MrY

This is and older Ford 1946 with a newer 350 Chevy engine Wieand intake and a Holley carburetor and HEI ignition only way to turn it off is to put the car in reverse and kill it quickly OR it will huff and puff for a minute and sometimes the engine runs backwards it feels like before it finally stops ..... WHAT is the cure ? What is the cause ? gunk in the combustion cambers that is glowing ? It should not get any more fuel or spark when ignition is shut off Pulling the heads off is the only solution ? Buying expensive fuel injection cleaner liquid is like to pouring money down the drain I feel like... Any advice or comment are appreciated thx

Ford 1946 Cab with Disc brakes in the front, Drums in the rear, Dual Master cylinder with a brake splitter / reducer . Today when I pulled the car out from storage I noticed it was pulling to the left while driving and brakes was extremely hot. brake juice was not release back but constantly pressure on. Pulled the wheel off and disc brake looks fine and cylinders move fine, but when I was going to bleed the brakes I noticed no brake fluid come out even if I pressed so hard on the pedal ( right side works just fine) but the left side does not get any fluid to be release. Anyone had problem with this brake line splitter before ? Not sure what you call it. ? See picture The two top lines in comes from the master cylinder one for the rear and one for the front and the 2 slated out put lines is what is going to the front disc brakes but I think the problem must be here ..... or what do you guys think??

What would happen if I remove the 2-3 top leaf of my front spring on a mercury/ford 1940 ? a) Will it soften the ride too much ? b) Will it lower the ride 2” ? Anyone played around with this before I start my trail-and-error altering.... I already have a reversed eye spring and a dropped 4" I-beam axel but I want it even lower ......

yeah I am afraid there is not easy fix or pour in the magic can of "snake oil" in the carburetor to fix it - have to do a top end rebuild or even swap out the heads when you are at it ie a half rebuild of the engine .... geeeee

I should add - I have changed spark plugs and messed around with the timing curve and different octane of gasoline and nothing helps

Every time I try to turn off the car after been driving it for a while (it's hot) I can not turn it off as a normal car - it cough and huff and puffs and sometimes it sounds like the engine spins backwards ..... I have to try it stop the car by quickly shift to Reverse gear from Park and it helps a little bit but it still dieseling pretty bad ..... I tried SeaFoarm cans in the carburetor maybe 5 cans but it doesn't do any improvement just smoke a lot. I been messing around with the carburetor to make sure no are sips thought to the cylinders and fuel the diesling So what is dieseling ? it's gunk in my heads that still ignites when I turn off the ignition (there should be no spark coming to ignite it) So the only fix is the 1) buy new heads and swap them out ? 2) take off the heads and steal rotor bush the combustion heads ? 3) or ?

3-ears are for constant power on 2-ears are for power on only when ignition is turned on

under the dash on a Lincoln Mark II / Premiere Capri 1956-1957 there is a Dash Fuse Panel See picture attached There wires goes in and are supposed to be connected with a either 3-ear or 2-ear plastic holder/connector that goes into the fuse block - if you see the picture you know what I mean and what I am looking for Where do I find this holders/connectors so I can attach a new power source wire to the existing fuse block All new fuse block you buy at the part store using flat connectors

Brand: Gladiator New Professional Grade 12V Solenoid fits Early Delco Starters Compatible with Chevrolet Austin Western Buick GMC Oldsmobile 1954-1962 Replaces 1118806 1119760 1119761 1119767 1119777 1119789 1119797

Oh here she is - out running errands - always parking far away from the crowd - don't want a door ding in the side like I have gotten on my daily driver

I finally got around to it - and changed the Starter Solenoid - I hate crawling around on the driveway but it as bothering me so much with this clicking - Bought a starter solenoid from Amazon for $32 and took the drive front wheel off to reach in under and it was done in an hour - I open up the old Solenoid to see what was wrong with it - and yes one contact was worn out - I guess you could turn it around and fiddle with it to get it going but for $32 I rather don't take a chance to have the problem again down the road. - It was easy to do - 4 bolts hold the solenoid on the starter and it slides right out - you just swab and match the electric wire from the old pol to the new pol - oh did I forget to tell you to disconnect the battery before and have jack stands to hold the car up while you under there ...... Now the car starts right up every time and I then to drive the car more now when I know it always starts

yeah - I am afraid this is the case - not an easy fix - that's why I see many hang a newer $25 unit under the dash - will decide what to do later this winter - checked the Shop manual and there is no hit of what could go wrong only says it has a liquid fluid in the tube....

I have a 1954 Buick Super where everything works BUT the Temp gauge It have never worked when I owned it. I can tell the engine has never been out and the wireline going from the engine block up the gauge is not bent or broken and look intact. ie no visual defect and all looks like it has never been removed or touch What usually goes wrong? I think there is some fluid inside the wireline - has it evaporated or what is usually the problem? Is there a fix? I could buy an after-market Temp gauge that comes with the wireline attached to it and hang it under the dash BUT I prefer to have the stock unit working ..... any Advice?

The battery and the pool are clean and nice - as well as the cables - looks like they have been replaced not too long ago - will see if I can get down there and pull out the solenoid box and flip the 2 terminal around 180 degrees - I recalled I did that on my 1958 Chevy Belair a couple of years ago and it should be pretty much the same - my only concern is that is so tight there on the driver's side with the battery box there and the steering column and exhaust manifold so it might not be accessible from the top but have to be put on a lift (which I don't have) and go from beneath

I have a fresh newly charged battery - try to start my 1954 Buick Super - (it's a push the gas pedal to the bottom start) and it just clicks and clicks about 10-20 times then it engages the starter and the car starts - what is the FIX ? starter solenoids? I am worried that every time I push the gas pedal down I also push the gas down the carburetor and I am flooding the car by doing it 10-20 times before the starter starts turning the engine around .... Has anyone had this problem before ? and what did you do? I looked at the starter and it's on the drives side down below the steering column and not easy to access without a hoised lift I guess These days mechanical shops charge an arm and a leg so I was hoping I could fix it myself ..... thx Erik in Ca

https://youtu.be/U_-ECgi1_ag how to remove a Roadmaster 94-96 dash instructions

Turns out I had to remove the dash and pull the Climate Control unit and when I touched the wires on the back the light came on and AC and Heat and FAN I put it back again and installed the dash again and then when I started the car again it was DEAD !! So I pulled the dash again and once again the lights for the display came on while wiggle it in the back I going to replace the CC unit with another one - I see they are for sale used and new on Ebay I also tested the power to the wires in the back and they have power etc going into the CC unit so there is something wrong with the motherboard / computer in the CC unit that sometimes work and sometimes dead. I also got the Service Repair manual 3 of them which I bought from Ebay but I think I found the problem

isn't it ironic -- you can troubleshot the car via the Heater Control module -- (but mine does not light on or turn on so I am out of luck)

Found the manuals on Ebay ($80) .... but was hoping someone here would have the 1-2 pages I am looking for to share with me .....

Found out they closed down the library in my town so I have not found the pagers for 1994 Roadmaster diagnostic manual 2 I been fiddling with the fuses that runs the AC/Heat on the fuse box panel and the relays in the engine compartment for the AC etc but no luck in getting any sign of life in the Heater/AC/Fan control module - also been driving it around to hope it would just by chance start working again like it has in the past (like I said sometimes it comes to life and sometimes it's dead like now)

https://carmanualsclub.com/buick-roadmaster-owners-and-maintenance-manuals-pdf/ Fuse 17, 40 and 42 would be checked

Have not tried hitting the dash but it's worth a try, Everything else electric in the car works and this only happens now and then all of a sudden while driving it comes alive so there is some shortcut somewhere just trying to figure out where ... and what fuse or relay is giving power to the CCP Driving me crazy ... in the summer I need AC and in the winter I need HEAT and this CCP controls it all (and many diagnostic codes etc) thx

I have a 94 Buick Roadmaster wagon and my CCP (climate control panel) goes dark (ie no power to the display) and I can not turn on the defroster or AC or Heat What could be the problem? how do I troubleshoot? some days it works and some days not (of course it's not working when I need it the most ie defroster) Sounds to me like there is a short somewhere Where is the fuse or relay that powers the CCP ? See pic when it's working - when not you don't see any GREEN and can not start or adjust the FAN / HEAT / AC

Usually the car sits for 2 week I having this long cranking problem getting it started - if sits for less than 3 day no problem. I been considering putting in a fuel pump to push / prime the carb before I start it - still keeping the stock mechanical fuel pump. But I don't have a lift to see where is a good place to place it - I been looking at some picture I have of the car and it looks like there is only a flex rubber fuel line at rear tank and one at the front suspension and between there is' all a steel line Where do you guys who done it place it .... cut the steel line at the frame and reconnect with rubber fuel lines ? or put it at the rear between the tank outlet and the steel long fuel line tube ? and Which fuel pump is better than the other .... I have bad experience with the golden one that sized up and stopped pumping when it got hot and then if the car sat for 15 min it started to work again and I could get out on the freeway to get the car stop with no gas in carb I thought it was dirt in the fuel tank cause if I took the fuel line at the carb and blow it with my mouth (yes that is what I did) and I could hear the bubbles in the tank and after that it started every time .... yes because I blow and cooled down the fuel pump so it could spin for another 15 min .... I ended up selling the 'stupid' car and past on the problem to the new owner who changed the fuel tank and still same problem and then he decided to test the fuel pump that seamed to be working ... but he found out after running for a while it just stopped pumping and it was seized up .... if you waited a while it started to work again for 15 min .....

“It never rains in California” they sing -- yeah right it’s been flooded lately. Took the Big Green out today for a spin, the first cruise in 2023. My new invention to avoid the continuing cranking was a $1 bottle from Dollar store + $1 plastic tube Which I put down the carburetor while I started cranking I started squirting /pumping down gasoline in the carb from the drivers seat until it ran by itself and the fuel pump had filled the line with new gasoline and was pumping on it's own. No more wearing out the battery.