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Everything posted by MrY

  1. I read somewhere that I should turn the lock screw clockwise 1/8 - 1/4 and then take it for a drive, If needed adjust another 1/8 - 1/4 and take it for a drive ...
  2. Hi I have an old 1956 Buick 46R with power steering box but there is a terrible about 4-5 inch slack in the steering wheel if the car is park and I wiggle it left and right without the pit man arm get engaged and move. It's no fun driving the car on the freeway cause I end up sitting and wiggling steering wheel left and right to keep the car go straight and it get tiresome ...... The steering rag joint has been replace and the next to tackle is the steering box I guess. I see there is a lock nut with a flat head screw in the middle of the X on the steering box top I guess this is for adjusting it but I have never done this before on any car Can anyone give me some hints on what to do ? Loosening the lock nut and Turning it down make it tighter ? I guess I want the gears to come closer to remove any gap or slack..... Please advice before I try or mess up something See picture of my steering box and locknut and screw. thx
  3. On each side next to the spark plugs are 2 freeze plugs about the size of a Quater I have one leaking and do not need to buy a hole freeze plug kit for $49.00 Thought the local parts store must have universal expansion plugs that would fit. Anyone know what size it is before I start removing it ? It has started leaking water and I need to remove it and plug in a new one. I measure it to be about 1 1/16 so I guess the plug should be maybe 1 1/8 before you drive it in ... I think I can see 1 1/8 on one of the plugs .... Anyone done this job recently and recall ?
  4. See pic 1) Left one - has a a shield in the center 2) Right one - has a sail boat in the center 3) Bottom one - has a shield and helmet anyone know what car and year they come from and even better if you have any Of then for sale thx
  5. yeah I think you are right here is a Passenger Front Door Glass for 66-70 Buick Riviera 2 Door
  6. I my new Buick Riviera -64 (see pic) has one piece side windows ie the Went window is removed and replace with a big ONE piece window. I never seen that before and I been trying to google it but found no one who makes them or where they got it from ..... Anyone know who sells them or where to get them from ?
  7. Mine problem was wear/play in the center link bushing that attach to the pitman steering arm but the Idler arm bushing was just fine Center link for Buick 1963-1965 are the same but there is no new parts made and your have to refurbish your old one , (NOTE: for the Buick A-body they make new one) Sent it out to Rare Parts, they just don't do ONE side but have to do both a $314 plus shipping for return https://rareparts.com/about-us After this is fix, I have to do another test drive to see if problem is gone, or more tie rods need to be replace, but from what we could tell when car was on a drive up lift and one man wiggle the steering wheel, we could only see wear/play at one place (ie center link bushing attached to pitman arm)
  8. Yeah we checked out the rear suspension yesterday when it was up on a lift see pic on how the rear bags are mounted on a Riviera I had the center support bearing replace cause there as noise coming from there Had this done on another Bag -63 Riviera I had in the past as well But the BIG problem is the wandering steering which we tracked down to the center link Tie Rod that goes on the Pitman arm there was 2mm pay in either direction but the IDLER arm Tie rod is firm like new ..... The bad new is you can not buy new replacement center link for the E-body (which you can do for Buick A-body) So I have to take this one off and send it in to Rare Parts suspension in Stockton Ca .... It is a hard work out, crawling around on a drive way and tie rods that is snug like it's welded on I am too old to craw around like this but my shop does not want to tie up a lift for 1-2 week to have mine removed and sent away for rebuild so I have to do it on my drive way where it can sit for a week or two ... awhaaaaaaaaaaaaaa !!! thx
  9. ok, I have sent out some request for Buick Riviera parts guy, Like you said, try to find a used one and have it rebuilt and then swapped I saw there is a rebuild shop Rare Parts in Stockton CA, like 2hour from San Jose or http://fcrcmachine.com/rare-parts-center-link-refurbish-service-1963-1965-buick-riviera-26781/ want $260 for one and want your core in return Also I learned today, my car is NOT a A-body so I can stop looking for those sites since it would not fit my E-body -64 Riviera. Here is a good Buick Site explaining all GM body styles .... https://classicbuicks.com/shop/body-rubber-hood-pads/gm-body-style-chart/
  10. Iinteresting discussion and reading .... so my -64 Riviera is not an A-body.... I do have my steering set behind the A-arm and not like one of the pictures seen previous in this tread which show it in front of the A-arms. Center Links – often called Drag Links – are the critical connection between the driver side and passenger side steering. The Idler Arm is one of the most commonly worn steering components. Poorly designed joints from the factory quickly loosen and cause excessive play in the steering. *1964-1967 GM “A” Body cars use one of two center link designs, measuring the diameter is the easiest way to determine which is needed (13/16″ or 7/8″) What are they talking about regarding (13/16″ or 7/8″) ? Is that the hole for the Idler bolt to go into or ? I just removed the Center Link P-rod/tie rod from the pitman arm and it is not even close to (13/16″ or 7/8″) more like 5/8 or 16mm when I measure at the top of the Coned threaded bolt on the center line P-rod that goes into the pitman arm .... so it much smaller that (13/16″ or 7/8″) I am confused .... I was going to order them from this POL but they too want to know if I have (13/16″ or 7/8″) https://www.performanceonline.com/1964-72-Buick-A-body-Steering-Centerlink/ Last resort is to have mine removed and sent for rebuild ... but I don't think my shop like to have my car on a lift for 1-2 week while they rebuild mine original center link so I hope to find one to bring with me when I go to the shop so they can do the swap in one day......
  11. I just came back from the repair shop and they showed me the problem, there is play in the tie rod that is attached to the CENTER LINK that is attached to the power steering pitman arm .... the opposite side IDLE arm are tight and fine so, the only way to fix it to get a new Center link with the tie rod attached to it or make a bushing to remove the play in the pitman arm / tie rod but have to removed it to see if it is fixable or have to replace it .... I guess this is the weekend job me $44 for a new one but they made to types for 1964-72 Buick A-body Steering Center Link 7/8" and 13/16" has to know which one I need for mine -64
  12. I understand when you mess with Airbags and Hydralic ride hight suspension your are in for something else but those cars supposed to ride like new cars as well if you do it right ...... I had more than +20 cars with air bags and variable ride height and half of them with 20 inch rims and wide tires and never had any problems like this, I had 2 Buick Riviera 63 with bags and 20 inch before and all went straight down the road at 70mph. So this one definitely have some other issues .... The transmission shop i dropped it off yesterday just called me .... they said the idle arm and bushing looks ok but the center arm that is attached to the pitman arm from the steering box is worn out where the pitman arm attach and needs to be replaced it, i need to source it from another car cause this is not a spare part you buy from you local parts dealer i was told ......
  13. Hi I just bought a new car online Buick Riviera 1964, it looks good 20 feet way like most cars, what the seller did not disclose was that the car does not drive straight down the road. Any bump or track in the road the car start to swivel right and left and I have to adjust with the steering wheel not to fly off the road. There is no vibration from tires or steering wheel and when put the front up on jacks I don't find any loose or worn P joint or steering components what I can feel while wiggling the wheel back and fort and up and down. Steering box feels tight and no leaks and tires have air and are Radial tires but it feel like I am riding old Diagonal tire .... Anyone had the same problem ? What could it be ? The car is a road danger as of now ..... Any advice would be helpful thx Erik
  14. I went out and looked today and there is no such switch on my break pedal or around there but there is a cruise control switch that have an arm following and sliding on the break pedal so I guess if the car has cruise control then there is a different setup
  15. I have not break lights on my 1964 Riviera where is the break light switch ? I tried to google it but came up empty .... Where to start looking ... inside under the dash ? or in the engine compartment ? or under the car on the frame rails ? It's my weekend project - thought I asked for some pointers before I get down on my knees .... I thought I start by check the power on the switch and that the other pool show current when I step on the break pedal .... thx
  16. I think I found it https://rivowners.org/features/Ev_Stats/colortrim/options.html FISHER BODY NUMBER PLATE COOING (Established 11-22-63) ACCESSORY OPTION CODE Group No. 1 E EZI Glass All W Windshield Only X Power Window (Except Vents) N Power Window (Vents Only) G Power Tailgate Window F 4-Way Power Seat (Bench) T 4-Way Power Seat (Bucket) Y 6-Way Power Seat (Bench) R Locker-Luggage S Automatic Trunk Release M Vacuum Operated Door Locks U Luggage Locker D Power Top K Split Seat Group No. 2 2A Front Seat Rubber 2J Rear Seat Rubber 2Y Two-Tone Paint 2H Delete Heater 2K Air Conditioner 2D Air Conditioner Modification 2L 4-Speed Transmission 2Z Automatic Transmission 2P Back-up Lights 2R Rear Seat Speaker Group No. 3 3E Lower Crash pad 3W 3B 3S 3V Group No. 4 4F Remote Mirror Group No. 5 5Z Seat Belts 5W Seat Belts With Retractor 5K Door Guard Moldings (4747) https://rivowners.org/features/Ev_Stats/colortrim/63-65.html 1964 RIVIERA 1964 RIVIERA CODES EXTERIOR COLORS CODES TRIMS A Regal Black 601 Blue Vinyl C Arctic White 602 Silver Vinyl D Silver Cloud 603 Fawn Vinyl F Marlin Blue 607 Red Vinyl H Wedgewood Blue 608 Black Vinyl J Surf Green *610 Green Cloth & Vinyl K Sunburst Yellow *611 Blue Cloth & Vinyl L Claret Mist *613 Fawn Cloth & Vinyl N Coral Mist *621 Blue Vinyl P Teal Mist *624 White Vinyl R Desert Beige *628 Black Vinyl S Bronze Mist *629 Saddle Vinyl T Tawny Mist V Granada Red W Diplomat Blue
  17. Hi all, trying to find info where I can decode my body tag found in the engine compartment, especially the ACC extras ..... see pic attached ..... Is there any good online place that hold the info I am looking for thx Erik in Ca
  18. hmmm my carpet is glued to the floor in the trunk, before I pull it, anyone done this before ? I thought you have to drop the tank on a Buick 54 55 56 to reach the fuel sender which is on the top of the thank. All I can see in the trunk is a brown wire going down the floor to the tank sender ie the wire that does to the dash gas gauge I still think the float is gone or disconnect inside the tank only way to find out is to drop the tank .......
  19. Yes it is a Buick 1955 Special, and I am under the impression as previous comment that the fuel gauge is working fine and the problem is with the sender in the tank. I see previous owner has made a new wire for the ground from the sender to the frame but that did not fix it So as previous comment point out it is probably inside the tank and I need to drop the tank and check if the float is detached. If the float is gone the arm would be down all the time as of it was empty, just as the gauge is showing. So now I need to drive the car until it is dry of gas in the tank (bring a spare gas reserve) and then dropping it would be easier ....
  20. My tank meter not working ! Just filled 10 gallon and it shows nothing. Where do I start looking ? What ohm should the wire behind the gauge read ? Any one know. Any one had this problem before ? When ignition turn off - then the gas pointer diapers When ignition turn ON - the the gas pointer goes to E (empty) When I go in the trunk and disconnect the brown wire that comes from the tank sender - then the gas pointer goes quickly to F (full). I have found the ground wire and ran a long wire direct to negative on battery but still stuck on E and I cleaned the ground surface the wire/bolt from tank negative taps into the frame but still stuck on E I hate not knowing how much gas I have before the car empty and die on me.....
  21. Hi again .... I never heard of Fluid Film before So I did a search for it and found a youtube video test about under coating for cars or metal Flex Seal I would think would be worst ever but in came in as 2nd place I wish they had tested OSPHO as well but they did not ..... Motor oil was WORST even made the rust more
  22. Can you paint over Ospho? Before applying, use a wire brush or wire wheel to remove loose paint, rust scales, dirt, oil, and anything else accumulated on the surface. After doing this, apply a coat of Ospho and let it dry (overnight). Once the surface is dry, you can paint over it. What does Ospho do to rust? When applied to rusted surfaces, OSPHO causes iron oxide (rust) to chemically change to iron phosphate - an inert, hard substance that turns the metal black. Where rust is exceedingly heavy, two coats of OSPHO may be necessary to thoroughly penetrate and blacken the surface to be painted.
  23. Regarding used motor oil, I grew up on a farm and my dad used old motor oil to all kinds of purpose, like preserving old agriculture machines like plows for next season, he sprayed oil on the bare metal but as I said before dust and dirt got attached to it as well so I do not know if it is worth the trade off .....?
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