classic_cruiser

I found an article from 1962 saying it burned to the ground: https://www.newspapers.com/article/the-south-bend-tribune-crystal-ballroom/28230864/

Depending next what sealed beams you have now, there are direct LED drop-ins available. For example, this site lets you search by vehicle: https://www.headlightexperts.com I did an H4656/H4651 conversion on my old 1980 Sunbird a few years ago and it was plug and play, but they were hard to find and selection was limited. The replacement LED lights today are far more advanced than the ones I got just a few years ago.

Are there any identifying marks on the backside?

Dave, it was great to meet you and see the old White running! Definitely draws a crowd! -Terry

I have one of the older Shelter Logic round top 12 x 10 x 20 portable garages, and it’s had quite a bit of snow on it many times, survived many winters here in PA. The round top makes most of the snow slide right off. You definitely have to use the corkscrew anchors to prevent the wind from moving it. The covering has to be kept tight too. As for the garage is the original post, seems to me like it’s designed to be easily flipped open or closed. I wonder how that pivot is anchored, and if the open end can be secured so wind can’t simply blow it right open again.

The original poster hasn’t been on this site since February 5, 2019…

Out of curiosity, why did that “Please introduce yourself” thread get locked?

Where did they move the fuel filler to? I’d be curious if there is a way to get into the trunk space…perhaps from inside the rear seat?

This one has a regular opening trunk: https://www.motorcarcompany.com/1938-buick-roadmaster-4dr-phaeton-convertible--model-80-c--for-sale-at-motor-car-company-in-san-diego-california-.html

Just a minor correction here: cars with classic plates in PA still do require annual inspection. They do not need emissions inspection though. The cars with an antique plate require neither. See last page of the current application form. https://www.dot.state.pa.us/public/dvspubsforms/BMV/BMV Fact Sheets/fs-ant.pdf I had thought the form also indicated mileage limits, but I see they are no longer here. Only the “once a week” occasional use limitation is still indicated though. So I suppose it is still ok to take one really really long drive, right?

Here is a brand new aftermarket version of that grille: https://www.carparts.com/details/Chevrolet/C1500/Replacement/Grille_Assembly/1995/Silverado/KIT-053100-12.html?TID=gglpla&origin=&utm_source=google&utm_medium=pla&utm_campaign=11726351894&&&gclid=Cj0KCQjwu-KiBhCsARIsAPztUF37VAsja0BmUTgD-5VIYL1W8yDRL_1rT_IUeEzlDzud80nr3cet_MIaArjjEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds Another possible option to try, for small repair areas, is one of those liquid chrome markers. Molotow makes the ones I use, available at craft stores like Hobby Lobby or Michaels.

A few months ago I was looking for synthetic gear lube for my truck, found the same bottle online at Advance Auto and also at Walmart. Since the two were identical, and Walmart was a few dollars cheaper, I ordered from WalMart for pickup from store. I get the notice from Walmart to pick it up, but they had an alternate pick up location: the Advance Auto store right across from the Walmart. It was rather odd walking into the Advance Auto store, showing them my WalMart pickup ticket, and them handing me the gear lube I bought but they also sell, and I paid less than Advance would have sold it to me.

Looks to me like MS rating came out in 1964, was revised in 1968, and was obsolete in 1972 -from Table A-1 in the link Bryan G. posted.

I’m curious, have you been there yourself at any time in the last decade? I’m mostly curious because the article mentions the cars are across the street. Looking on google maps, there is now a rather large scrap metal recycling facility - Ridgeside Recycling - across the street from the address they mention in the article. The recycling facility seems to have opened around 2011, 2 years after that article was written. Makes me wonder if he sold off the entire property to the recycling center…

Another factor which could come into play here is the amount of traffic in the area where you live…. I’m in SE PA and I think it’s more likely that any daily I have these days will be killed by another driver than by rust, even with all the brine they spray on the roads in this area. I had an 87 cavalier I had managed to put nearly 300,000 on in 25 years, never needed much work and it was simple to maintain, just kept after it and kept it clean. But when it started to get too eaten by rust, common maintenance items started to get hard to find, and all the local boneyard inventory dried up, I switched to a newer commuter. That newer one got totaled for some small creases in the unibody by getting rear-ended at a stop light, and even though it was in near mint condition they valued it at next to nothing. With the crazy way people drive now, you almost have to treat any daily driver like a disposable pie plate in this area. My approach when the time comes will be to get a 7 year old well maintained commuter and hope I get another 7 out of it, every 7 years.

Hi all, I have a Stromberg aav-26 #205-9 that I had rebuilt and started to use on my 37 series 60 Cadillac. I found that the fuel bowl would completely drain in 2 or 3 days of sitting, with no visible leakage on the outside. Found that it was dumping the gas down the intake, through the cylinders, and winding up eventually in the oil. I took it apart (again, for the 3rd time…) and found the power valve - although the spring works in it- leaks like a sieve, air can easily be sucked through it. It is marked with #53 stamped on top. I cannot seem to find anyone who sells a new Stromberg power valve with this number. Anyone have a source for a new one? Or is there a way to disassemble these and refurbish or rebuild the old power valve? Or can a different number power valve be substituted? Thanks for the input! Terry

I thought the swap meet and show is the 14th?

There’s an Illinois plate on it, and the area code is IL. But still, it could physically be elsewhere.

Looks like it was this one: 1959 Eldorado

^YES, exactly this. I’ve often thought in recent years, if they were to condense the fields to only allow actual parts in the swap meet spaces, all of it might fit in the green field alone. The numerous empty spots reminds me of going to the mall and seeing so many closed up storefronts… like it’s going out of business.

I have my series 60 rear vent windows out, and did a very quick crude measurement with a tape measure, see attached… the 46” may not be far off. I think diagram shows the rubber piece laid flat, the “circles” in that diagram are depicting the top and bottom post holes in the rubber for the window pivot, and the detail enlargement of the end shows how it is molded. Because the window will swing out on the rearward edge and swing in on the leading edge, the rubber is on opposite sides of the center line. I need to figure this out myself because I need to order the same seals! Terry

From my experience, I can tell you every used vehicle I have tried to title in PA has been a royal pain unless the documentation is exact. That includes a boat and a boat trailer. I had to track that boat and the trailer back through 4 owners to find the one who happened to have the titles, the bills of sale were not accepted. PA is even getting pretty fussy in that the name of the owner printed on the title must be the one signing it over to you on the back. Titles that were signed over to another owner in the past, but not transferred into that owner’s name, get flagged for “title flipping”. You will have a much easier experience if the seller has the title printed in their name and they are the ones who sign it over to you. In the rare case that the car is being purchased from a state that does not title, a current valid registration from that state in the seller’s name will work with some red tape. PA will also make their own independent determination of the value of the car, and if it your stated value is only marginally lower they will make you justify it. They want every tax cent they can get.

Kean, it is this number here… from your picture, it looks like 205-3 (1939) or 205-8 (1941). 205 is Cadillac. Terry

Thank you Jon, any of those might very well be the case here! I appreciate your insight! I’m leaning towards your last option, only because I can find no stampings at all on the air horn, and the old 37 Cadillac engine it is on came from a collector of Cadillac parts from pre-wwII…. It may have been “frankensteined” together from multiple parts. It’s been apart before, because it came with new idle screws in it and a new looking accel pump that oddly was missing the accel pump spring. Based on the pictures of the accel pump housing, would you agree there should be no check ball in there? I’m inclined to keep tinkering to see if I can get it to run better. I have some feelers out on a period-correct Stromberg, so I figure it can’t hurt to keep messing with this one. Terry [edited] I’ve also just recently noticed that the Buick AAV-16 looks to have an air horn like this one, although it should be stamped.

I’ve tried to read that number, even used a white tire lettering stick after cleaning it several times… best I can tell is that number is 24539, but I’m not sure if that 2nd to last digit is really a “3”…