Flatee

I'm rebuilding a 1961 Carter AFB 3108S for cousin's 1961 Dodge Polara 413, and the rebuild kit I received has a new check-ball and weight instead of the factory type needle for the accelerator pump discharge valve. The ball and weight stacked are the same length as the factory needle. To clarify, I'm referring to the vertical valve that rests under the accelerator pump jet housing and not the accelerator pump inlet check valve located in the pump well wall. Is it acceptable to use the ball and weight instead of the needle design? I hesitate to reuse the needle because it has a groove worn into it, and I'd have to special order the needle. I recall running into this issue with a Holley many years ago and ended up using the ball and weight without issue, but I wanted more input. Thanks.

CAR FOUND

I sent you a message. Thanks.

I was looking for a complete car but just picked one up. I do need a few parts for it. Are you parting out a car?

A good friend of mine is trying to locate a 1956 Plymouth or 1956 Dodge two-door car (post or hardtop) of any model and engine for restoration. He is interested in one that is complete, has no to minimal rust, and preferably is driveable, but he is interested in a project or an older/partial restoration too. He is willing to ship nationwide if necessary. If you have one or know of one, please message me. Thanks.

A good friend of mine is trying to locate a 1956 Plymouth or 1956 Dodge two-door car (post or hardtop) of any model and engine for restoration. He is interested in one that has no to minimal rust and preferably is driveable, but he is interested in a project or an older/partial restoration. He is willing to ship nationwide if necessary. If you have one or know of one, please message me. Thanks.

I don't find any active listing on Amazon. I find one listing, but the printing is discontinued with no used copies being sold.

Looks like a rare book. From the few page photos I've found, I'd like to find a copy. I couldn't talk you into scanning yours into a PDF, could I?

Hopefully I don't get popped for linking to another forum, but I came across this free legal scan of the "You're the Dynaflow Doctor" training manual. I'd upload the PDF here, but the file type isn't allowed.

Transmission found. Thanks for the help.

Engines found. Thanks for the assistance.

I'll check it out. Thanks.

Excellent response, Joe. Thanks. This is exactly what I was hoping for. I registered on Ames and have already found a treasure trove of information; I'll be up to 4 a.m. reading threads! Already got a lot of my questions answered, so I think this weekend I'll pull the trigger and buy the 389. Joe, Are you on Ames? What's your user ID?

I'm in search of solid places to find accurate, detailed information (parts interchangeability, rebuilding, performance tips, etc.) on the Pontiac 389. A search of this forum didn't gain me many hits. Specifically, I have the opportunity to buy a complete 1959 389. I've been able to piece together a decent understanding from multiple websites (reverse-flow cooling, bellhousing options, etc.), but I haven't found a website or forum dedicated to the 389 or at least with a large population of members discussing the 389. Any resources are appreciated.

I have a couple project cars that need engines. I'm looking for a complete/nearly complete 322 and a 1957 - 1961 364 or 401 engine for rebuilding somewhere in Colorado or Wyoming. Please message me if you have one. Thanks.

I'm looking for a 1955 - 1965 GM Saginaw 3-speed manual transmission for rebuilding. I prefer one without overdrive. It will have a cast iron case and look similar to the photo. The main case will have part number 3743368, the side cover 3741357 or 3731911, and the tail housing 3741456 or 3787067.

Found the engines I need. Thanks AACA. I have a couple project cars that need engines. I'm looking for a complete/nearly complete 322 and a 1957 - 1961 364 or 401 engine for rebuilding somewhere in Colorado or Wyoming. Please message me if you have one. Thanks.

Thanks for the input and for the parts suppliers.

I dug out the Dynaflow from the parts shed, pulled the torsion ball, and miced the yoke ID. For posterity: 1.2185" diameter x 28 spline. The propeller shaft diameter will obviously be slightly smaller for clearance, but I don't have a propeller shaft to mic (hence my original question).

Does anyone know the diameter and spline count of a 1956 Dynaflow yoke? Put differently, what is the diameter and spline count of the front of the driveshaft? Also, did this diameter and spline count change throughout the years of Dynaflow production?

Thanks for the contact. I'll give him a call if others over in the Buick section don't get to it first.

That's what dial indicators, micrometers, feeler gauges, thrust bearing/washer shims, and different thickness thrust bearings/washers are for. If one is only supposed to use NOS parts, I guess the vast majority of transmission and engine rebuilders and manufacturer-published repair manuals have been doing it incorrectly since before 1908. Many different, valid roads to lead to the same place.

Mainly so I don't have $5,000 in a rebuild. An ebay search shows most people have hard parts priced as if they were made of gold. A quick search finds a clutch drum for $160, input shaft $71, servo piston $45, etc. If the transmission has wear or has been botched up by previous rebuilds, buying parts will add up quickly. I can get Dynaflow cores locally for free or under $50 when they come up (I'm picking one up tomorrow for $20). Nothing wrong with reusing good used hard parts such as input shafts, drums, etc. If you know where I can get cheap hard parts, I'm all ears.

Thanks, Mike; I didn't see that forum, so it makes perfect sense to post there, which I've done. I'll ask the moderators to delete this one.

I'm new to the forum but have been getting a lot of assistance reading through threads the past few weeks. Reading through all the tech threads with "Dynaflow" in the title doesn't get me the info for which I'm hunting. I recently picked up a 1956 Special hardtop coupe project with a virgin 322 and Dynaflow. The engine has some miles on it and looks like it was parked after blowing a head gasket. The cylinders mic to where they'll need a .030" overbore, to give you an idea of the miles on the engine and transmission. I'm planning ahead for when I rebuild the transmission. In my experience rebuilding TH350s, TH400s, and Torqueflites, it often requires two or three cores to make one solid rebuild. I won't be ready to start the transmission rebuild for some time, so I'd like to start collecting any core transmissions I find locally but don't want to collect ones that won't net me any parts for the '56. Does anyone know what year Dynaflows would have the most internal parts interchange with a 1956? To clarify, I'm not asking what year transmissions can be swamped into a 1956 car in place of a 1956 transmission but strictly about internal parts. The repair manual reprint I have covers 1955 - 1958 Dynaflows suggesting the three years are very similar. Should I stick to collecting 1955 - 1958 transmissions, or will many parts from pre-1955 and post-1958 still interchange with a 1956? I'm talking about parts front anything like pumps, clutch drums, planets, internal shifter linkage/shafts, to valve body springs, etc. Thanks for the help.