John2012

That particular model came with the knucklehead V8.

The ad has been taken down for sure. Between 1/31 and 2/4 the car would not show up in a search for a Buick Wildcat; however. the it would show up under original link until today. The search functions on FB Marketplace not the best. I was tempted to look at it, but talked myself out of it.

It looks like the ad was taken down. Hopefully sold to somebody who will give it a good home.

Looks like a straight car. It looks like at best a driver where one should inspect prior to purchase as the paint shows evidence of shine in some spots and severe fading in others. It would help to include some interior pictures to assess the condition of the upholstery.

The high bid for this car is $22,000 and it is still available. This has to be extremely rare given the low mileage, body style, color, and condition. Perhaps a bid of $26,000 might do it; add the 10 percent commission, sales tax, and transport so one is in over $30,000. If I really wanted it, I'd pay it, but keep it for a long time. https://www.mecum.com/lots/1101384/1972-buick-lesabre/?aa_id=504229-0

A great find for somebody who is looking for something close to this car. For example, it has to be a 4 dr hardtop, early 60's Buick in driver plus condition that needs nothing. This one fits the bill, and the color can only help, not hurt the sale. I'd love to have it, but the stable is full and am not willing to part with any.

I also recall the car being for sale earlier in the year. I believe for somewhere in the $8K range but cannot attest to what mileage was represented. No doubt it is a flip.

When adding refrigerant the low side would increase and nothing on the high side.

I've removed the two hex bolts and the expansion valve will not come out. I've tried prying, pulling, PB Blaster and applying heat from the heat gun. I even hooked the pipes back up to the expansion valve and used bungee cords to apply constant pulling pressure for over a week. Still no luck. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks.

So here is how you do it and it is not hard: 1) Remove the wires to the solenoid 2) You will need 1/4 inch drive 1/2 inch 6 point socket, 1/4 inch fixed head ratchet, and a medium to long sized pry bar. 3) Put the socket on a 1/4 drive fixed head ratchet and place on the bolt that is fastened to the starter - not the block. 4) Swing the ratchet close to the exhaust manifold and insert the pry bar between the two. 5) Using your right hand to hold down on the socket and with your left hand use the pry bar to pry against the handle of the ratchet and with little effort torque broke. This was done on my back. Also, other recommendations would be to spray the bolt with penetrating lubricant and loosen the two bolts holding the starter. Once loosened, start tapping the starter which should help free the bolt. Then tighten the two bolts and proceed as described above.

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1975-buick-lesabre-custom-convertible/

Looks like the same car that was on Bring a Trailer where the top bid was $8,945. You don't always get top dollar on BaT.

It has been years ago since I bought one for my 60 Buick. It was a common 4 terminal electrical part with a hot, switch, accessory (starter) and a ground terminal.

Thanks to all. I have changed starters on 455 Electras and a prior 430 Wildcat. All were two bolts. This one could be original with the 3rd bolt holding a bracket bolted to the starter and block. Needless to say it was disappointing to loosen the 2 bolts and the starter would not budge. I was able to get a 1/2 inch socket on the starter bolt with a 1/4 inch drive breaker bar. Unfortunately I cannot break torque, and I don't want to risk rounding the bolt. I also tried getting a ratcheting wrench on the block bolt, but did not have luck. All bolts were really tight. This thread on V8 Buick has some pictures. https://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/can’t-remove-starter-third-bolt-hidden.358575/

Does anybody have a recommendation on how to remove this bolt? I saw one posting on V8 Buick, but I still can't access it. Helplful insight would be the size (1/2 or 9/16), is it better to go after the bolt in the block, should the tool of choice be a socket or a wrench. If a socket what size and drive, and if a wrench what size and do you have to bend it. I have changed starters before and never had to deal with the 3rd bolt. Thanks.!!!

As painful as it was, I always flew or drove out to see the car I was buying to ensure everything was in order. For example, I like to meet people at their house, check titles, addresses, and conduct random google searches. Of course, the condition of car is important. The only way I would buy sight unseen is from sellers who have an sustained excellent reputation on this site and others. Geez, look that dash and the clarity of the instrumentation.

This looks like a good deal. I thought the $19K would be the opening bid as the paint, interior, chome, underneath and engine look good. https://www.ebay.com/itm/204452947853?hash=item2f9a58678d:g:RwIAAOSwwbdk9-vRd

The devil is in the details. Could very well be a 50K car. The fake wood grain at the bottom of the dash looks really good and I can read it without having to zoom. I've seen so many that they are cracked and start turning white. The drivers seat is probably ripped. In the 2000 timeframe, I saw a 28K 1968 Wildcat and the seat was ripped. Either enjoy and drive as is, or between a paint job, interior work and a rear bumper I would not expect to break even.

No surprise that it moved fast. Looked like a legit 33K car despite the missing cruise control switch and who knows about the gas gauge which looked like a I don't know what. The only minus is the molding running down the sweapstar. Perhaps a better example will surface in 15 or more years. Good luck to the buyer.

I jumped the horn and it works plus I have power from the steering wheel wire and a good ground. Since the horn did work with some effort as in pressing in certain spots with force, I believe the issue to be with the horn button. The question is how do you test it and change it? Also, I do see some other 6th gen Riv horn pads for sale. While they look the same from the front, they are different in the back. My Riv has tilt and telescopic, Thanks

Assuming it was sold, there is alot of $upside$ for a flip. I've seen this go for upwards of $12K as this one did look like a legitimate low mileage car.

It's been on Mecum before and was subsequently listed by a dealer. If history repeats itself, expect it to go for somewhere in the $40's.

I'm pretty sure this car was on a TV show about 10 years ago where 2 people (Mark Hyman and Peter Klutt) assessed its value and offered to buy the car. The 3rd person (Donnie Gould) would try to convince the seller that he would do better by putting the car in an auction at no reserve. I do forget the pricing but how often do you see a Super on TV!

Looks like an genuine car as it could be all original. It would be nice to see the drivers seat and armrest.

Having owned four of them, mine were always drums in the rear. The body fillers on this one were nicer than the $38,000 Riv which had that "extra seam" in the rear and front.