R8RS

Tom - do you have a set with retractors in black? For the 64? Steve ROA# 16044

I have a 64, and the high speed for the AC works, and ONLY high speed, and nothing works for the heat/defrost. Also, when I use the AC, again, only high speed works... I get blast-furnace heat coming out of the vent at the rear of the center console while cold air blows out of the dash vents. I don't have a clue where to begin. Sorry to hijack your question, Parccent65. Any thoughts on how to troubleshoot and fix this dilemma?

makes sense, Tom. I know he tried to make it as inexpensive as possible for me and that's probably why he figured the crank didn't need to go to the machine shop. And here we are. Thanks for your help to everyone!

Tom, yes it had to be bored .040 and I bought an entire Egge rebuild kit, so it was all done fresh.

Bernie - we have not done that. I see you're not too far from me, in Brockport. I am in Syracuse.

Hi Tom - I trusted my mechanic in that it would be done correctly, but in order to balance the motor the machine shop would also need the crank, correct? The crank stayed at my mechanic's garage.

Tom, we did remove the fan belts & run the engine, and it still vibrated. Steve 9236, not to sound funny but the severity fluctuates. I am going to take a look and make sure the harmonic balancer is not a 364 and that it definitely is a 401/425 balancer. Pretty certain, but just in case.

it's isolated to the engine, correct.

Ronnie - we did do that as well.

I have already gotten advice on this topic, for instance, flexplate in proper position, harmonic balancer, and so on. But I am going to try one more time, just in case there's some longshot at a fix. I bought my 64 Riv a few years ago and the motor ran but needed a rebuild for sure, so I had it rebuilt. Prior to the rebuild, there was a motor vibration, so I thought once it's rebuilt, the vibration will be gone. Well, that's not the case. I am down to... do I send it out to Centerville Auto Repair over the winter to have it pulled apart and rebuilt again? Or is there something I am missing? I'm not made of money, but I also want the motor to run vibration-free. We have ruled out drivetrain, etc., it is definitely the motor. Thank you! Steve Napoli

I have seemingly the same issue, and we are still trying to figure it out. My motor is a 64 425 and it had 150k miles on it, and it had vibration at various RPM's, and it isn't drivetrain. I had the motor completely rebuilt and vibration is still there. We have replaced the flexplate and the harmonic balancer, and it still vibrates, and yes, the flexplate is bolted in the correct spot. My mechanic tells me he saw something online regarding the intake manifold possibly causing it. I am at a loss.

How would you like to get paid? You may email me directly if you like, goraidrs@gmail.com Steve Napoli

what parts do you have for the 64 Riv?

For the record, IMO, this virus we were gifted was the much larger scale "Pearl Harbor" from the Chinese Communist Party to the world. That won't be reported as such, however!

I was just talking with my mother, who was 10 years old at the time. She remembers listening to the President's "infamy" speech! She was saying how they didn't have a phone, but they had a radio! She also said how listening on the radio is better than watching on TV.

Gene is alright, I don't care what anyone says! He helped me with a replacement rear seat for my 64. Now I just need to buy a starter from him!

I'm 6 years late to add this question, but where does one source a starter motor for a 1964 425?

I wanted to determine why I had to add a quart of oil every 100 miles or so and was told one way to determine root cause was to do a dry and leak down compression tests and compare the numbers.

The owner of this shop is a classic car guy, he has a lot of experience with the motors and transmissions of the 60's cars. He has a number of 1960's Chevy's as well. I agree, there's no way I would bring it to a generic modern shop. He replaced the plugs and changed out the points and adjusted the dwell & timing.

Update: compression test show Cylinder #1 - 150, 3 - 130, 5 - 120, 7 - 140, 2 - 135, 4 - 130, 6 - 130, 8 - 120 Dry, Wet added 60lbs. The 120lb became 180lbs. He said the plugs were bad, points were shot, starter is tired. He suggested valve job with hardened seats and valves and probably do the top and bottom of the engine.

I poured it in the headlamp receptacle. 1 quart every 120 miles or so, not normal. Bringing it to a reliable shop today... Thanks

My gut told me not to do it and I ignored it. Anyway, bringing it to a reliable shop today and warming up my credit card.

My 1964 with the 425 was starting and running fine, but oil consumption has been an issue. I had a compression test done a couple of months ago and I believe the numbers were mid-140's all the way up to 165. That being said, as a band-aid until I can have the motor looked at in more detail (and AFFORD to), I purchased Bars Leak Oil Seal Oil Burning & Leak Repair & added it to my oil. The car ran fine, in fact it seemed to run quieter and started easier. However, after 200-some miles after adding it, now it sputters and stalls and is hard starting. Is it a coincidence and has nothing to do with the additive being used? Any suggestions on what would cause this?

balance the drive shaft

Do you have a copy of the chassis service manual, Nick?