Ereatta

just filled the tank and its running fine with normal idle

With the key to run or engine on and idle? What would that indicate, padgett?

So it's definitely the fuel pressure when there is half a tank. Barney, is this the correct tutorial?

Okay. 89 Reatta . Your really Bidening me right now, Ronnie. So after an a.m. of stalling and hours of crank and no start. Just now I filled two more gallons of fuel and it started. This only leaves one culprit, the fuel assembly hoses, any nay sayers? Fuel Tank To Filler Tube Hose Replacement tutorial is this the correct tutorial on this ? Thank you for your response

.4 at idle and smooth increase to 4.28-30

Thank you for your very informative response, so replacement without adjustment first?

"WOT" While .... ....? the tps doesnt go over 2.3 when revving while idle

okay. 1st try : the reading first springed to 42 then to 35 and gradually to 32 2nd : sprung up to 42 then again rapidly movement to 35 then gradually quick to 24 3rd: 42 for 2 seconds than same and gradually down to 22 psi i have the recording of the test on video, does not fit in this reply

Is it the same procedure with the vacuum pump as the gauge?

So basically, complete overhaul? 😊

Those 3 in the first picture, and the bottom one in the 2nd picture I swapped with new, the one going to the brake pedal is difficult to track. So if the vacuum tubes are still intact but have that crumbly feel, it is best to change with new?

Got it.

I feel like it would drive fine if the tank is full. Does the gas tank need to be drained to check the fuel pump and connections around it? I do believe there is a cruise control error, The one that says "cruise control may be disengaged or something". I haven't driven it in a while so... these errors come up only when I drive around a bit. I replaced a few vacuum tube connections, but when I listen closely around the air filter area, still sounds like a leak. So is 245 in the ecm okay for a knock sensor? I think I'm going to try this step as well "Pull the vacuum line off the fuel pressure regulator and see if gasoline is present in the line. If gasoline is present in the line the fuel pressure regulator is defective and should be replaced before doing the fuel pressure tests. A bad fuel pressure regulator with gasoline in the line can cause the following symptoms: black exhaust - rough running - hard to start unless pressing down on the accelerator pedal."

if the fuel supply is inadequate would the sensor show lean? There is only one sensor? I'll change the oxygen sensor and go from there?

Okay, so I went to the ECM level, everything seemed in range, except the oxygen sensor voltage was .2 ED07 Knock sensor activity was at a whopping 245 ED17 oxygen sensor cross counts ED18 was 0 The throttle position sensor was .42 at idle as soon as i drove it out of the parking it stalled I'm going to inspect the vacuum tubes again

Is the iac that thing that needs cleaning? I cleaned that. It must be the throttle position sensor, but why does it not show in the diagnostic read? How should the sensor be adjusted, through the computer? The computer shows E044 running lean, I haven't changed the oxygen sensor yet, figuring that may solve it. I also put cleaning agents in the tank because it was sitting around with a full gas tank for 2 years. I don't if that would cause it to run lean.

Okay, managed to find where it goes. The car still stalls. I think this occurs when there is less than half a tank of gas. The person I purchased the vehicle from, said he changed the fuel pump. I replaced the fuel pump relay, so that's out of question. Maybe a connection in the fuel pump circuit? Because, ever since I purchased it, the car does not start without pressing on the gas pedal first, giving it some gas, then it starts...any ideas?

Is the location to where it goes under the air filter?

i replaced the short rubber line with a regular vacuum line because it looked worn, then that shorter plastic line that's shaped like a z connects to what? the purge canister? thanks for your replies

I changed the a/c clutch because it was worn maybe I left a wire unplugged? What's the line here? Its has air going in because when I put my finger on it, the engine power lowers as if it is about to stall 89' What is the dryer?

I changed a few vacuum lines, specifically the one from the vacuum tank to the triple valve and the 2 lines from there. I do not remember where this goes (see picture) line on the left with rust on it next to the a/c component. Any help is appreciated. I haven't tested the fuel pump because the person I purchased the Reatta from, said he changed it.

Thanks Barney, so dropping pan followed by a flush is ideal

General Motors, I was inquiring about a transmission flush because it was sitting around for two years, and the representative said because of the vehicles age there's a chance the flush may ruin something in the transmission, making it undrivable. I was wondering if this applies to the Reatta. Nothing wrong with the transmission that I know of.

The dealer said that the car had a 50/50 chance after a transmission flush, is this accurate or partly ignorance about Reattas and how well built they are?

What about an engine flush?