S36PA

Contact John Cislak, he sells 8 and 12 cylinder Pierce-Arrow parts. 413/543-9017 Johnclassicauto@gmail.com

Another Humboldt County photo. 1908 White at Big Lagoon. It looks like a good day for fishing.

1966 Jaguar E-Type

Mark, It is the same as my '33 gas cap.

S.F. Van Ness Auto Row doc: https://default.sfplanning.org/DPRforms/Van Ness AutoRow ContextDraft Feb2010.pdf

Walt, You mentioned being willing to do a presentation at the PAS meet on New York coachbuilders. We would be interested in such a presentation. Please message me if you are still interested. This year's meet is in Glens Falls, N.Y.

Ken, It doesn't look like '20s era Pierce-Arrow. These have a horizontal split so the bottom edge would be straight.

Check with John Cislak: 413-543-9017 Johnclassicauto@gmail.com

Pierce-Arrow Society Records do not have this serial number. It falls in the numbering sequence for 1913, possibly late 1912. Is there anyway we could get what information you have on it to add to PAS records? The PAS "Arrow" of 1977-1 is mostly about Pierce Motorcycles and includes a year identification guide. It is available to PAS members on the PAS website.

Jon, Check the voltage while cranking at the battery posts and then at the starter post and case. If there is much difference, there is either a bad connection or the cables are too small. Most recommendations for 6v are for 2/0 cables. Dave

John, If the cable(s ?) are getting hot, it most likely is too small of a cable, a bad connection on the cable, or less likely, a fault in the starter that is causing it to draw too much current or a poor battery. I know you said all connections are clean, but, sometimes the crimp is bad and you can't tell. Also, woven ground straps can cause a lot of resistance. Cables should be #00 cable as a minimum, don't use cables designed for 12V, they are not heavy enough. What is the voltage at the battery when cranking. It should be at least 4.8v. Check next at the starter, it should be close to the same. If not, start checking voltages and work your way back to the battery checking at each connection. If you get an increase at one connection, it is either that connection or the one before it, depending on which side of the connection you put your voltmeter on, or that cable. Check both - and + circuits. Ground cable connections are notorious for being bad. If you have not taken it apart and cleaned it, don't count on it being a good connection. The Pierce-Arrow Society website tells me you are a current PAS member, so, if you are looking for Pierce-Arrow Society members near you, go to the PAS website under member pages and go to the Member Roster. In the search function enter CO in the state and you will get two pages of CO members. I saw one other listed in Longmont. You can also do a technical search under Publications in the Members Area of the PAS site for articles on starter problems. You might also post this on the PAS website Message Board. I think more of the PA gurus check that page. The Parts and Services Directory on the PAS site should list some vendors that rebuild starters. Good luck. Let us know how this turns out Dave

Chuck, To tell the whole story, I wondered for a long time what the Delco switch did. I finally figured it out when I turned it on inside the trailer and noticed the dash lights come on. I made a starting video when I bought my S 36 and the prior owner told me about turning the switches off individually to check that both ignitions were working. When I bought my second S 36 with the bad left ignition, I found out it was good advice. I have no idea why it says Delco under that switch other than maybe Delco made the switch panel. If you ever stick your head under the dash, the switch panel is quite interesting in the way it is all setup. By the way, your sedan is a great looking car. Dave

Hupp36, The "Delco" switch on my Series 36 controls the dash lights and has nothing to do with the ignition. I usually run with both the left and right switches on and the double switch off. When shutting down, I turn off one switch, then turn it back on, then turn off the other switch, then finally go back and turn off the first switch to kill the engine. It should continue to run on either side of the ignition although not as well. This tells you that both ignition systems are working. When I first got my '27 Series 36, the prior owner told me it never ran as strong as his other S 36. By checking both ignitions individually, I found out that the left ignition was not working. It turned out the steel resistor on the coil was open. He had never checked each ignition individually. It ran a lot better on both sides.