Robby120113

@Bloo thank you very much for that detailed description. With this i will take a nother look on all the wires. Especially the one from regulator to ammeter. I added an extra ground from the generator to the body of the regulator. When we tested it on the bench with my generator on a small engine all values were stable and nice. We noticed the output of the regulator was 8volts. So i brought it down to 7.4 orso. But from what i was told this is probably to low since the loss in the lenght of the wires the charge can be a bit too low now and i will put it back up to around 8volt again and then measure it at my battery thus time. i have an extra video from last night. I just wanted to see what it does. It starts right up but after a few seconds it started with the dipping in the charge. If you look in the bright parr t of the light you see its dipping together with dipping of the gauge.

And just wondering what this little device is

I didnt locate the issue yet. But i was on the lookout for a wire harness... 1000 bucks for it!! Omg. So for now further searching the issue and a cutoff switch

I have found the ground to engine. Was not hard to find. But where is ground from engine to body/chassis?

First thing tonight i will check the ground cables on the frame and engine. I still have the original charging system by the way

Thats a good question. Dont know at the moment. Maybe good point. Maybe recheck all the wiring under the dash?

@neil morse i will check the wiring. It is indeed still the original wireharness @Matt Harwood mine was also rock solid at 0 before. That’s why i started to see it as an issue. I know that new doesnt mean good but it was tested in a testing thing with all wires attched and all values were good. Only the output of the regulator was around 8volts. Turned it down to 7,4ish. reason i dont thrust the bounch is because the light dimmed while driving so know the battery is not fully charged. thanks

Hi guys. normally while driving the amp meter needles was just right of the centre in the plus. When i turned on my lights it jumped to minus and directly to plus again and was steady the whole way. but suddenly the needles is very jumpy and restless. While driving also a lot of the time in the minus and i can see my headlights dim. So scared of running dry. Today i had the generator testen and was top notch. Then in the testing machine we hooked about the voltage regulator and all values were great. So cleaned the connector and added a extra ground and did a test today. But still the same issue. Where do i need to look now. Regulator is new btw. thanks for all the help

Nobody found one yet for me?

Here is a link where you can see that the crank is turning but the camshaft takes a but longer before it will move with it

Hi all. so today i had the time to take off the oil pan. Which was very easy. All the bolts were accessible. The inside was very clean and nice. We took of the caps and did the plastigauge as seennin the picture. We measured 0,025mm or for you 0,001” after further inspection we might found the problem. When turning the crankshaft it took a small moment before the camshaft turned. When we peaked to the front of the crank we could see the chain. And we think the chain is overstretched and causing the noise. So to be sure. I will look around for a new chain and sprocket. Checking the the crank has given me some reassurance. Thanks all for the help. Now wait for the the parts and will let you know

The wrist pin is maybe to see with a camera through the sparkplug hole. Turning the crankshaft and see what the piston does. The sound is more present on acceleration and half throttle like in the interior video. Less on deaccelaration. Wednesday hopefully i will have conclusion.

Thanks. Iately i still drove the car because i just love it. Now it is more clear it is a rod bearing maybe i will take it more easy. Wednesday i have to drive it 20 miles to the garage who are specialized in these kind of repairs. Will post here what the outcome is. For my knowlegde, can the camshaft also cause this kind of noise (since it also on the noise side of the engine). to be continued

Thanks all for the help. At this moment im still leaning towards lower block. Reason is indeed that the sound is still there without fan belt and fuelpump. Also hard to tell by a video but standing by the open hood it realy comes from the lower parts. The sparkplug test will be the first next week and then the plastigauge hopefully on a cilinders thats quiet after missing its spark. Is a oilpan from a 1940 special model41 removable without any crossmembers in the way?

I have a early 1940 special. I found a picture of the rod. I marked it with 2 red lines. Is that the location of the shim?

The waterpump and fan belt are just last week replaced. The sound is also clearly coming from lower in the engine and not front. I will do the check with cancel the spark per cilinder

Is there a picture how the shims look like on the babbit? So i know what to look for?

Goodmorning. thanks for the tips so far. Some additional info. The fuelpump is replaced for and electric version. The location of the mechanical fuelpump has a cap on it. So thats not the issue. The engine is a 248. And with a stethoscope it was clearly from the bottom end. @37_Roadmaster_C dobyou have a picture of how a shim looks like on the connecting rod? So it is possible if there are still shims to remove 1 and no rebuild is needed? As for the wrist pin the garage said maybe we can put in a small camera through the sparkplug hole and turn the crank to see if the piston moves. @Grimy yes. You can hear it. See video clip below. Only at higher speeds its gone. Probably because of additional sounds. I will see if we have a big glove to remove each sprakplug cable to see which piston. in this video you might hear it better. Its not the valve sound but the hollow thicking sound.

After a few setbacks since i got the car there is still 1 sound i dont trust. After trying to pinpoint the location it looks like the inside of bottom engine. I do have nice oil pressure at low and high rpm. To be sure i want to remove the oil pan to check if there is play somewhere. So started to read on this forum. But ive read two thing. Babbit and shims. Is it possible to check from the underside for play in the connecting rod? Are there shims i can check? I will go crazy if i already need an engine rebuild after owning the car for 5 months. hope i will get some reaction since i cant sleep due to worrying here you here the sound while driving

Okay guys. This my best and made 2 short video clips. I hope you are able you hear that strange ticking sound which are not the valves but lower in the engine and best heared when slighty with a pulling engine and less with idle.

Yes there is a buick

I bought the car with the bent pushrods apperently. Think due to long storage the valve were stuck. I will make a video of the sound. Who knows it helps. At this moment i am waiting for the waterpump

Hey guys, already done a 350 mile orso with the new pushrods and all works good. But there is still a ticking sound in my engine. Can it be that the reason the pushrods were bent as seen on the picture on page one, the solid lifters also took a beating? If so maybe better to replace them? Or is there a way to test them? Thank all!

Here i am parked on the location where in 1941 there was still a church. The whole village was destroyed to make room to become a test location for weapons during world war 2. The mozaïek floor is still there. This place is called Lathen. I live close to the border. The pictures above are on the Netherlands side of the border in the village Ter Apel

Thanks guys. I am for sure not allowed to have them on the car instead of the dutch license plates. I can put them on together. But that doesnt look right. I will install them on a show or display or maybe the occasional photoshoot