Robby120113

Hi guys. I was already active on this forum because of my buick from 1940. But the american cars still gets to me. Im looking at chevrolet AK. I was wondering if there is a nice website on this model or a guy here i can contact with some questions. thanks all

So the 3.4 doenst fit a special. But the 3.36 does or is it the same thing?

After i installed 2 nos rear shocks i again feel the rear shock start loosing their strenght after some 400miles. Why is this you think. They are dry and not leaking. Should i just try to refill again?

Where to find this 3.36 punkin?

Do you think the 248ci engine is still able to drive normally with this gear? thanks

Hi guys. i am still on the look out for a better option for my 1940 buick special with a 3.9 rear gear ratio. I drive a lot and the fuel prices are ridiculous here. And also i want to have the rpm down. Since i live in the Netherlands parts shipment from the US will be very pricy. But now i see that there is a 1949 buick super dynaflow for sale in my country. Is this rear gear setup possible for mine? thanks

Doing some off road

Maybe i have found something. The membrane that holds the spring was partially gone. Now maybe the spring can cause the shortage between the 2 parts of the steeringwheel. I wrapped the lower bit of the spring in shrink wrap.

Hey guys since i had the car the horn ring didnt work and a alternative button was mounted on the dash. Now i installed a new wireharnes in the car and also the cable in the steeringtube is replaced. now here is the issue. The horn ring works great again. But after a 20 minutes or so the car starts to horn. I then have to quickle run to the garaga and removed the cable from the steering housing. Nothing is touching the car whats so ever. Then the next day i can reattach the cable and all works again. Then after a 20 minutes without warning it starts to horn again on its own. Im confused. Is there some kind of voltage build up and need to discharge? So better i do not drive with the cable attached at this moment. Car is a 1940 buick special model 41

Then maybe some one changed in the beginning since it looked like it was never removed. The cables were so brittle that when i touched it they broke. Also there was a stamp on the back with 40. Not possible that my car was already provided these style gauges? Will be a more expensive job to change all the gauges. So will leave it for now i think

Found one on my phone thanks

Hi. I never noticed this message. Sorry. But i see that you have a different gauge then mine. Yours look like a 39 right? Mine is round. Together with the ammeter.

Liberation tour in the Netherlands

Nice perspective

Yup. Got a new switch. For buick i cannot find the easy in europe. But these are the same as a willys jeep. And we have plenty of them here haha

Somewhere in the past they cut an opening just above the vacuum wiper motor for easier access. Seen it before on other buicks. Hard to repair unfortunate

Just love this cockpit

@michealbernal sorry. Its a 1940 buick special. @Morgan Wright its was working properly for a long time. Only now after i made a shirtcircuit on it not anymore

So i collected some courage and redid my whole wire harness. Now somehow I managed to rebuild all if it and did an install and the car worked. Even the dash electronics. So just wanted to take it out again to tape it all and noticed that only my brake lights didnt work. I found out the problem was that the big connector was not fully closed and was shorting on the dash. Now if i put a screwdriver on both contacts on the brake switch my brake lights work nicely again. But not by pressing the brake pedal. Did i damage the inside of the brake switxh with the shorting? thanks for you input

To have my car more save for the future i made the decision to also check the whole wire harness. Today step one. Mark all connections and take out the whole loom

I bought a spare regulator in america. But will take probably a week or 2 before ill have it here. I also ordered an electric one that fits in the original housing. I drive quite a lot and dont want issues when far away from home.

@boois was the relay marked as field that we touched and the rapid moving of the needle stopped and the charge went up. I took it out again to have a look at the points. Ofcourse cables will be renewed also.

Ok guys. Problem is located. Solution not yet but will continue tomorrow. The problem sits in the part of the regulator. We hooked a amp meter to the generator, when the engine was idle the ammeter in my gauge was shaking and the ampere on the generator was flucttuating between 8-12amps. But when we put a finger on the circled part and helped the point to contact the gauges was perfect and the amps on the generator was 19amps. So burned or damaged contacts. So will take it apart and let you guys know.

Some pics of today with a different perspective

Small video of a drive today. You can see the difference between first run of the day to work and then in the afternoon. So strange