Flivverking

So George k. is not willing to save me,just kick the can( me) That says alot. Goergie,I still love you,because I know you mean well..

I didn't read more then the heading You like it it? buy it! I saw only one Edsel in service in my lame 61 year life ,and that was 54 years ago. It has a place in history! The butt of old jokes..so what! I have no idea as to parts..but I bet you can find anything ... Don't worry about the negs...go with your passion.. We love you for your interest!

I see here mostly commercial custom "Quirky"body jobs that are not that quirky for the time,era and conditions, in my opinion. But somestime you see these wild extremely over the top weird custom jobs by private people or concerns..and wonder, what are/were they thinking? The time invested and money and only they have the appreciation for the eyesore and boast."look at me and my marvel". And everyone else is ready to puke at the ugly mess. Beauty is in the eyes of the beholder,even if they are tastless and blind. .

Everyone knows..in 1931 the "Ass-ache" ,I mean "Essex Super Sick" was the offical mascot for Badmitton!

Maybe Leomara will have a better outcome ,and his '28 ,72 has the later drum brakes...Not external band jobs..It's a hassle taking them apart over and over.. Good luck! P.S.In my opinion...get the brakes going ,ASAP, to see what's up?

I have come to conclusion ,after the fact, 2 wire horns to single wire horns, most of these are 6 volts sold as 12 volts..12v just scream louder. Some times it is said if you see some green insulation wire on the fields it's 12 volts. They all still blow good at 6 volts like a stock Ford Model A horn,which isn't bad. I have refurbished and sold over 5o-60 Hutchtins horns in the last 40 years. They all blow/blew on a classic register just fine at 6 volts and screamed at 12 v. Many single wire jobs I converted to double wire for model A Ford folks. They are o.k. horns to give a more then hardy, traditional type ,KLAXON sound. I still have a milk crate full of them .5 bucks at flea markets ,condition unknown when sold..ten bucks for all chrome! Lol. .

A year and half(over due) struggling to get brakes on the '27 Chrysler 70 and "Apple" screwing me over on a rotten leaky rebuilding job of sleeving, we finally got brake pressure with no leaks from hard to find replacement wheel cylinders ,sleeved by Brake &Equipment Warehouse. Not only did all 4 wheel cylinders have blow by after inept sleeving & rebuilding by "Apple" and got as far as returing 3, to be redone ( only for those to still leak),now the master cylinder sleeved and rebuilt by Apple Hydraulics is leaking too. So we have to send that out to be redone,somewhere else! We have studied all the failed wheel cylinders sleeved and resleeved by Apple Hydraulics at 1-1/4" inch and all sleeves have seams(not seamless tubing ) and riddled with forming/reforming groves from what ever brass stock with a seam, and on some redone have low brown spots of oxidation passed over by honing. Their method is very poor or lets say shoddy. Just saying. Sincerly ,Davey Downer!

Shxt! I hope you recover well and quick.. I will send you my prayers. I have been/was a diehard cyclist since ,what 4 or 5 till 58. I ride/ road after 12 years old ,on old school classic ten speeds.. After 55 years old of inner city riding(i road l/drove like a car and followed traffic rules..to extreme), I gave it up, after being cut off by too many socker moms in SUVs cutting me off while on a cell phone and me crashing into thier door ,hanging on over the window edge,screaming at them,hanging on. Last time I attempted a ride at dusk,I was pushed over to curb by a trucker passing me and ran over a storm grate with open slots the entire length of the 3 foot long grate!. At 18mph my wheels l hit the grate, double ditched and I went head over onto the street. The rims egg shaped and me with a jaw that clacked for over a year. I lay on the road and know one stopped. If I want to pleasure ride I have to strap on the bike and drive several miles to a canal railroad right of way, made into a walk path. I have yet to do it. GodsSpeed to you.

We gave up on the wonderfull PA automobiles years ago. You had to be a snooty snoot and had to con and weave your way into clicks,which is near impossible if your middle class or less ,unless your a good classic huckster.. But..I managed Dusenberg friends..That should say something.

Anyone pay attention to the news of the old Packard plant being razed. If so,excuse me for being late to the party. If Henry Fords name was attacted ,*it wouldn't have gotten to this point. Sorry to see it go..but lives have to move on. ..

I ONLY READ THE TOPIC. No such thing as too fast! sorta! Since the begining of the automobile,power and speed has been the overall drive! That being crudely said..saftey ,skill,knowing your self,knowing your car's capabilties etc,are the defining point. Pushing an old car in so-so shape beyond it's condition and testing your driving skill is a very fine unnecessary line. I've driving a stock '63 Impala in mint condition to 110...I would not do it again,80 is it! I Drove a hopped up B motor model A pheaton to 85...but 65 was sane! Pushed a atock Model T to 55...when 45 was scary on wood wheels.. Ran my 40 LaSalle to 95,75 in second.....why? Stupidity was the only reason. The only thint I see(testing vintage cars) at high speed is ,if capable? the car is more at at ease at lower and more enjoyable and easier at speed. If your 1933 ,Crappy," Acme Special" struggles at 40..that sucks! But when in good enough shape is does o.k at 55, most likely 40 is a breeze. I've had Model T's that will beat any Corvett,off the line for the first 15/18 feet! No kidding...LOL )

Set of 4 + 1 extra (dat makes five) Original, long stem,7/16" hex wrench ,7/16 x 20 thread ,wheel cylinder bleeder valves for the early "lockheed" external contracting brake bands. These valves have not been available new for decades. Commom to Chrysler( 1925-early 1928) and others such as Kissell ,some late Stanley,Jordan? and several others in the 20's. All appear very useable with good threads .2 end cap bolts included(1/4"x 28 TPI) Includes USA shipping. $120.00 We will share in a verbose way that for originality these are required,and often necessary as on some applications the banjo fitting to the wheel cylinder used an proper tall acorn nut to top off the banjo's bolt threads, which(this acorn nut) impedes getting a wrench on a modern shorter bleeder valve . Originally for these bleeders ,a bleeder hose was included with the car,to thread into the bleeder valve.. We have experienced only making a mess(ruined restoration paint ect.with DOT 3 and 4 fluid) trying to bleed these original valves without an original bleeder hose,and it's very trying to use a hose over the entire original bleeder. If you don't care of the mess and spatter all over, GREAT! You sleep better then me. On some autos you can swap out the original acorn nut that caps the banjo bolt and use a regular nut with sealer(prevent wicking through the treads) ,and use a modern bleeder,hopefully?

A Johnson bar(slang) in railroad is the piston valve adjusting/ reversing lever used to cut down on inlet valve travel once a steam loco is under power to be more efficient in steam usage..then also used to reverse the valving in the cylinder steam chest for backing up a steam locomotive. My gramps was an engineer on the New Haven line from 1920 to 1952.

I bet if you look,you can find chromed over plastic bead welting that will work easier. Sometimes we have to make concessions...And guess what? The world spins just the same and your wife and friends still love you!

In my early years I was friends with an old timer with a brass car collection..Mostly original cars bought up in the 40s and 50s.taken apart,brush painted,polished and engine bearings fitted,ground valves and new rings. His go to tour car was a brass Oakland touring car. He never had any trouble racking up 4 to 6 miles a year with it,in the 8 years I knew him. He was a healthy nut with the oil can,greasing and touching every nut and bolt on the chassis and motor every season..So he caught any up comming issues,before they became an issue...

Crankshaft end play checker for the early 4 and 6 cylinder AC Mack trucks.😝 We see utilitarion commercial made tools like this all the time.. It may have no particular use but offered in various commerical catalogs for various uses. (Man hole cover rods usually have a hook) We easily have a years worth of postings (but wouldn't)of odds and ends of unidentified old tools. Some have company names..I don't care what they were used for originally...just use it for what I want. The only one I cherish is a coal shovel with a burned in the wood handle, " Bacon Banjo Company,New London Ct." It wasn't used to build banjos! Modern day ,it shovels snow real good. I no longer burn coal .

Shxt ,this is too funny. We might as well get in a steel cage just to walk around. Your dam bathroom isn't safe or your comfy slippers or your mailbox!

To Bob(1937HD45). I don't think we have meet. You would have either recalled(" this a-hole clown is to be avoided,or OMG,this creep is so much nicer and easier to take inperson,I wonder what's wrong with him?) I hope to be running over the original '27 Chrylser(the car from HELL) or some new '20's turn key jalopy . If you see a banjo in the back of any car..I'm probably the moron there. If you see creepy ventriloquist dummies as co-pilots..it is certainly is ME.as very few can take my crap. My dog has given up...But I love him.

I humbully appolgize for being an ass and a jerk, very often/mostly.. I can't help it,the mold was made. When one has only a 6th grade education(something to do with burning down the sience lab) and carringing a 22cal. bolt action Winchester rifle and driving and Essex to school ( I was 6 feet tall early)you get a bit warped Add in ,Model Ts,A,Bs,Essex/Husdon,Dodge Brothers,Callilac/LaSalley,Chrylers, Fraiser ,Nash ,Hupmobile,Durants and Plontiacs ,one can get disturbed over time and much nonesense is the result! I apprecaite the overall tollerace(which I often don't practice myself,gurr!)by the AACA members and followers..

Friend Alex Dragone says, June 12th is the date! And he will be posting it this week for those interested. As old shows and meets peter out( the natural nature of things) ,any new venues should be supported as much as possible. I rather a choose a close knit venue like this for vintage auto enthusiasts verses a public show any time. BUT! That being said,a good show supporting kids with cancer or the Special Olymics should not be over looked! Whether your a trophy monger or ? Use your car for support of something other then your own ego and guilty pleasures. Make a difference if you can! A smile is worth ten times any scratch !

Dwell was not a major concern back in the day..as long as there is enough. If everything is in good condition,set up close to spec. and you don't have a fxxked up worn distributor cam,regardless of fuel,you should be o.k.

Is the top vent port clear?

I knode if I tossed in the "status" thing,I was sure to get a reponce ,or is it ,response? I love you all,trying to keep us dopes on our toes! 90 % of my typos are intentional! Ha! Thanks !

BOBBY'S repaired the temp gauge for the '27 Chrysler..The price was competitive with others and done in a timely fashion. I would trust them.....so far.😌

I'm waiting to hear back from dear Alex Dragone(Dragone Classic Motor Cars) in Connecticut, as to the statis ( or is it status?l)of the next meet in Connecticut. Anyone closer or in the click ,know of the plans and date? The Dragone's offer a small ,(so far) and free , not much avertised event the past few years ,that can easily be seen to work up to a major New England event within a few years.