Flivverking

We have to see your State DMV statute regading this....Otherwise this is a nonsense post.

Never waited more the 2 weeks from a dealer( Ever) in over 45 years. No more then 10 or 12 days from a private person once they get the funds. I don't order parts on back order. Not receiving anything is another story.... I will conced I ordered a group 2 ,6 volt battery from a local "Battery Bulbs plus". They said special order...maybe a week?. 2 weeks later I called...Oh thats a special order...next week. Next day I went to a O'Rielly's in the next town...( I have a grudge against the one in my town) "The supply truck was coming down from Boston(to Connecticut) next day and that battery can be on the truck" the clerk said. No money down. Next day I had a group 2 ,6 volt battery at 3:30 pm with a fresh date sticker only 30 days old. Thats near 2 months ago. Never heard from " Battery Plus" yet. I have not bothered to cancel the order...

I don't get how a car has not been run ,with no water or radiator on it for 10 years had it's oil drained recently and there was water in the oil. Was this car stored out side with no cover on it for years ..seems impossible... Some detail is missing.

Steve knows every one it.seems.

Wallingford Connecticut,what appears to be a 1928 Dodge Bro. Standard Six..poised for some fresh air. Hard to see in pic In the dark right bay the front of a '37 Dog Bro.also

We made it at 9:45 am and it was in full swing. A very good flea market(which was our draw) and a decent amount of 4 wheel and a couple of 2 wheel bombs in attendance . Many nicely made ,choice street rods,up graded muscle cars , choice restored stockers of the 60s and early 70s and a smattering of our beloved stock old timers of the brass age that are the basis of all automobiles and should be respected. About a dozen Model As and several Ts. A 1911 Packard touring you can eat your own spit off,it was so perfect( ick..but it makes the point) and under tent Stanley Steam car! Also a 1909? CADDILAC..and 1913 Buick.roadster were driven there and an early Hupmobile touring ,were not trailered. Dick (Richard Burnham) who is one of the most friendly, strong ,and sweet gentlemen ,in this hobby and maybe around 80 ?,but eternally 45, is a mainstay at Goshen. He drove his dependable ,mostly unrestored 29? Franklin roadster. Who would not want that car? The meet is at a nice easy to get to country location and a great fun relaxing drive to. I meet up with several old timers, who I'm still the kid to them(.and I am over 60).and met some overly chatty wives and girlfriends of car owners...Hum? I guess the last gasp of sex appeal leaked through? ha!. No it was gone at 52(😝) There was many hopeful very young men and women in attendance. Later in the day..a young women came in with a well handled open 29 Ford stock Pick.up.,followed by a young man in a closed "29 Ford Pick.up...a couple?...I didn't get to them. I get excited when the females drive these cars... I'm very soft that way. Overall a great general meet,thats going to hang in there for years to come. Pic is of a 1930 Pontiac..about as orignal.unrestored as you can get , be rusty and run and drive SWEET! Brown patina ..the interior was pretty dam good.o loved it. Love! Troublesome David . . ... . .

I'd say peach,untill today.I.saw a cherry very well built and detailed traditional circa 1960 style '32 Ford highboy roadster ..driven by a sexy young women...the car was gorgeous..probably half new. Any car with brown fenders or orange fenders before 1936 is icky. The 70's and 80s saw a bunch of white, brown ,tan orange ,yellow ,combows...barf! But they can be salvage with. Black fenders.

I love this young mans work. How do we get him a full size vintage car to make full size vignettes of various scenes? Or help with scenic detail materials and more models or equipment. I was a modeler and a photographer years ago..I never married the two. It would of saved me thousands of dollars in satisfaction if I did!

Modern synthetic oils are becoming very common place along with synthetic blends... There is nothing to be afraid of. As old time straight weights are getting harder to get instantly, you can mix synthectic oils with straight oils without worry ,you only loose the benefits like extended oil changes /better long turn lubrication ( for the higher price paid per qt or gal. )compaired to what basic oils offer. Synthetic oils still start out as real oil. Just modified and added to a degree...it isn't plastic...LOL. By the second oil change switch..you good as all synthetic. They are not so good for breaking in new engines (rings) in my opinion. But after that go for it.

I find most web scams so easy to spot..it's ones own desperation that blinds one to fall for it. I read many of these praises of how wonderfull an honest old car people are, but if your in it long enough you find a fare share of deviousness as with anything else... It's more hard on the diehard faithful and trusting folk..who once you no longer try to trust folks...whats the point...the world just sucks...so crawl under a rock or keep trusting and probably loosing . I've been burned more from inperson car parts dealings of buying parts then.any internet buying.. And from dealers of new parts . They get a bad batch of T parts from the supplier..they know the stufff is crap but offer it anyway..though it is unusable. "So I should get stuck.with it?" Was the response of a well known "T"parts supplier. It's about 65% works out .and 35% you'll loose ,so budget that in.LOL. In over 45 years ,for cars I was seriously rebuilding...each has at least a 1000 to 1500 bucks of crap that was no good and couldn't use. Once I got completely screwed from the get go from a guy rebuilding clutch disks in Hemmings in the late 80s..specializing in recorking.Hudson -Essex-Terraplane dicks.. Then ,it cost about 35 -40 bucks with returned shipping included. That was the last I saw of that clutch disk...HE WAS GONE. I wasn't the only one. Anyone remember that mess? . As you see I have not recovered from the mail order rebuilding of parts that came out unusable.. Thats another type of scam many have to deal with. SUCKERS! gulp...guilty. Sorry for the disjointed ramble( thats part of the fun) we are grinding valves on a Maxwell..!

We have the notion to touch up the upper end (rings and valves) on this Chrysler with engine in place. The pistons and rod assemblies are installed and removed from the bottom..as the big end of the con-rod is larger then the 3-1/8" cylinder bore. The bottom edge of the bore has a taper or bevel of about 5/16" wide to aid in getting the rings in. I'm not conviced yet this can be done with the crankshaft in place . Even if we get a test piston and rod snaked out, it looks quite near impossible to restall with pushing against the angle of the rod to piston and getting rings started back into the bore. Anyone familar with this procedure? Or does the engine to be pulled and crank out for a re-ring? Regards.DMS

Beware that many A Ford plugs offered maybe be way to hot and to long a reach. A basic medium/ warm range plug is the Autolite 3076. They are consider hotish but on a 1= cooler to 9 "hottest scale they are like pushing 5-6 on the scale. They are the least costly plug and very easy to get. Also beware of crossreferences.. Many plugs in thes list are plugs that FIT and work...but can easily(usually) be a point or two cooler or a few points hotter then what you are replacing.

Late to.this party. A dumb question! No more impractical.then fishing ,hunting ,crusing a bar to get laid! Or model rail roading,playing the banjo or volunteering at a rehab. The whole hobby is stupid! Like most hobbies...But.we do what.we do to keep head shrinkers employed.

I love Steve Mack!

Well I made it there,and surprizingly was very welcome by many and by old timers I knew as a teen . It was HOT.and wished I was still a young straping sexy ( don't we all)"free baller"( look it up),but carried on with a dozen drinks. Though the meet has grossly deminished in numbers from it's hay day of the late 70's and 90's it still has charm and comaraderie between collector car folk ,in a most grand location and also great mixing up with custom car owners. If anything it gets YOU and your bomb,out to enjoy life in the car world...it's good. The rust market was so-so ,but I found a vintage pair of older piston ring expander pliers for 5 bucks and a set of standard / ,010 over pistonie rings for a friends Dog Brother's 192o's beast for 20 bucks! Not much of anything for sale in cars which was odd with this economy.

You should see inperson several well restored tops on other cars of the period and study the installion details( with a camera.)

There are no known viable or authoritative dvds or videos on that subject. There a hand full of old articles written through the years touching on the subect.. One that maybe of use to you is an article written by E.W.Stitt around mid.1960. It has been reproduce many times and the easist to find reprint can be found in the RED "Model T Ford Restoration Handbook" from 1960 ,new.and used copies .

I have only missed the Connecticut Belltown antique car show 4 times since 1968... I think it's the 4th location and is still.going with much the same crew of 30/40 years ago. I go out of respect and from them being a sister club(which I belonged for years) to the Roaring Twenties Car Club in Ct. which both clubs supported the other in man power and.judging for 25/35 years back on the day. Plus they still have a flea market ! There is only 4 meets I know of in Ct. that have flea markets. 1,MY friend Alex Dragon's " Iron Range" Meet 2,Belltown Antique Auto Club. 3,Roaring 20's antique car club and the 4th then Goshen meet.

I have would never sell a car that is not a cash deal as a private person. I've sold cars on auction sites and stipulate cash to take the car way. It can be messy when the car hauler shows up before the nephew shows up with funds.. If someone says their check it good ..it isn't! Only high end folks ,untrust worthy , play the game of no cash Antique autos is a CASH hobby, period!

Don't be affraid to use HEAT! to lossen wheel cylinder pistons frozen in Iron. Heat well but far from red.. A propane home torch will do but it's slow to get really toasty.. Once smoking hot.. toss in a cool bucket of water to quench. It may take a few tries... Avoid bubbling old fluid and fumes and melting rubber ozzing out. Googles and gloves a must. Remember to free frozen similar metal use heat. To free up disimilar metals you quench and you can't quench untill you heat.