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Flivverking

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Everything posted by Flivverking

  1. At a little generic ,fun car meet this morning in Prospect Connecticut I spotted this shabby '30 "A" model Ford,sportish couple with a cool Simplex"Automatic"motobike permanenty displayed off it's posterior... Even though the bike looks as old as the car in it's style ,it's probably not eariler then the 1950's..
  2. Your not the first ,or the last one to try to save a few minutes or some energy with this move. Just think,for the rest of your natural life,you will never do that again.! 😌
  3. I just received my '27 Chrysler G70 temp. gauge back from "Bob's Speedometer Service." It was sent in for the estimate mid June,and I was called with the estimate on or about July 12th and gave them the "go-a-head". Here is the up to date cost of such a repair. $475.00 labor $26.00 shipping and insurance. Total $501.00 No work was required on the actual gauge unit or face and it came back with most of my protective card barrel intact ,with tape and ties. Very well packed for the return trip. The gauge is reading 100 degress now and I just took it in, off the 100 plus a few degrees glassed in front porch,so think it's with in the spec. limit of 10 degress either way. My fuel gauge was returned after several weeks (with out notice) from it's estimate as "we can't repair it" and made note "we sent it back free of charge"...(oh big deal )from another firm ."Instrument Services"or something? This company was recomended by the owner of "TriStarr " who I orginally wanted to have build up a new fuel tank sending unit..which can't be done without a working gauge, old or new to custom match the ohms to. What bugs me is the returned fuel gauge is, just returned with no detail of really why they couldn't repair it. One might think"oh! this place just can't do it,so I'll send it out again to another place ,that could repair it? Easy Peasy. Well ,with extra long and close examination of the gauge I see where it had been broken when the "we can't fix it "place had it and it was gray epoxied, like JB weld ,discretely back together. After this intense study ,the hard to see inner frame of the gauge that everything mounts to ,is white metal with some stand off posts to hold on the face and half the needle pivots and those were broken and glued back. This (the white metal base frame) also has buckled up and is pushing 2 copper wound coils up into the face back, enough so the face presses on the needle. All this is to say ,it would have been very easy for someone just a tiny bit "more stupider" then I(or is it ME?) not to observe this mess and try another repair company. The dopy company should have written in the box note that the gauge is just NOT repairable ,probably by anyone ,and why. Lucky,that for now the fuel tank filler is easy to sound with a freaken wood stick ,that I can meter mark off as I fill it a gallon at a time.....some day ....soon...maybe?
  4. I've sold several vintage cars on Ebay in the past 25 years and each one took 3/4 listings to get a bidder who followed through after each one was bid on and won . One car(a black beauty Ford Model A phaeton with no top yet and NO TITLE ) was won in a bidding war by a Mass. Police weasel who called me up 3 days after the auction to whine about the no title and didn't want to pay up and follow through and wanted his $500 deposit back..He didn't get it..even after some" I'm a cop "threats. Car sold in 2 hours after relisting 3rd time 2 weeks later... It is hassle with Ebay,especially getting cash "payments only" from buyers out of state and the problems with the shippers the new owner use,who show up before the cash is in my hands or doesn't show up at all. Expect the worse with Ebay straight off ,so if it works out , you will be pleased.
  5. In the rumble seat was my aunt Goerge or her twin brother my uncle Betty..Hard tell without seeing their shoes..
  6. I recall(1966) breezing along at 45mph over the Golden Gate bridge from San Fransisco to Sacramento just as in a newer car .It was not the fastest ride for that car. 50/55 was the self imposed safe limit and motor humming, from memory. ..70 was probably possible,but why? Though it did sport a yellow "Spirit of Saint Louis "airplane radiator cap..
  7. Hard to believe you went through all this and didn't read your plugs early along the way. Oh well ,you got it fixed and learned something of value too. "A"+ is your grade! Lets stay out of trouble for at least a year.😌
  8. We been there ,and done that! (In 1966).😎
  9. Well there is the classic model T joke of a man who was completely feed up with his Model T and posted an ad in the local paper that he was going to give it away and posted the date,time and intersection were it will be left to the first person to get there. . The day came and when he went to drop off his flivver at the designated spot ,there were 6 cars already there!
  10. My chrysler 70 (G70) of 1927 is the 2-3/8" x 16 TPI.... Thats early Chrysler for you. My car also takes 2 different size thread on hubcaps front and rear! Idiotic...I probably have left over from the 1926 B70 hubs ,either front or rear...on the "Motor Wheel Corp" wheels ..or new design introduction . I will post pictures of the hub puller that was made for me and point out the design features for a machinist.
  11. Here is a list of some hub puller specs. noted by a collector for various vintage cars. Anomalies can sometimes happen,but not that often.
  12. Excuse me, the Tim Kelly of Connecticut.. Father Tim Kelly was awsome ,well liked ,a great active car collector that also had a passion for early Fords like the Model K(or I should K's) and the rare Model A Ford town cars and town car delivery. Jeff is one of the sons..also a great guy.He lives in New York .
  13. Short of writting a letter,(if I recall how?) ,does anyone have info on or know how to contact the recently passed Tim Kelly's son ,Jeff Kelly ? Edit(Father Tim of Connecticut.) I spoke with him few months ago at an event about some items for sale,then we both got side tracked with other people and didn't resume later on. My bad😨.
  14. I hope this helps.. Note: as mentioned the plunger valve in the reservoir is CRUDE. It realy is just used as slight pusher(without a oneway valve) and as much as you push in or down ,it can some what pull fluid up back into the tank or pull air in from an open bleeder valve who's bleeder hose is no resting in a jar of fluid. Push it down as swift as you care but pull it up slowly..is my tip. I have had success just opening the reservoir tank valve and then one bleeder screw at a time and slowly push air out and let the fluid find it's way out of the bleeder screw (with no bubbles at all) and drain at least a half cup out into a jar .And do not reuse the bleed off fluid as these above instructions say...it is flushing garbage out..and is contaminated once it leaves the system. Don't be surprised if brown gook and green(from the copper) fluid comes out...keep bleeding till all fluid looks absolutely new.. Best wishes and good luck..
  15. The following for Chrysler 70 and others using early Lockheed external contracting hydraulic brakes.
  16. James ,to start with you should have a reservoir tank on the fire wall with a T handle..That is screwed in to close off the tank and opened for gravity bleeding only to charge the system . The system basically is a gravity bleed /prime/load the system. Pedal pumping does nothing as there is no spring in the master cylinder and once you push the pedal down..the pedal will return up but the master cylinder piston does not! ,that is untill the system is full and the brake band return springs push the wheel cylinder pistons back in and all the fluid back against the piston in the master cylinder. The reservior had a very crude plunger that is used to weakly encourage pushing fuild through the system.and pushing the master cylinder piston back to it's start postion..done usually at the end of simple gravity bleeding... Once you get a grip on this thought..it all becomes easier.. I will copy some info I have and post it or send it to you.
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