Chuck Harvey

1920 Paige Glenbrook 6-42 "Light Six" Touring. I have owned this car for over 30 Years. Is a California car, and have only light rust in it. It is not fully restored, but has been kept indoors, under cover, and well maintained during this period. The top, upholstery, and black paint were redone by the previous owner. In the last few years I have done several upgrades. About 5 layers of paint and varnish were stripped off the wheels and they were repainted. The pinstriping on the body and wheels are similar to what was on the car when I got it. The carburetor, fuel pump and distributor have been gone through. New spark plugs and plug wires were installed. The steering box was gone through. The fuel gauge was replaced, and much of the wiring replaced. The lights, horn and speedometer work. Oil was changed recently, and engine and radiator was flushed. The tires are quite old, but are in good condition. Transmission and rear end lubricants were replaced. The car starts easily, and runs strong. I have included a few spare parts such as distributor cap and water pump packing. The Graham-Paige legacy book, the Paige Detroit reference and owner's manual book, and several ads and other literature is also included. This is a very rare car, and even Barrett-Jackson does not know exactly what it is worth. This would be a good starter car for a complete restoration.Paige was a popular brand in the 1920s. They had 4 plants back then, 3 in the US and 1 in Canada. Asking $21,900 OBO Chuck Harvey 307-630-5502 erharvey64@gmail.com

Thanks for the response again. I was busy on the Paige and on my '74 Dodge Pickup over the weekend and forgot to check. I don't need any points as I have a spare set, and the distributor cap that I got appears to be in very good condition so I don't need that either. The rotor in your picture looks just like mine. What do you want for 1 or 2 of them as I would like to get at least one from you. A note to any Paige owners who might read this, I have a parts brochure for 1916 to 1918 and 1921 and 1922 Paige with Remy ignition. This of course not for my vehicle but might be the ignition used on other vehicles of those years. I'm asking $15 plus shipping for it. Let me know how you would like to be paid. Can do check, credit card or Paypal. Thanks again. Chuck Harvey

Thanks for responding again. I hope you liked the pictures. The shaft diameter is approx. 13/16". I did receive the used cap and it seems to be in pretty good shape and has good wire connectors on it to replace some of the broken ones I have. I have ordered new spark plugs which are 7/8-18 Autolite brand. The wires are newer but I'm going to replace them anyway. I recently did a compression test, and all 6 cylinders were around 60 psi. I really don't know if that is a good compression for a 20's car but it starts easily and runs pretty well on a Stromberg carburetor, despite the plugs being so cold that they are black carbon coated. Hope you have a rotor for me. Thanks again. Chuck Harvey

Here are some pictures of the car.

Thanks for responding. I'm working on a 1920 Paige Glenbrook with 6-42 engine. Enclosed find pictures of the rotor and the distributor. As you can see, the rotor was broken at some time in the past and repaired, sort of with JB Weld. I found a used Atwater-Kent distributor cap with the wire clamps for sale on the internet, and ordered it. It is not here yet so I don't know its condition. I could not however find a proper rotor for this particular unit. We're having trouble sending pictures so will send a second post with pictures of the car. I posted questions about the Jacox steering box several weeks back, and got ripped off by a guy who said he had parts for it. They never showed up. However, I was able to disassemble and repair the broken pin inside the box. I have recently rewired all the lights, repaired the broken speedometer drive chain and changed all the lubricants in it. I am replacing the mechanical fuel gauge with a more modern marine type, as I could not find anything remotely like it. I had hoped to find a number of these things and others at the Chickasha OK pre-war swap but of course it did not happen. I have a few more things to do to this and then I will probably put it up for sale. Even Barrett-Jackson and Gateway Classic Cars does not know what this car is worth, so I don't know what to ask for it. If anyone in AACA is interested in it, make me an offer. I have accumulated a few spare parts and maintenance literature for it. Also some sales ads and a book about the history of Paige and Graham-Paige which would go with it. Thanks again. Chuck Harvey

I have a CA atwater kent and could use a rotor, and a couple of the wire clamps on top of the cap. My cap seems OK, but would consider getting one if available. My rotor looks like the 2 in the above picture; and have the plastic bar inside like some of the others above. The rotor has AK 8, and the cap has C-C- 1/ 6. Shaft dia. is 13/32" aprox. Any help would be appreciated. C Harvey

I have a CA atwater kent dist. on my 1920 Paige Glenbrook. The cap and points are different. the cap might fit my dist. Your dist might fit 22 to about 25 Paiges and several other cars. C Harvey

The guy that I mentioned above, who was going to send me parts, called himself TJ. He is obviously a scammer as no parts ever arrived, even though he called me a couple of times after he got the money, why I don't know. I belong to the Horseless Carriage Club and the Hudson, Essex, Terraplane Club, as well as AACA. Some of them have complained about being scammed this way. It seems to me that all this useless security to get on the site does little to protect us. Anyone can join the club, pretend to be an old car owner and rip us off. If anyone has any suggestions as to how to be more secure in trading parts or literature with other members safely, I'd like to know. On a cheerier note, I disassembled his Jaycox box and found that one of the roller pins was busted causing one of the slider nuts to jam. I manufactured a new pin myself and welded it and the other pin which was loose and probably would have failed. I manufactured a new gasket for the end cap, and put silicone at the bottom where the stationary tube is after clamping it in place. I am about to reinstall the box and column in my car, and will put a stack of o-rings between the end of the shaft bearing and the pitman arm. In sealing up the box this way I feel I can fill it with regular gear lube, as the old stuff in it was dry, hard and not lubricating at all. Hope this works out well.

Thanks for the response. The guy who is sending me the parts said that his father had this trouble. He felt that the rollers on the t-bar were damaged due to pounding from rough roads and possibly lack of lubrication. I ordered a 1922 Buick shop manual (Ha!) from Faxon's Autoliterature. Ed Faxon is a friend of mine and a crusty, grumpy old guy like me. The book implies that the rubbing blocks on the ends of the bronze nuts maybe deformed. Mine are not flat anymore, they have an obvious curve to them. The book states that these rubbing blocks can be ground down again and reused. I would guess they are curved because the rollers have not been turning. To grind them off very much would seem to increase slack in the box. Do you or anyone else have experience with this issue? Thanks again.

Thanks for the info. I'll look into this. I have purchased from a guy in CA a couple of boxes and some mescil. parts and books. These are supposedly from his father's collection. His father passed away months ago. He could have only have gotten my information from AACA post as I have not posted anywhere else. I hope I am not being scammed. These parts etc. are supposed to arrive here Wed or Thur of this week. I will wait until then to see if these parts etc. will help me. Chuck

This is an attempt to reply to Hubert. I find this site very difficult to navigate, admittedly I am age 77, so I hope I am doing it right. I appreciate your comments about the split ring. I don't believe I have this so will have to look into getting or making one. The steering box I have appears to be the same as the pictures posted by Mark Kikta for his 1922 Buick. I purchased a couple of used Jacox boxes from Sagefinds, but they appear to be later, and the parts do not interchange. I do not know yet if perhaps the whole box could be exchanged into my 1920 Paige. Any help from you or other folks regarding parts or technical information for these boxes would be appreciated. Any technical information about the 1920 Paige Glenbrook would also be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Chuck Harvey

I am responding to Mark Kikta posting April 30, 2019 regarding the Jacox box in his 1922 Buick. The pictures of this unit appear to be identical to the box in my 1920 Paige. For what its worth as a newbie, I find this site difficult to navigate. I don't understand why there is so much repetition but I am trying to get information on possible part sources including a company called "McMaster Carr" that someone mentioned. Any maintenance information for Jacox steering boxes and/or 1920 Paige automobiles would be greatly appreciated. I have purchased a couple of Jacox boxes from Sagefinds in Cheyenne. But they appear to be later models and heavier duty than mine and the internal parts do not interchange. I would make these available to anyone who needs them.