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Tim Shea

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  1. I had some work done on my new to me 57 a couple months ago, which included work that required the automatic transmission to be drained. I am pretty new to owning a 57 T-Bird, and having a 50's era automatic transmission, so I am a novice on some related things. The repair tech said that "transmission had been worked on" so Dex/Merc transmission fluid would be appropriate, and that is what they used. Previously, I had bought a couple of containers of type F transmission fluid to have on hand. Today, I noticed the transmission to be a little low. Can I add/mix type F with Dex/Merc, or am I just asking to problems in the future. Hate to just waste the Type F, but I surely I not want to screw up the transmission over a couple of containers of fluid.
  2. The instructions do not really cover what I have because of the modifications. I called the tech folks at Pertronix and they thought what I described would work but they too weren't 100% because of the wiring modifications. I suppose the worse case if I make the changes and it does not work, Ii can put it back as it is now. I have a spare igniter module because I did not look before I ordered one (another lesson learned). I thought the points and condenser were still in the distributor as the stock coil and the resister where there. Not so. I even have a spare set of stock points and condenser. So if I screw the current igniter up, i can put everything back the way it is and write the while thing off as a lesson learned even more....
  3. Well I think I know what is going on and why the car died right after strongly firing up. While I am far below amateur level when it comes to electronics, i think with help from a fellow on another forum, this is what I have. And, looks like someone did a bit of re-wiring and did not use the original wire colors and everything is in large wrapped up bundles , so it took awhile for me to unscramble. I think this is what I maybe have going on. In the photo you can see a pinkish colored wire going to the + side of the coil. More than likely this is coming from the solenoid and that is why the car would start as I had attached that wire to the + side of the Flamethrower coil. The three wires attached at the top of the resistor include the power wire from the ignition. I believe that must be the lower wire of the spliced wires "Y" formed in the black covering. That wire is also supplying power to the choke, through the blue wire in the upper part of the "Y", and the red power wire going to the electric radiator fan. Plus it is sending power into the resistor. The black wire from the bottom of the resistor goes to the + side of the coil. This is taking the power from the the ignition, coming in from that lower wire (Ignition wire) in the "Y" at the top of the resistor, reducing the voltage, and then it goes to the + stud on the coil. That was not connected to the FlameThrower coil, which is why the car immediately stalled. Therefore, power coming from the ignition goes to the fan and choke before the power goes into the resistor.I should be able to take the lower "Y" wire from the ignition and attach it to the + stud on flamethrower coil, along with the wire from the solenoid. That should have both wires to the+ side of the coil, the one from the solenoid and the one from the ignition. I can continue to take power from the ignition to power the choke and fan, as it is now., and no longer use the resistor. At least, that is what with my very limited understanding of electronics, I think should work. OR , like 57Birdman wrote, I could just leave well enough alone and not chance screwing everything up. Just hate to have a perfectly good new part (Flame thrower coil) just sitting in a box begging to be used. Seems like the change over was only 1/2 done.........if I am right with the above, I just need to decide if I should take the gamble. "To tinker or not to tinker that is the question..".
  4. Yeah I think i will leave well enough alone. Had the parts so i thought i would give it a try.
  5. Well, I took the plunge and tried out the new Pertronix FlameThrower coil, in place of the stock coil and resister. I found that the Pertronix Igniter that was already installed in the distributor was only hooked up to the coil, and was not attached to the resister. So, I changed the coil, removed the wire that went from the positive side of the coil to the lower electrical clip on the resister. The car started just fine, and ran for a sight moment and immediately died. Tried it several times. Each the same result. Strongly fired up immediately, then immediately died. I put the old coil back in, reattached all of the wires as before, and it started and ran. I think I will leave well enough alone, and when I have some work done later at a shop, I'll have someone who actually knows what he's doing take a stab at it.Thanks for all of the info above.
  6. I have had the 57 about 4 months. After reading threads about the Pertronix 1281, and decided to buy one and mate it up with a Flame Thrower coil. Learned one lesson-Received new stuff, removed distributor cap...There is a Pertronix 1281!! However, it is hooked up to a stock coil, which is hooked up to the resister right next to it. The threads, and parts suppliers, led me to believe that the "hotter" coil was needed. However, maybe that's not really so, as the car is running. Anyway, the instructions for the 1281 and Flame Thrower contradict each other. The 1281's-keep the resister. The coil's-by pass it. The coil is 1.5 ohm, and I think that is what the resister is too. So, can I just leave the wiring set up as is, and attach the Flame Thrower coil exactly as the current one? The reason I thought this might be necessary is there are two wires leading from the top connector on the resister (I assume power out). One goes to the carburetor, the other looks like it goes to an electric fan that has been installed on the front of the radiator. I felt if I by-pass the resistor, that would negatively impact the those hook-ups as it think it would cut off power to those two wires. I called tech support at Pertronix, they are closed until Monday. Thought I would try here. I guess I could leave well enough alone. Just thought there could be a benefit to the hotter coil. If I can hook it up just as the stock, that would be perfect. As you might tell, I am below amateur when it come to electrical issues.
  7. I will be. Hafta track him back down. Also, there is a fellow who manages the Thunderbird Registry who has some information.
  8. Thanks for the ideas and suggestions. I do have the invoice, that is what spurred my interest. I belong to CTCI and have asked to have my inquiry posted. I tried the address hoping that maybe the Ford dealership was still there. Iti s now an Audi dealership, as noted above. I was rather curious since it went to Beverly Hills Ford and just about every option available, even the tonneau. I'll just keep poking around,
  9. Hello; I know it is a long shot but has anyone had any luck tracing their car to the original owner. My 1957 Thunderbird was shipped to Beverly Hills Ford on Wiltshire Blvd in January 1957. Does anyone have any suggestions on how I might find who the vehicle was sold to? I know about the late 1990s law passed by congress restricting the government from giving out info, so I figure that CA DMV is out. I thought maybe there might be another way.
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