MacMike

Many thanks to those who responded - most helpful advice. On advice, I will omit the wedges in the new rebuild. Make the alignment adjustments according to the manual specifications, and hopefully not require and wedges at all with the new chassis, new front axel and new set springs. Now have a scanned version of 1927-28 Workshop Manual, as recommended. Just about to install new bushings in the spindles, ream to fit new king pins; add new bearings + shims as required. Need also to fit new bushings in the front brake backing plate universal yoke bearing assemblies, and universal yoke assemblies as well. on completion, the final installation of front axel assembly, new springs in the new chassis can proceed. Will report the outcome.

I am transferring a rebuilt 1927 Buick 27/25 front axel assembly onto another 1927 Buick 27/25 newly restored chassis, but without the old springs. I have new re-set springs for the new build. When removing the front axel assembly from the doner car, I found wedges stamped with a “4”, thin to the front, under each leaf set. I gather these are likely used on the doner car to correct Castor and reduce any rear axel-drive shaft vibration. I am now uncertain if these wedges should be installed, with the same orientation, under the new spring set on the rebuild chassis. Does anyone have any experience with this situation or advice about their inclusion or exclusion in the rebuild? Keen to hear of any such dealings.

Welcome Paul, Looks like you will enjoy your retirement to the fullest. Great acquisitions here in Australia. In addition to joining this forum, may I suggest you think about joining the Buick Car Club of Australia - probably the QLD branch if you are not already a member.. I can recommend the local scene as well as here for a lot of useful local information. There are a few 1928 Roadsters in the local flock. Happy restoration time ahead.

Welcome, Great looking Buick! I am restoring one right now and it will look almost the same as your Buick in the photo. Reached about the 75% mark. Eagerly looking to finishing the project and getting behind the wheel. Agree with the suggested likely holes in the tube as being a culprit in your woes; check that area early. The image in my avatar is the aspirational end point of my restoration. That car was restored in the late 1970s and is still going strong and has had a few new owners along the way. They are a leisurely drive, nothing like my Maserati😂, but still fun. Bit slower than my 1938 Buick too. Enjoy your time with your aging beauty!

Hello CharlesBuick, Yes, as I mentioned in my recent post, I still have a few available. It should fit your 1925/25. Just let me know if you would like me to send you a quotation/invoice via your email, payable via PayPal if you decide to purchase. Your address would enable me to provide an exact amount of postage. The all inclusive price is $320 AUD, unless there are very special shipping requirements. Perhaps shipping is a little less to NZ. Trust this is helpful information for you. kind regards, Michael.

Hello Motorpirate, Yes, I still have a few available. The cost including taxes, packaging, handling and postage is $320AUD. That is around $215 US. Payment, should you decide to purchase one, is via PayPal. I will provide you with an exact amount by way of a quotation invoice via your email address if you are able to provide me with an address that allows me to more accurately check postage. My last horn button supplied to another member went to California for 1927 restoration. I have provided a few here in Australia to restorers as well. I believe you will find it is the unit you require because I made the horn button to use on my own 1927/25. The button was used on all 1925-26-27 models. My original was as you have described yours to be. I obtained a complete original on loan and used those details for the reproduction assembly. kind regards, Michael.

Hello David, Welcome to the forum. I am a member of the Sydney Club but reside in Canberra. You are on the right track with seeking either a ‘37 or ‘38 Buick. They are great cars and will give you a great deal of enjoyment. They are not like todays cars….they are better🤔; They were made to last and represented fine engineering in their time. They are relatively easy to work on and parts are mostly easy to acquire. My ‘38 8/40 has been with me since the late 1970s but only fully restored a few years ago. I wish you luck with your search and hope to see you posting about your journey along the way. All the best, Michael.

Hello MichaelH, Thanks for your message. i still have a few complete assemblies for sale. I am in Australia; where are you located? Have you examined the assembly details in my post to decide if this assembly is the same as yours? From my earlier, investigations I believe this is a standard assembly applicable to 1925-1927, and I am also of the view that its the same for both Standard and Master. Beyond that, of course, are other model variants within that time range that it may also fit but I have not verified the fit for the entire range. But it seems logical that it will fit other model variants because they all, as far as I am aware used the same steering column structures. kind regards, Michael.

Looking very nice. Congratulations

Hello Phil, welcome to this wonderful forum where resides great experience and very helpful members. Your account of early vehicle ownership is most interesting and I can only say that you should have kept them all. The wonders of hindsight are still amazing. I do hope you find the car that you are hoping for and join in the forum to share your knowledge and experiences. Best of luck with your search. Regards, Michael

I am currently restoring one of my two 1927 model 25 Buicks with original body work by the Holden Motor Company, in Australia. Approximately 25% remains to complete the current restoration work. Along the way, I discovered that I needed a complete horn button assembly in a serviceable condition but I was not able to find one. I was able to find one in a sad, unserviceable state. This at least showed me the various components that made up a complete functioning assembly. As a result of none seemingly being available, I decided to disassemble the unserviceable unit that I had been given and reproduce each of the components parts to make a new reproduction assembly. I have now reproduced a complete horn assembly to suit a 1925-26-27 Buick steering wheel mounting point. The reproduction unit consists of reproduced original brass contact components, and a new compression spring. Some non-metallic parts, namely the horn button and central mounting block which were originally made from “Micata” but now have been made from a substituted modern plastic (PLA) by using 3D printing techniques. The components are hand finished and polished were necessary then assembled. The completed horn assembly was mounted into its steering column position along with the necessary component electrical wiring and connections to ensure complete electrical functionality to a connected horn. Testing demonstrated that all connections and reproduction components were functional and the horn assembly performed as required. Having made one complete assembly and recognising the lack of availability of these horn button assemblies, I decided to make some additional units. I now have a few extra complete assemblies. Feel free to contact me if you are in need of a reproduction assembly. Photos of the assembly are provided for your perusal.

Hi Rodney, Just had another thought about a stuck needle valve or float in the carby. Worth a look if you can remove the carby top to view the float chamber and valve to check for fouling. Regards, Michael

Hi Rodney, Sorry to hear about your misbehaving '38. Given that previously you have done all the most obvious renewal/ checks, I would suggest you check to see if you have spark at the plugs or even at the points. This was my recent problem. i recently had a very similar problem with my 38; just as you have described but it finally went dead totally no starterator resonse but I could get it cranking by shorting the starter solenoid, but it just would not fire. I checked all the items you mentioned. I run a Stromberg aerobat carby which I had completely rebuilt. I also installed a 6volt electric pump at the fuel tank outlet last year. So I did not suspect any of those components. I did identify a problem at the "new" coil HT resulting in no spark at the points. Had good leads too. Replaced the capacitor inside the distributor pior to suspecting the new coil. Just to to be sure to be sure I now have a new distributor cap, a new coil and points. I have not installed them yet. I was also suspecting a perished diaphram or bad points in my vacuum staterator, but until I restore a spark I have will not delved into that bit yet. My first suggestion...check for spark and check the coil. Hope that gives you something positive to follow up. Let me know how you get on. At least you have some nice photos😁😁😁 Regards, Michael

Hi Rod, Great! Thank you for showing your photo of your wood replacement for your '25. This gives me great insight about generally where I am heading. Your construction looks very neat👌. I hope my effort reaches a similar standard. Did you varnish your new wood after fixing it into its final position, and prior to undertaking the interior refurbishment. I was wondering if that was a good idea thereby expecting to reduce future movement of the body/panel after completion? Enjoy your MidCo life! Regards, Michael

Hi AussieBuick, Hope your journey is smooth and enjoyable; however a few bumps are to be expected. Thanks for your sound advice with regards Master Parts book. I saw a number of references to it during my roamings through the forums and promply ordered one. Also managed to get a NOS service and repair manual. I am sure these will be help relieve stress when there are unexpected progress bumps to overcome. The expert sellers are sometimes a source of unexpected stress as I have also learned. Thanks Norm for your encouragement, interest and advice. Lets hope will will both be drivers of our finished projects in the not to distant future. kind regards, Michael