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NailheadBob

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Posts posted by NailheadBob

  1. Possibly @Bloo might have some knowledge on this subject.

     

    Oldsmobile Crankshaft part listings:

     

    Group #0.646 Crankshaft part #409511 fits 1937 thru 1939 8 cyl,       part #412625 fits 1940 & 1941 8 cyl,        and part #416847 fits 1942 thru 1948 8 cyl.

     

    So my thinking is the hole in rear of crankshaft must be larger diameter (why different part numbers for crankshaft) to mate up flywheel/torus cover (compared to a stick shift car crankshaft)

     

     

    Cadillac torus cover from 1941 thru 1948 had 30 bolt holes

     

    Oldsmobile torus cover had a 40 hole gasket part #8600088 for 1940 & 1941,      and 2nd type part #8600515  (30 hole from 1941 thru 1948)

     

    Later I will look at same for Pontiac master parts book at   "pontiacsafari.com>mpc"

     

    Bob

     

    EDIT: Paul Marsh Hydra-Matic transmission service manual #HM-1001 (RED cover) shows torus cover with 30 bolt holes.

  2. Listed in the 1950 Oldsmobile chassis parts book:

     

    Group #0.666 Flywheel H.T. part #8601426 fits 1940 thru 1947 * 

    * if used on 1940 or 1941 w/40 bolt hole type fluid coupler cover must use 1942 type cover part #8601427 and gasket part #8602257

     

     

    Group #0.683 Bell Housing part #414123 fits 1940 thru 1942 / part #419504 fits 1946 thru 1948 EXC 1948 - 98  / part #555378 fits 1948 -98

     

    Bob

     

    EDIT: Parts manual shows for Flywheel, has either a 30 Bolt hole type fluid coupler cover      OR

     

     40 Bolt hole type fluid coupler cover

     

     

  3. On 3/31/2024 at 5:22 PM, MarkL said:

    Thanks for your quick responses! 39_Buick, are both sides the same? I only have the (1) strut that turns down with the spring see O and Q  on exploded view.. the other piece is flat and was in a box of parts that was in the trunk when I got the car… thanks

    Group #5.149 Lever, Parking Brake (In Rear Brake) part #1310548 (Right) and part #1310549 (Left) and only fit 1939 (40-60) Series

     

     

    Bob

  4. Try “Delco Joe” 

    Joe Hudacek in Wisconsin 

     

    715-392-6169

     

    #3142694 gasket, between core and valve fits 1959 thru 1962 looks like o’ring

     

    Bob

     

    EDIT: 1959 Buick lists 2 different heater control valves 

    #3146294 for manual control on e-Bay

     

    #1193224 for automatic control on e-Bay

  5. I know this a very OLD post BUT,       and I see the Group #4.901 part #918866 fits 1957 & 1958 Buicks (it is listed in the 1958 Buick Accessories manual/book).

     

     

    @Pete Phillips, is this still available?

     

    Cadillac used this from 1950 thru 1954 Group #4.5000 Brake Package, Power (HYDROVAC) part #1462266 1950-1953, and part #1462157 for 1954, I know part number is different from Buick (maybe because of attaching brackets and parts) BUT booster unit looks Identical..

     

    Bob

  6. 4 hours ago, Mudbone said:

    I have given this a lot of thought and I decided to change the color on Project 66R…….

    What do you think?

     

     

    yellow022.jpg

    I love your change of colors,

     

    I will be over to help you do the color change APRIL FOOLS

     

    Bob

    • Haha 1
  7. Gary sent me a group photo from the Buick National 2022 in Lisle, IL. and I will attach it here,

     

    Pictured from left to right:

    Gary Klecka BCA #1955 (also known on this forum as @AK Buickman), Larry Kuczek BCA # 826 (Larry recently passed away), Glenn Anderson BCA 2474, Jim Flaherty BCA #529, and Larry Guetschow BCA #2094 (Larry is on this forum but I don't know his handle/forum name)

     

    These are all LONG time members of the Chicagoland Chapter of the BCA.

     

    Bob 

     

    EDIT: Anyone who attended the 2022 BCA Nationals would understand the umbrellas (lot of rain on early Saturday to make judging very difficult) just ask @Pete Phillips OR @lancemb.

     

     

     

    IMG_0411.png

    IMG_0410.png

    • Like 2
  8. On 3/24/2024 at 7:44 AM, Mudbone said:

                   Whatever works for you. The first time I saw my dad changing the rear snow tires on the 56 Buick he told me to pull up the lug nuts until they squeak, and then you know they are tight. (Never had a wheel fall off) Then I go to Denver Automotive and Diesel collage and everything had to be lightly lubricated and torque to the proper specs. After collage I started working at a Sears Automotive center. We changed tires using impact gun. No lubrication. (Never had a wheel fall off) I then started working at a farm equipment dealer. All engine repairs we lightly lubricated and used torque wrench. We used impact guns on everything else. Then one day one of the mechanics used anti seize on the lug nuts on a big front wheel assist tractor. (Impact gun) I received a call later that day that the left front wheel passed him on the road home. All the stud threads were stretched out and damaged. Now for the last fifteen years at Bobcat we have been using engine oil on the studs and an impact gun. (Never had a wheel fall off) Then we had a student working there part time and we had a wheel come loose and damage a wheel. Now we have to use “90 weight oil” on the threads and torque them to proper specs. Just yesterday I ran into a guy that retired from the local John Deere dealer and we started chatting about the good old days and he said they used anti seize on everything! Whatever works for you……….

    I worked at a Firestone tire store way back, and the owners decided we were all going to use anti-seize on all wheel studs, we also repaired semi-truck/trailer, road grader tires, 2 days after implementing the NEW anti-seize policy we had out first semi-trailer tire flew off and hit another car, Wuuu that was bad.

     

    NO MORE USING anti-seize on wheel studs anymore.

     

    Bob

     

     

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 1
  9. Could you post photo of part with plastic shell on it so I can send it to a NOS vendors.

     

     

    I will contact the Technical advisor for 1974 thru 1977 Riviera  from the Buick club to get his thoughts and possible contact person that may have the module.

     

    Did you contact the Buick Farm to see if they had part?

     

    Bob

    • Like 1
  10. Maybe this may help, from 1975 Buick Chassis and Body parts catalog (effective April 1983) 

     

    Group #13.090U Harness, electric door lock wiring       part #8915727 Harness, auto. elect.dr. locks (incl. logic box & relays)  BUT no logic box or relays for electric door locks that I could find.

     

    Maybe you could only get this part (logic box with relays) in 1975 with the wiring harness?

     

     

    From 1976-1977 Buick Chassis and Body parts catalog (Effective June 1977)       They do show Logic module and relay for body wiring harness (for C, E w/auto. dr. lock)

     

    Group #13.095 Circuit breaker-logic module-relay, body wiring/     Relay  part #8917266 C, E w/auto. dr. lock (1976 my)

     

    AND Logic module part #8917247  C, E w/auto. dr. lock (76 & 77 my)

     

    Have you checked all circuits on your module #8917246-C with a OHM meter?

     

    I don't see any burnt/separated spots on the circuits BUT possible solder break (poor contact OR maybe got to hot and melted a little) 3rd terminal from left on second row of 7 terminals (Maybe re-solder if that is a break in contact) I don't see any reason this could not work from the photo I see.

     

    Have you checked all wiring inputs from your service manual wiring diagram to this module?

     

     

    If you would like you could ship me your logic module and I could inspect and test it for you, just pay the shipping both ways.

     

    Here is another source for a replacement part:   car-part.com    and add all your car information and then fill out a request form and they will contact you about the part you need.

     

    I hope this may help 

     

    Bob

     

     

    • Like 3
  11. From January 2023 post on @old-tank same issue with E-Bugle:

     

    I know this is a old post BUT did you ever get this resolved?

     

    I have the same issue, I went back through all of 2023 and ALL were blurry and most had blank pages, I contacted Cornerstone and they were NO help, I asked for contact information of the 3rd party NO they would not give that to me.

     

    I also contacted Melanie Mauser from the (CCBCA) Chicagoland Chapter of the Buick Club, she was willing to listen and help me, but she also contacted cornerstone and again NO answers.

     

    NOW all the ebugles are gone for me, there is NO listing of any, so I will not be able to complain about the blurry ones anymore?

     

    I am able to view other club magazines?

     

    I am not the best on computers, but I used to be able to view the ebugle, I probably could get my 7 year old grandson to figure it out, but I should not have to.

     

    Maybe I will just drop out of the Buick club? ( I don't need more magazines as I have the Bugles back to 1983) 

     

    I am getting very frustrated at this point.

     

     

     

    Today 03/18/2024 my issues with google chrome continue with the BCA E-Bugle and is growing with other on-line websites, I contacted Apple/MAC on-line support and they told me my MAC computer is obsolete (I purchased in late 2014) BUT walked me through an update, my operating system #OS x 10.1 needed to be updated and after the Apple/Mac update I now have operating system #OS x 10.13.6 now with this latest update I now can view all of the E-Bugles and are clear and legible. Hoorayyyyyy. Sooooo my operating system on my computer was the fault of all my issues, I posted this incase future BCA members have this issue and give them a area to look at first. @JohnD1956 was kind enough to reach out to me by P.M. to try to help me and I thank you John.

     

    Bob

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 2
  12. On 3/15/2024 at 7:19 AM, EmTee said:

    I'd try adding a nut and washer on the exposed threaded section.  Use the nut to push against the turnbuckle adjuster.  Or fabricate a replacement for that turnbuckle adjuster using a pair of nuts & washers with a spacer in-between.  I think it can be saved!  ;)

     

    Adding the nut and washer would be the easiest, or you could tap and add a larger treaded shaft with a reducer to the original threaded shaft.

     

    Just my 2cents

     

    Not a bad tool from J.C.Whitney in my opinion, they have a location about 45 minutes from me, and we used to go from time to time, but now it is open for on-line sales only.

     

    Bob

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