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w Ranard

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Everything posted by w Ranard

  1. The 1910 Maytag is in the Antique Car Museum of Iowa located in Coralville, IA. You can see some videos of it on the museum webpage.
  2. Would you happen to have a Splitdorf Model D?
  3. I won't be at Hershey this year. Can you give width and height dimensions and a photo? Thanks.
  4. I used PPG 71791 Regency Red which is a 1976 Jaguar color. It is on a 1909 Mason and the color is the closest match to the original color "Red Wine". I had a rear wheel with some loose spokes and decided it was time to replace the wheels before something catastrophic happened. I have seen too many pictures of cars after the spokes have broken and I didn't want to risk of damaging the car or causing personal injury. The car was painted a bright red in the 1950s and I made the decision to paint the wheels the original color. I am glad I did since we really like the new color too.
  5. I have not contacted Noah Stutzman since Feb 2021. Although I would not say he is hard to contact, he didn't answer the phone. I always left a message and he returned my call. Noah gave me a tour of his shop when I picked up my wheels and I am very impressed with his work. He also makes wood steering wheels and the examples he had looked very nice. I would not hesitate to have him make my wheels. I attached a photo of one of the finished wheels.
  6. Al, I did something similar last year to paint my new wood wheels from Stutzman with a HVLP gun. I used 5/8 inch diameter 1045 bar and turned 8 inches of threads on one end of each bar for the hub. I cut the shafts to length, milled a flat and used a coupling to mount to the motor on the other end. Since I wanted to leave the bearing races in the hubs, I purchased rubber stoppers that were the appropriate diameter to fit in the race from each side. After punching holes in the stoppers, I used washers and a 7/16 nut on each side of the hub so I could squeeze the stoppers to hold the wheel on the shaft. This worked well and the wheel did not spin on the shaft. I found a double shafted, high torque motor on Amazon so I could use one motor for 2 wheels. I wanted to use 12V so I wouldn’t have as much risk of a spark when painting. I was unsure what speed would work and guessed at 5 RPM which was OK but I would have preferred it be a little slower. They had various speeds available and now I would use the 3 RPM if I was buying them again. The motor has a gearbox and they gave specs for the torque which I calculated would work for my weight of wheels. The motor I used from Amazon was: “uxcell Double Shaft Worm Gear Motor DC 12V 5RPM High Torque Speed Reduction Motor with Metal Gearbox”. I used pillow blocks to support the shafts on a wood frame which was mounted to my work stands. I found it was a fun project to build and I am planning to use them again when I have Stutzman make another set of wheels for my other car.
  7. Pre10 - Did you make the ball or the nut? I am wondering about the nut. Thanks.
  8. The nut in the photo has cracks and needs to be replaced. I am looking for information on what others have done to replace these nuts. The nut is 1-7/16 inch across the flats and the ball is 1-1/8 inch diameter. Although I am not sure of the original material, it appears to be a machined casting. Are these nuts available anywhere? I can have it machined out of 1045 (not heat treated) but am not sure if this will stand up. Any help will be appreciated.
  9. I just bought a 1 hp 1725 rpm Grizzly buffer that has long shafts. I really like it.
  10. I sent you a pm about the 1910 Maytag.
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