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2carb40

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Posts posted by 2carb40

  1. Thanx so much! I bought a replacement seat becuz the seat in the '39 I bought has been covered with new cloth, but when I sat on it I realized it just had the new cloth put on over deteriorated padding and springs that were no longer even covered with the padding. Uncomfortable! Trying to get a usable seat bottom out of combing two somehow. Heard the cloth cover rather difficult to remove & replaced.

  2. It's 1994 Jeep Gran Cherokee 6cyl stk. Approx $125.00@ OReilys press plate & clutch disc match perfect. The original had a wavy spring steel insert about 99%cracked, if yer lucky, cuz then U don't waste time with poor engineering that no one has! At the price it's tough to find a rebuilder competing with Peking parts! They also had throughout bearing for 21 bucks working fine iny '39 Spec.

  3. On 1/1/2024 at 2:38 PM, J.H.Boland said:

    My wife took this photo of me behind your parts counter reliving my days as a parts guy, on a recent visit our HASC region paid to your shop. You have your work cut out for you !  Jim 

    Jim reinacting his partsman days.JPG

    I often make a similar reference, "You have your phun cut out for U!

    • Like 1
    • Haha 1
  4. On 8/17/2013 at 2:26 PM, Pete Phillips said:

    Looking for a good, used center portion--the part that attaches to the two end portions--of the 320 straight eight exhaust manifold. Have several front portions that I can trade, or will buy outright. For a 1949 Roadmaster, but any 1936-1952 will fit if it is for the 320 engine. Pete Phillips, BCA #7338, Leonard, Texas

     

    On 8/17/2013 at 2:26 PM, Pete Phillips said:

    Looking for a good, used center portion--the part that attaches to the two end portions--of the 320 straight eight exhaust manifold. Have several front portions that I can trade, or will buy outright. For a 1949 Roadmaster, but any 1936-1952 will fit if it is for the 320 engine. Pete Phillips, BCA #7338, Leonard, Texas

    Hey Pete

              Believe the slant on the center section before 1939 is different on those exhaust/intake parts are not mix & match . In '39 the slant of the engine Regards the frame changed requiring an elbow shape on the intake Complete sys(ex&intk)could work by 'shimming' back to level, but I wouldn't try putting 38 older pts with '39 & newer. From addled memory, please verify! Good luck! 

    • Like 1
  5. On 6/17/2013 at 10:15 AM, brad54 said:

    Anyone with a '54-'56 Buick knows two things: They came from the factory with a front sway bar, and the front sway bar is a Tinker Toy.

    Stock bars are .69-inch diameter, with a 113lb/ft spring rate.

    Wanting something that kept me in the seat around corners, I started manufacturing 1.00-inch bars for these cars, with a 500 lb/ft spring rate. I could have gone up in diameter, but 1.125-inch bumps it up to an 800-lb spring rate, which I thought was too stiff for our Buicks.

    These are true bolt-ins, attaching to the frame and control arms with the factory mounting points. It'll take you longer to get the tools out and get the car up on jack stands than it'll take to install the new sway bar.

    My sway bar kits include a sway bar powder-coated black powder-coated to modern OE specs and standards, black urethane bushings, and all new plated hardware.

    These bars are proudly made in America to modern OE specifications.

    $219, plus shipping.

    For more info, send me an email at brad56@windstream.net, or call (706) 424-5035.

    -Bradpost-30920-1431419527_thumb.jpg

    Thanx Brad, Keep em comin', great upgrade. Careful you might lose you ships captain status. Lol

    • Like 1
  6. I have a 1955 Cent 2dr ht. It currently has a 1956 dynaflow transmission in it that I installed. The 1956 Dynaflow is 1" longer than the 1955Spec&Cent

    You can install the 56 dyna in a 1955 Super or Roadmaster much easier becuz those transmissions were equiped with a longer tailshaft. I took care of the extra length proble by studying the different torque balls used in that era. I used the 1948-52 torque ball which is shorter than the 55 Sp/Cent. I noticed my 55trans cross member was 'offset', I also had a 1955

    Standard trans crossmeber which is straight, but still needed to have the bolt holes slightly modified. When I brought the torque tube and put the splined end in the U-joint it stopped with an approx 3/8" gap. Since ai had installed a shorter toque ball the splined front of the driveshaft was too long and ran into the center of U-joint yoke, so I pulled the driveshaft back out and shortened a bit more than 3/8" and chamfered the end as original. The trans fluid cooler on 55s is mounted at the back of trans. The 56 has cooling lines running to the radiator. I bought a remote cooler and installed in front of radiator. The reason the 56 is longer is Buick added another stator and needed more room in the bellhousing. It performs better at takeoff cuz they changed the ratio affecting acceleration. The fine splines in the U-joint evidently had quite a few failures, some being twisted like a piece of licorice, probably from more stress on the joint from increased HP and the torque multiplication with the changes in the convertor. Just a SWAG((scientific wild ass guess)! Good luck! I consider it an upgrade until it proves itself otherwise.IMG_20150501_193749.jpg.234ef7922019013852d6999797a387fd.jpgIMG_20160503_135601.jpg.ded06910c92bf7cceacbea5e90616aa3.jpg

  7. On 8/4/2023 at 5:48 PM, daniel boeve said:

    Just bought a 1940 Buick Phaeton and i would like to buy this part , mine is cracket ...Its on the 2-door and 4-door cvt .Any ideas ? Thanks

    IMG_5201 (1).JPG

    Yes, it's on both 2dr & 4dr converts and they are different lengths depending how many doors. I think the 4drs are longer. Don't quote me yet, I'll look at my brand new repo and compare it to my two door. Yes, it's available if it's 4dr.

    • Like 1
  8. Having parted out a number of 'unsalvageable' 1940 Buick Supers, I have saved those particular factory lines, knowing that exact difficulty you describe. It's one part I don't mind reusing after a sufficient bath in Evapo-Rust. There are not to many other things I'd consider using without being concerned about a residual amount possibly remaining during future use. Just a couple pennies thought from doing this repair.

    • Like 1
  9. On 7/20/2023 at 8:22 PM, Eddie-O said:

    2carb,,

    No I did pay to have the radio shipped back. Normally I would be glad to offer it up, however since I’m still searching for an SS working or not as long as it is in physical good shape, I’m hanging on to it just in case I may need the parts myself. If that’s not the case when ever I do acquire one I’d be glad to offer it up. Would have no use for it otherwise. Of course if I do find one you can bet I know where to send it to get fixed regardless of the wait time and where not to send it. Two years in a row at both Hershey and Carlisle and no SS radios good or bad. Not only are they a special breed to fix, but also nearly impossible to find in any condition. I’m at the point of paying ALMOST any amount for a decent radio. 

    Perfectly understandable and I'm glad your still hopeful to find another. I wish you all the luck in the world in that endeavor!

  10. Greetings

           I sold that radio to him as cheaply as I could afford to. It would be nice if you consider your SS unrepairable anyway, that maybe  your radio would have something usable for his repair. That is, of course, unless you didn't bother to get it back from the butcher, which is understandable if you deemed it unrepairable and too expensive to bother shipping. Just a thought so as to have that rare radio at least to possibly have some value as a 'tissue donor'. Just a 'couple pennies' of my thoughts.

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