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36Special

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Posts posted by 36Special

  1. 7 hours ago, MCHinson said:

     

     

     

    I am the newsletter editor and webmaster of the 36-38 Buick Club, I replied to him in this discussion. He and I have also communicated by direct email.  

    Yes, Matt and I have spoken a few times actually!

    • Thanks 1
  2. 19 hours ago, Bloo said:

    Although I would get it running first and said as much, I can't believe we are discouraging the idea of restoring this when the original poster has been warned about the time and cost of such an undertaking, and still has his mind set on doing it. Is this not a restoration site?

     

    A 1936 Buick is a WOODEN body, with a metal skin. The wood, if bad, is really a bigger problem than anything else I see here. I don't mean to be discouraging, it is certainly possible to fix. I am learning how as we speak.

     

    Where are the 1936 Buick owners? IIRC there are a few who frequent these forums.

     

    I'm not discouraged over it. In the end, I know the undertaking I am entering into. I did ask for any information regarding the places I could get parts and such. Lots of people have offered up what they "think" I should do with it. Everyone has been heard and replied to. No big deal. 

     

    Yes he did inform me that is had a wooden body when we talked about it. I am not rushing into anything at the moment. It's going to be a long project.

    • Thanks 1
  3. 20 hours ago, RivNut said:

    Have you asked yourself yet "Why did my father-in-law buy an older car with a more modern driveline?"   Maybe that's what he wanted in the first place and you would be honoring him by continuing to work on what he first started.  If he were looking for an older original car wouldn't he have bought one in the first place?  Finishing whatvhe started will be a lot less costly and you'll have a car that can be driven anywhere at any time (once you get an air conditioning unit installed.  Unless you grew up driving and riding in cars without a/c, you're in for some miserable drives in the summer without it.

     

    Ed

    He bought it on a whim. There is nothing the the reason of this rhyme. In the end, it's what I want to do with the car. He has not invested anything into it nor has he offered any advice on what he would like seen done to it.

    As for riding in a car with no AC, been there done that. I know what that's like. If I continue to just restore it to close to original as possible, there will be no AC, if I continue on the path that the car is in. I'll think about adding an AC unit.

    • Like 1
  4. 1 minute ago, 8E45E said:

    The body work and preparation, I do myself, and I actually enjoy the fun and challenge of working on it.  A mainstream bodyshop into high turnover would NEVER put the time and effort into a thorough restoration.  The final paint, however, I do leave for a body shop as they are equipped with the new HVLP paint guns coupled with the proper downdraft spray booth one needs to achieve a top quality finish one always wishes for their vehicle.

     

    Craig

    Paint would be left to the body shop. As well as any major repairs. I don't weld, but I can replace body parts of course. I worked for GM for 13 years.

  5. 3 minutes ago, 8E45E said:

    One would miss all the fun of restoring it YOURSELF in your OWN garage with photos to prove it by farming it out to a restoration shop.  Of course, one does save a considerable amount of money on labor, but not necessarily on parts and materials; especially if you want nothing less than 'the best' for your vintage car.  I did fork over a considerable amount to have a new padded dash made for one of my Studebakers, and have paid a figure for some almost unobtainable NOS trim that would cause a few wives to freak out at them if they ever found out.

     

    Craig

    I would do a majority of it myself. Some things I would not be able to do and would be handed off to the professionals. Most likely the upholstery parts and body work. 

     

    Scott

  6. 14 hours ago, RivNut said:

    Scott,

     

    Out of curiosity, I called the CTC Auto Ranch and asked the counter guy about the three 1938 Buick Special Parts cars.  He told me that he'd sell a complete rolling chassis w/ engine for $2,000.  You'd still have to rebuild everything but it might be cheaper than trying to find individual parts especially if you don't know what the parts are and what parts are missing.  For him, a rolling chassis would include the body but no fenders, hood, bumpers, or trunk lid.  I'm only posting this as an FYI.

     

    Ed

    Thank you for that information Ed, I really appreciate it. My wife and I are in the discussion stages of what we're going to do with it regarding restoration.

     

    Scott

  7. 8 minutes ago, Walt G said:

    Craig is right on that point, they also may want to part with the wheels ,gas tank, and possibly the steering column etc

    Great thinking Craig, thanks for adding that.

    Walt

    I am planning to slide under it this weekend coming up so I can get a better look at what might have been replaced. Of course the warmer weather brought all the rain and now that the rain is gone, it's been in the low 20's...lol

  8. On 1/18/2020 at 9:48 AM, EmTee said:

     

    Put me in the "clean-up, repair and drive" camp.  Once you get it recommissioned, if it performs as well as your father-in-law said, it may be worth considering a "hybrid" restoration -- restore the appearance to original but keep the modern mechanicals.  This approach would make even more sense if you intend to drive the car significant distances on Interstate highways.  The original drive train will not be as eager to operate at 65 ~ 70 mph for extended periods.  This two-step approach will let you reconsider the final plan for the car before you begin the comprehensive disassembly needed for a completely original restoration.

     

    Also - consider that if your father-in law personally performed the chassis and drive train modifications, that history will be lost once the car is restored to original.  If preserving some of that history is important, then a "cosmetic restoration" makes even more sense (to me, anyway)...

    My father-in-law was not the person who made the modifications of the drive train/chassis.

  9. 8 minutes ago, old-tank said:

    If you decide to get that modified mess running, be sure it is safe to drive.  Some modification will make an old car like this more safe...others not so much.

    I already had that in the back of my mind. My father-in-law said he was was driving it when he first got it and it seemed to drive real nice, even took it out on the highway and got up to 70 mph. But yeah, once I can get under it and take a good look around, that is a priority!

    • Like 1
  10. 2 minutes ago, 39BuickEight said:

    Body work/paint and interior are over $15,000 EACH if you pay someone to do it all.  But, if you do the labor yourself and find a good parts car and painter, those numbers come way down, if needed.  It's about being resourceful if money is a problem.

    Well, it's not like I have $15,000 to $18,000 just laying around which is why I would take my time doing the restore. I'm all about resourceful. I've learned that from my beautiful wife! 

    • Like 1
  11. 11 hours ago, gdmn852 said:

    Hello, besides my 49 Buick I also have a 71 MGB that I enjoy driving I have put more in it than it’s worth but that seems to be a common thing among MGB and Triumphs owners,we enjoy driving them,and how much they are worth is incidental. I have been interested in antique cars since the late 60,s it seemed back then people enjoyed driving their cars to shows and touring more so than the money value.

    Most of the time from what I've heard, you don't ever get the money back you put in, and that's the least of my worries as I don't plan on selling it. I've got some time yet to really decide what I want to do with it, but still leaning towards the restoration.

    • Like 1
  12. 3 minutes ago, 39BuickEight said:

    I love your determination.  The best advice so far is the parts car.  It’s ok to spend twice what you pay for a parts car, just to get it to you lol.  I recently completed a frame off restoration on a similar car that’s not worth much, but it’s about the journey for people like me (us?), not the value.  I made great use of a parts car.  In fact I sold so many extra parts, that the parts car ended up making me money.  That said, using proper money and time management, connections in the body shop world, and strategy, it can work.  I have under $15,000 in my car, and hours and hours of precious memories working on it with my father, along with learning the ins and out of proper car restoration.

    Billy, 

     

    Appreciate the kind words. I agree on the parts car and the fact that for me\us, it's about the journey and not the value. I have unfinished business because when I had my 1970 Gran Sport, I never got to finish that one. The car is not leaving the family during my lifetime as I am committed to getting it going and restored then when the time comes, passing it down to my step son. I am not interested in selling it. Many people won't agree with this, and to them I say, thank you for the advice, but it's what I want to do. Could I buy one that needs no restoration, sure. I could figure out how to make that happen but it's not as satisfying as when you recreate something yourself. 

     

    JMHO

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 2
  13. 4 minutes ago, gdmn852 said:

    Couldn’t restore one for that price, it’s too bad that that many of the pre war cars don’t have a bigger following,very attractive styling.

    Couldn't agree more on both accounts.

  14. 19 hours ago, Walt G said:

    My advice is to find a reasonably complete 1936 Special parts car with the correct chassis, engine, suspension, steering  etc that perhaps is to far gone body wise with rust. Remove the rusty body and restore the complete chassis, engine etc. THEN use the car you now have to start to transfer/donate  its body, fenders etc onto a restored running chassis . Yes, a lot of work , but it will save you a lot of effort trying to find parts ( since you do not have a stock car to look at to see what parts you need /fit etc)

    Walt

    It does make perfect sense!

  15. 1 minute ago, RivNut said:

    Makes a lot of sense.   You'll be money and time ahead.  Buying everything you need part by part will prove to be very expensive and consume a lot of time just looking.  I think that all you'll be able to use from the car you have will be the body and seats.  To make the car the way it now sits, the builder had to of hacked into everything else.  

     

    There is a 36 - 38 Buick Club.  I'm. Getting it will be a great source of parts and information.  www.3638buickclub.org

    Ed, 

     

    I get it. Will toy with the idea. Will need to find something someone isn't looking for an arm and leg for that needs restoration for that. Not looking to over pay for it or I could just drop the money for one that's restored already if that was the case. Not looking to do that. I will be doing something with this car, that I know.

    • Thanks 1
  16. 4 minutes ago, Walt G said:

    My advice is to find a reasonably complete 1936 Special parts car with the correct chassis, engine, suspension, steering  etc that perhaps is to far gone body wise with rust. Remove the rusty body and restore the complete chassis, engine etc. THEN use the car you now have to start to transfer/donate  its body, fenders etc onto a restored running chassis . Yes, a lot of work , but it will save you a lot of effort trying to find parts ( since you do not have a stock car to look at to see what parts you need /fit etc)

    Walt

    Walt, 

     

    Does make some sense. 

  17. 1 minute ago, 8E45E said:

    Its the middle of winter.

     

    Start your parts search NOW, for the correct 1936 components besides the drivetrain, including instrument cluster, steering column, etc.

     

    That way, you'll have it 'in stock' in your basement when you're ready for that stage of the restoration.

     

    Craig

    Craig, 

     

    That was exactly my goal. Although middle of winter here in NC is pretty mild, lol. I have been researching parts options and availability since the weekend, lol.

    • Like 1
  18. 6 hours ago, KongaMan said:

    If you want a stock 36 Buick, this may not be the best place to start.  If that's your unshakeable goal, your best bet might be to wash it, vacuum it, get it running, and sell it for seed money to put yourself on a cheaper, faster, less challenging, and more rewarding path.

     

    OTOH, wash it, vacuum it, get it running, and drive the crap out of it might provide entertainment for the summer.  Then sell it. ;) 

    KM, 

     

    Yeah, selling it isn't an option. Like I stated previously, I am going to pass it down to my step son regardless of whatever I decide to do with the restoration because it was his grandfather's vehicle.

     

    I am up to the challenge of putting this baby back on the road.

  19. 14 hours ago, 60FlatTop said:

    The car looks like a lot of attention to detail was done in the modifications. And there appear to be a lot.

     

    Maybe it would be a good idea to look at the money you have in hand for the restoration and figure how much of that you could use to go through the car as is and make a clean, presentable driver of it. You might be able to sell the car for some profit to put with your restoration money and get a Buick that wouldn't need as much reversal of the modifications.

     

    If you haven't owned or restored many old cars in the past you may find that is a pretty nice car to own and drive after servicing and shining. Maybe not as chivalrous as restoring, but a lot more satisfying in the long run.

     

    Looks like a lot to work with.

    Bernie

    Bernie, 

     

    Thanks for the advice but selling it is not an option. I intend to keep in the family. Part of the fun for me is going to be the restoration part. It's not about the money, because I don't plan on being the richest man in the cemetery when my time comes. My family is already taken care of when I go. I plan to pass the car down to my step son because it did belong to his grandfather.

     

    I've restored a 1970 Buick Gran Sport with my father when in my late teens. Only difference with that one is that it was all there except the stock hood with the air induction openings a grilles. In fact, there was no hood. It needed a lot of TLC but it ran when I put a new battery in it so I drove it off the back of the used car lot two blocks to my home. I worked for a Buick dealer back then and it was easy to still get some stuff without having to track down aftermarket and swap meet parts.

     

    I'm determined to keep it. I will start breaking it down once I get it to my garage and start tearing it down.

    • Like 1
  20. 30 minutes ago, RivNut said:

    Forgive me if you think that I'm going too far here, but one other thing you might want to check is the front suspension.  Many times when someone builds a car like this, they will often cut the original frame at the firewall and graft a subframe to what's left.  The subframe gives them the proper motor mounts plus disk brakes, power steering, rack and pinion steering, bolt patterns for newer wheels, radiator and mounts, and modern (easy to replace) suspension parts.

     

    Please send pictures.

     

    Oh please don't think you are going too far or for any reason discouraging me or out of line. I surely know the project I am undertaking I can assure you, lol. As it sits out in the back of his house in the driveway, the weather hasn't been very cooperative in being able to slide under it at all. But I will get some chassis/frame photos and post them I promise. 

    I am certainly open to any and all feasible advice regarding this project! I've attached a couple of extra photos I took yesterday when I stopped by.

    20200113_172727.jpg

    20200113_172715.jpg

    20200113_172625.jpg

  21. 14 hours ago, gdmn852 said:

    Hello,Good luck on the 36 , I also prefer a restoration over modified cars, to me they are a part of history when correctly restored, It is more of a learning experience also on a restoration, experiencing how cars were made in that era , the gas pedal starter for example although looking for correct parts can be time consuming.Again best of luck.Gary

     

    Gary, 

     

    Thanks for the kind words. I know this will be a large undertaking. I am up for the challenge though as this to me is a piece of history also that needs to be restored. I've been told that the chassis is not the original. I've found a place that I can get a new one for this make, model and year though. The stuff is out there, just going to need to try and find it! 

     

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