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Przemek M

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Posts posted by Przemek M

    V12 Rear main seal conversion

    in V12 Lincolns Only

    Posted

    You will find more details in th the V12 Bible (page 3-4)

    image.png.c3f29ab26cfe2de905b3a16bf46e6627.png

    Part numbers of retainers, which I bought for my car:

    - 19B-6336  1939-48 Flathead Ford & Mercury V-8 Lower Rear Main Rope Seal Retainer

    - 91A-6335  Ford Upper Crankshaft Seal Retainer 1939-1948

    Good luck 

     

    1938 V12 Bearings

    in V12 Lincolns Only

    Posted

    14 hours ago, Royal Kustoms said:

    Hi Ray, yep I know what you mean reference bearings size and availability. When I build V8 flattys I never like to go any bigger than 40 thou. I have ordered a set of 60 rod bearings from old.parts, thanks for the heads up  just to get the engine going.  I do have another crank for a 46 engine with the bigger rod crank journals. This is on +40 already but am thinking of grinding the journal size down to to std to use the earlier rods. Have done this on V8’s a few times.  Are there any other differences between the early and later cranks?

     

    During engine overhaul, 1941 and earlier crank shafts nedd to be cleaned internaly from oil sludge. You should remove plug caps, one per crank, to do it. If this is not done, your bearings will fail quickly.

     

    • Like 1

    1942 Lincoln V12 hydraulic to mechanical lifter conversion

    in Technical

    Posted

    Below is the info from The HV-12 Rebuilding Bible
    By Jake Fleming

     

     

    Page 10:

    Most people using a late block with solid lifters install a brass plug in place of the 
    check valve to keep oil from flowing down the lifter supply line. In some cases they stop up the forward end of the lifter line also. Originally the front spring for the 3/8” steel ball was a 1 3/16” long free length. The purpose of the front spring and ball was to pop open at about 20 pounds oil pressure to flow oil to the timing gear. If pressure was low, and many were with some miles on them, the gear might not get much, if any, oil. Several ideas for a better oil supply have been tried, such as a small supply line from the big cap bolt in back run to the front to dribble down on the timing gear. Another idea was to drill straight down from the check ball area and hit the supply line for the front cam bearing. Then plug the front end of the continuous pressure to the timing 
    gear. I did not modify this on my hydraulic model, and if you run good oil pressure like 45 to 50 pounds cold and 15 pounds or so hot idle, the normal oiling method should keep the gear lubricated.

     

    Page 15

    WHY NOT USE SOLID ADJUSTABLE VALVE LIFTERS?
    Blasphemy you say! Nonsense, say I. Les Keeton of Anderson, CA uses this setup and his V-12 is the quietest engine in the universe. There are some hitches. The re-builder (you) needs to take 
    care of some important details.
    1. The oil feed folds for the hydraulic lifter galleys, both front and rear need to be blocked off (see Fig.1). These oil passages are not needed for the solid lifter. Flat heat Ford V-8 engines do not have these oil passages for the solid lifters, so the V-12 doesn’t need them either. 
    The proper solid adjustable lifters have side grooves which pick up oil from the crankcase via splashing. (See Fig.2).
    2. You should (not must) use a 1936-1937, H6251 camshaft or have your 86H or 06H-6251 camshaft ground to 1936-1937 specs. If you use the hydraulic valve lifter camshaft (86H or 06H) as is, be prepared for some clatter as the lobe contours are for hydraulic lifters ONLY.
    Specs for the 36-37 Camshaft are as follows:
    Intake Opens Intake Closes
    (Degrees B.T.C. (Degrees A.B.C. after
    before top center) bottom center)
    19.5 degrees 54.5 degrees
    Exhaust Opens Exhaust Closes
    (Degrees B.B.C. (Degrees A.T.C.
    before bottom center) after top center)
    57.5 degrees 16.5 degrees
    3. An oil line, made up of 1/8” brake line must be installed between the rear and front 6666 oil relief plugs (See Fig. 3). This way the cam gears can have plenty of lubrication, something they did not get much of with the hydraulic lifter setup. Drill and tap each 6666 oil plug (center top) for a 1/8” pipe size 90 degree inverted male elbow, tube size being also 1/8”. The tube must be custom fitted to each end with an inverted flare and 1/8” male fitting (See Fig. 4).
    The solid adjustable lifter to get is the SEALED POWER #AT-770 still available at any good auto parts outlet. As stated previously, they have large lubrication slots that pick up oil from the splashing of the crank as it revolves. If the lifter oil passages are not blocked off at the source, 
    most oil pressure is lost at the first two lifters and all pressure by the third and fourth. It is not essential pressure like crank and rod bearings but it is wasted, so block them off and let the cam gears get it. Adjustable lifters should be set .014 cold, between lifter top and valve stem bottom; then re-set again after a run-in, hot. You can use the old ’36-’37 solid lifters (non-adjustable) if you do not have to grind the old ’36-’37 cam, but if you grind the camshaft you must use adjustable 
    lifters. With this setup you gain a lot of oil area so need less oil volume; consequently, the old 86H-6600 or 06H-6600 oil pump. It pumps half again as much oil in volume, but you must use the 56H-6688 oil pan tray to accommodate the pickup. Best yet, use the Melling M-19 oil pump, made to replace the pump in the 1949-1953 Ford engine. It bolts right in except you have to re-direct the oil pickup tube, no big deal, believe me. This M-19 pump uses helical pump gears and is as good as or better than the 56H pump. I have come to believe that the much touted 8El (1949-1951 Lincoln 
    V-8) pump has too much volume, if that is possible; is too expensive and overrated. I had one in my 1947 Continental Cabriolet and had valve float and dramatic loss of power at 55 to 60 MPH when accelerating---who needs that? Oh yes, the Melling pump is also still available at your 
    friendly auto parts outlet for about $25. ADAP also carries them under the SEALED POWER name---ask for the ’49 – ’53 Ford-Lincoln pump.

     

     

     

    • Like 1

    Engine rear seal shredded 1947 Lincoln

    in Lincoln & Zephyr

    Posted

    20 hours ago, L.E.Butcher said:

    Look back to Oct. 20 , I mentioned the article by Jake Fleming. He stated the main seal holders are Ford or Merc , P/N s  91A-6335 (upper )  and

    P/N 91B-6336.  Also will need a pair of 91A-6347 seals, sometime called ropes. It has been years since I did this to my '42 LCCont. Cab. I don't have any of those notes anymore 

    Thank you for the info. 

    Regards 

    '46 Continental Cabriolet : Color for the floor pan, inside the boot & door skin and chassis rails

    in V12 Lincolns Only

    Posted

    6 hours ago, The Custodian said:

    Many thanks for the help, this information is crucial.

    Are there any details about the pedals, handbrake lever and the splash shields? 

    Please help as it's extremely urgent.

    Regards,

    Dev

    This information comes from Authenticity Manual for 40-48 Lincoln Continental by LC owners club. I have hard copy of this document. I can make scan for you.

    Przemek M.

     

    Front wheel bearings on 32 Buick 60series

    in Buick - Pre War

    Posted

    20 hours ago, v12lincoln said:

    Has anyone done a timken bearing.  on a 32 60 series.

    gettting new brake linings put on so thought I would do this if possible.

    need to reread my writing, autocorrect sucks

    IMG_0900.JPG

    Very nice collection. I have also V12 Lincoln  (1946 Continental Cabriolet) and 1932 Buick 60 Series (68C Convertible Phaeton). What a coincidence. 

    Regards 

    Przemek M. 

    WTB 1946 Lincoln Continental air cleaner to carburettor tube - be aware of scam offers

    in Lincoln - Buy/Sell

    Posted

    Be careful and be aware of scam offers. Please read my story.
    As you can see above, I recently posted an advertisement to buy a carburetor tube. After a few days, I got a private message from a forum user named Freewill:
    "Contact Frank, he has a 1946 Lincoln Continental air cleaner to carburettor tube for sale in good condition, here’s his email frankcastlewood@gmail.com."
    Of course, I sent an e-mail to Frank asking him to send me photos of the offered part. First, I got a photo of the wrong part. Then I expressed my surprise and got pictures of the part I was looking for, but "borrowed" from another thread on this forum that I had seen before. I became suspicious and asked for more detailed photos but did not receive them. The Freewill user account is also gone.
    Interestingly, Freewill has made an effort to make his account more credible by posting a few short posts in various threads.

     

    Of course I'm still looking for air cleaner to carburetor tube / pipe for my 1946 Lincoln Continental.

     

    Regards

    Przemek M.

    Looking for 1932 Buick front floor mat replacement

    in Technical

    Posted

    8 hours ago, Steve Moskowitz said:

    My understanding is that three people have emailed David and he has spoken to one of you.  Based upon your info my understanding is he had a conversation with you already.  

    I'm also in this Floor Mats group :)

    I emailed David but didn't speak to him so it had to be the third guy.

    Thanks and regards 

    Przemek M. 

    1932 series 60 lower flywheel cover

    in Buick - Pre War

    Posted

    4 hours ago, 32buick67 said:

    I looked at it, that dwg is #1235355, I was thinking about using it as a ref to fab one for the 32-60 flywheel which appears to have much less holes.

    Looks like dwg#1235355 went obsolete 9nov1929, interesting!

    Is the cover from the mentioned drawing similar to mine?

    If you need  more precise dimensions of the cover from my car, let me know. It is not a problem with removing it and taking measurements. 

    Regards

    Przemek M.

    • Like 2

    1932 series 60 lower flywheel cover

    in Buick - Pre War

    Posted

    6 hours ago, Robert Engle said:

    I think the top 2 holes hold a felt seal against the pan and rear main They may have used split rivets to hold the seal in place. you could fab one with a flat  plate and a step piece to get to the flat rivet piece.  I don't think any part goes under the oil pan.

    Bob Engle

    The felt is riveted only. The cover doesn't go under the oil pan. It has to be removed to access two bolts which holds oil pan in the rear main bearing housing.

    Regards

    Przemek M.

     

    • Like 1
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