will12

Easier said than done for someone who didn’t participate in the greatest psyop and experiment against mankind in human history 💉. Are you saying that several professional licensed mechanics released this “salvage car” with “potential” brake problems on multiple occasions to me without saying anything? Wow that’s crazy! Especially considering in my state they can hold the car if it’s a danger to the public. It’s really really easy to change the starter myself in a car with little clearance and a homeowners association that barks up your ass for simply having the hood open on your car for a few minutes. I appreciate your comments Karen, I mean hemidude 👍

Considering reducing the price, especially for someone on this forum who would appreciate it more.

Selling my 89 TC with 55K miles. I am the 3rd or 4th owner. I purchased it from my grandpa in 2019. No wrecks, and I have the original blue owners manual with a bunch of TC America newsletters I would part with. The valve cover gasket, timing belt, alternator belt, power steering belt and front struts were replaced at 48K. As of right now the car doesn’t start, I believe it’s the starter or starter relay. I replaced the battery and checked relevant fuses. I would also include the hard top roller stand that came with the car. I was able to get as high as 24-25 MPG (22 Avg) but I always used the premium 91 gas. It also has a small vacuum leak. Buyer would be responsible for towing. Asking $7500, might consider trade for a 4 door car https://cosprings.craigslist.org/cto/d/colorado-springs-1989-chrysler-tc-by/7511096163.html Call or text Will at (303) 578-7740 if you have any questions or would like more photos.

Thanks everyone for your help! Please take care and try and stay positive ❤️

@Reaper1 I bought a diverter valve from rock auto that is basically the same as the original...but now she is leaking antifreeze worse than before. I'm going to work on her this weekend to find out where the leak is coming from. I might just remove the valve and bypass it. Does this affect the heat temperature range to the cabin? I'm not worried about the ac as much.

The cabin heater has a valve or diverter right behind the radiator that was leaking. We found this part (pic1vid1) and its pretty close although the orientation of the nipples is not exactly correct. And more importantly the little bracket that holds the diverter doesn't hold the new diverter in the same way the old one was held. I took videos as well that i included links to. 2nd pic old diverter As you can see the nipple on the right side (pics) of the new one goes a different direction. Any suggestions? Thanks for all the help on this awesome forum! Happy Holidays! Bracket part number#844 Old diverter # 4462375 and 30595 New diverter #74777

Thank you @Reaper1 and @Hemi Dude I feel much better now about my girl :)

Changing all the Belts on my 89 Tc 8 valve and we came across this... it appears to be a shock absorber for the alternator because of the rubber on the inside. It probably should be replaced because the rubber is cracked pretty bad. I tried searching the part number (24861) on it with several parts shops but they couldn't find anything. Anyone have an idea what it is and where i could find a new one? I have included a pic below.

Thank you both, I believe I'm able to get the part local. But I will keep these resources in mind. The hose i was able to find has the one 90 bend. A little different then the original hose but it looks like it would work. I will know more after this weekend when we work on it. Original hose's pictured below.

Hello, my Dad and I are replacing heater hoses. The bends near the heater core nipples are sharp and should be molded hoses, so the hoses don't torque on the nipple. We don't want to harm the heater core. But none are available as far as I can tell. Has anyone made molded hoses? My dad thinks putting a bendable copper pipe inside some standard heater hose, bending it and warming it inside the oven? I don't think thats a good idea...so thats why I am here. Thanks, Will

Thank you @Hemi Dude and @Reaper1 We were able to get the bolt out today once we had room, using an air compressor and turning the torque converter slightly

@Hemi Dude The timing belt is new, as of today we were able to successfully detach the torque converter and moved the tranny an inch using longer bolts still attached with the engine and tranny supported. The converter didn't move and the bolt didn't drop. We think the converter needs to move toward the engine enough for the bolt to drop. How far can we safely move the converter? 1/2 inch? The top dead center on the cam pulley and flex plate and converter are marked.

Again thanks for the heads up about the torque converter!We feel it’s best to move the transmission with the torque converter separated from the flywheel/flex plate. We are going to use floor jacks to support the engine and transmission. Do you think we are on the right track? And we are also looking for a tool to tension the timing belt. The blue manual suggests c-4703... I have only found it online for around 90 bucks. Does anyone know where I can rent this tool or have different ideas? I have called a few dealerships, but they don’t have it. I am in the Denver, Colorado area

Today is the first chance i have had to work on it since Tuesday. I will keep in mind removing the flex plate to converter bolts. We are also changing the struts, all belts (including timing) while we are here and she is at 50,000 miles.I think we we were planning on supporting the engine with a floor jack. I will check back in when i see her again today and update whats going on.

Help! I am wondering what to do when a bolt goes down into the bell housing near the transmission? My dad and I were replacing the valve cover gasket when my dad accidentally dropped a bolt from the valve cover into the bell housing. We tried to see if we can get it to fall out at the bottom where an inspection plate is... but it doesn't have enough room to fall it appears. We are trying to see if we can move the transmission over 1-1 1/2 inches to allow room for it to fall hopefully! Its a 89 TC with the 8 valve Turbo II engine. Any suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated! I have included a pic, if looking from the front of the car...this would be to the right of the engine.