Machinist60

This past summer we have been putting most effort into redoing the Park Ward body and doors, both exterior and exterior. Upholstery, headliner and all the trimmings. It is only recently that attention has turned to the engine and chassis. The engine was made run a little last year but with carburation and timing issues. We have now run it enough to burn out oil put in the cylinders over last winter. One has to wonder why the float bowl cover is designed with such a finely adjustable mechanism. Probably for the reason that any change in height of the cover causes twice the level change in the float bowl. This is surely going to affect the flow rate from both jets. At this time to get a start from cold a little gas needs to poured down its throat. Hot starts are no problem. The starting carb seems to have little effect on a cold start. Curiously adjusting the idle jet from the suggested starting point seems to have little effect on the idle speed which is fairly fast with the throttle closed(?). The throttle can be closed a little further when manually pushed and the engine speed drops accordingly. Does anyone know what the idle rpm should be? It appears the throttle is being held open a little by the governor linkage but adjustment of this just changes the governor behavior. What is supposed to limit the throttle closing and how is it adjusted? We do not have the original throttle closing spring and may be using one too weak. Any help with the spring specs will be welcome.

Thanks edinmass for your reply. I appreciate your admonition about making adjustments. The issue is that this engine (JY35) had not run since the sixties. When started it produces copious quantities of dark smoke so I assume it is either burning lots of gas or oil or both. Maybe there is a coolant leak but excessive steam is not noticeable, however until several external leaks are eliminated we cannot be sure. I had the thought that the float bowl fuel level may be too high, hence the question. When the cover is removed and replaced it behaves exactly as you describe. It seems float valve is doing its job as there is no gas leakage when the valve between the autovac and the carburettor is open regardless of whether the engine is running or not. Wet and dry compression tests should tell us more. Perhaps you have other suggestions John.

1930 PII 117GN The manual does not mention anything about the Stromberg type (Pic attached) float bowl fluid level. How does one check the fluid level? Is the cover normally fully screwed down and locked or is it backed off and locked at a specific fluid level? Any help on this and any other pifalls in getting the mixture optimal will be much appreciated. Thanks, John.

Many thanks DavidAU. Google did find that link for me but I dismissed it because the first page described an electric fuel gauge, I did not look further. I now understand the purpose of the the two extra tubes. Hopefully we will be able to get the gauge working, it appears we may be only missing the small hand pump. There are a lot of Rolls parts in the shop, a good search may turn it up. An Enots oiler showed up and we have worked through all the dripper plugs of the Bijir chassis lubrication system (an amazing pump, the one in this car puts out 80 psi at the start of the stroke) Currently working on roof covering, carpeting, upholstery and head cloth in the Packardward body.

Hello I am new to this forum. I am helping a 1930 RR P II owner with Restoration. Picture here https://www.coachbuild.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=49&t=655&start=40 Park Ward Phantom II Sports Saloon, 1930, #117GN. The gas (petrol) gauge is of the manometer type similar to the Hobson K-S petrol telegage. http://www.hells-confetti.com/Images/Instruments/Telegauge/Hobson Telegage instructions.pdf While one tube is sufficient to supply the pressure at the bottom of the tank to the manometer in the dash, Rolls-Royce has three tubes running from the pressure sensor in the fuel tank to the dash indicator. I would like to understand the function of the two extra tubes. One tube is simply sealed at it's end at the bottom of the pressure sensor at the bottom of the fuel tank. If anyone has information or links it would be appreciated. Thanks, John.