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FRED TIP

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  1. Fred will you have a display at the Canfield spring swap meet? thanks Bob Staehle Thanks for asking Bob. Yes we will have our usual display at the Canfield, Ohio Spring Swap Meet on April 30-May 2nd, plus our annual spring showroom sale from April 27-May 2nd. Our manufacturing plant, showroom and car museum are located only one mile from the Canfield Fairgrounds. We will also display at the Canfield Spring and Fall Shows -all at Spaces 482-485. For those who do not know, all of our Skat Blast abrasive blasting cabinets and HVLP paint spray systems are manu
  2. I am the original founder of Tip Tools (TP Tools) in Canfield, Ohio and want to advise that we will not be displaying at Spring Carlisle this year (after over 40 years at the spring show). Several of our employees were hit hard with Covid-19, and since then we are experiencing a shortage of steel and other components to manufacture our abrasive blasting cabinets, vacuums, dust collectors and HVLP paint spray systems. Last year the spring show was postponed into the summer and we also did not attend. Sorry. Fred
  3. I am the original founder of Tip Tools (TP Tools) in Canfield, Ohio and want to advise that we will not be displaying at Spring Carlisle this year (after over 40 years at the spring show). Several of our employees were hit hard with Covid-19 , and since then we are experiencing a shortage of steel and other components to manufacture our abrasive blasting cabinets, vacuums, dust collectors and HVLP paint spray systems. Last year the spring show was postponed into the summer and we also did not attend. Sorry. Attached are pictures of our 1953 Skylark in progress. Fred
  4. We got a little sidetracked on the fuel pump issue, and while this could change, my present plan is to leave the fuel pump unpainted with fuel and vacuum lines painted engine green. Maybe a little overspray on the fuel pump and bottom of the distributor, but only if it is absolutely necessary (and correct). Looking at many 1953 Skylarks, including high end restorations, most have the fuel pump unpainted, some have it painted. I am unable to see the oil filter in any pictures, and am unsure of the correct color. My original question concerned the color of the oil filter, which at
  5. We are almost finished with the hood alignment, but waiting on some rubber bumpers, as the originals are hard as a rock. We need to do some 'fine tuning' to get the hood/door gap even on both sides. They are close, but need a little more tinkering after the new rubber bumpers come in from Steele. Having the hinge and door springs remanufactured was the best thing we could have done. The hood hinge rivets were very loose and sloppy, and the springs were stretched and bent, resulting in a loss of tension. The hinges were rebuilt and because, there are no new springs available, different new
  6. Thanks Pontiac 1953. I am looking forward to seeing these pictures. Cars in NJ, and Bob's Buick have a lot of decals and may have these, but we are quite a few weeks (probably months) before we get to that point.. Always a pleasure to get information from this site and all of the help received is greatly appreciated. Fred
  7. Thanks Fr. Buick, I was thinking the same thing and I have some tower-type clamps that I will install on this hose, as well as changing the hose clamps on my '54. Do you know if the oil filter had a decal on the side? Also if the engine was run on a test stand, should the fuel pump and water pump also be engine green? I feel certain that the water pump would be engine green, but I have seen engine pictures of many Skylarks and about 50% of the fuel pumps were natural cast, not painted (and these on expensive restorations). I just checked pictures of my 1954 Buick and the fuel pump was
  8. I am restoring a 1953 Buick Skylark and had the engine rebuilt. The rebuilder painted the engine in the correct Buick Green color, but we will be repainting it, as want a better finish. One question that I have: What is the correct color of the Oil Filter Assembly. (Rebuilder didn't know, so he painted it green). See 1st picture with oil filter circled in yellow. Should the housing have a decal? Additional Questions: We have the spark plug tins and have already replaced the short red hose on the Transmission filler tube with a black hose, as well as removing the red paint and t
  9. On Friday, it took all of 6 hours to do so, as we took our time and carefully made some great progress. We determined that the hood towards the front of the car was off center by about 1/4". (Al was correct in his observation). We dropped a plumb line from the center hood hole where the hood ornament is bolted on (also measured from hood crease to hood crease at that point to be doubly sure that the hole itself was centered. We then carefully measured the space between the inside frame rails and found dead center. We then moved the hood so that everything lined up on center. The gap along th
  10. Thanks Al, I like your diagram. Centering everything is exactly what we plan to address today, as careful centering seems to be the best plan. The reason the gap from side to side on the hood/cowl is that when we reinstalled the fender supports and radiator bracket, we probably were slightly off center. A fraction of an inch in front would be a substantial gap at the rear of the hood. It might also be possible that the radiator support may need raised slightly, so this will be checked later today. Thanks to everyone for so much encouragement and helpful ideas. Fre
  11. Thanks Bernie - We use a 4 post lift, but for now the car is on wheels and sitting level on the ground. We are taking a good look at everything today and hoping for some progress. We have done body-off and body-on restorations for years and admittedly expect alignment issues, but nothing like this one. This was a body-on restoration, as I am always reluctant to remove a convertible body, even with all of the required cross bracing. Attached are some pictures of the underside of the car after about 300-400 hours to remove the many coats of undercoating. The undercoating did its job, as
  12. I thought of this many times, but several "experts" said it didn't matter, so I am not sure. I appreciate this suggestion. This might end up being "Plan B" after we explore all other options. In the meantime, we are progressing with the deck lid - see picture. Thanks, Fred
  13. Thank you Al, What a great analysis and greatly appreciated. We have had some prior experience with a similar hood on our 1954 Buick 2dr HT, but nothing like this. I also admit that frustration has made it a lot rougher. Tomorrow, we are going to start from scratch more or less and will remove the front fenders again. We installed them as a preliminary check to get everything all aligned prior to painting. The fenders will later be removed for painting, so this was what we hoped to be a final fit with a few adjustments required. We have tinkered with this off and on for sev
  14. Thanks for all of the help. I sent the hinges to Rowland Hall in Burbank, CA and he said they were in very bad shape. He rebuilt them, adding new springs and fixing everything else. They are do in Ohio by this Friday and next week we will see if any improvement. In answer to your questions (thanks for being so thorough): 1) No - hood did not operate smoothly at all and the gaps were not what I would have liked, but seemed to have gotten worse. 2) Added 3/32" of metal to rear sides of hood (not 1/8") after we realized the gap was so big when trying to reassemble (we can remove this
  15. I wish I could find one, but I sent mine to the radiator shop and they rebuilt it, but over $600 in cost. They charge $125 per hour and about 5 hours in the repair! I have sent other work to the same shop and prices were always reasonable, but this one was all rusted out and I had to pay the price. The owner called me to give me the bad news and I think he will negotiate this cost down slightly, but kind of hard to do at such a high starting price. Fred
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