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MG1927

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Everything posted by MG1927

  1. Bill McLaughlin; martygr.53@gmail.com
  2. Thanks very much for the info! Marty
  3. That is a lot of information - Thanks very much Hugh! Marty
  4. John, Thanks for the info! I wonder if the 26 was what they used on the 1027 models. I'm also surprised there wasn't a cup that fit over the top of the jacks screw top and had a U shaped top on the cup that grasped the bottom of the axle to keep it from sliding off the axle. Marty
  5. I have a 1929 Buick model 27 body shell for sale. From firewall on back. Doors are on. Make a reasonable offer, based on you picking it up in SW Wisconsin. I will consider trading for parts for a Buick 1927 model 27. Marty
  6. Hi, I need new running board rubber for a Buick 1927 and a Buick 1929. Both are model 27's. I was wondering what your experience was for those who have replaced the same? Did both years use the same rubber? I was considering product from; L & L, Bob's, and Steele. Are there others that you would give a thumbs up to? What is your opinion on the quality and cost? Thank You! Marty
  7. Would anyone know, or have pictures / description / make and model of the jacks used on these cars? Did Buick supply a jack with the cars? Was it a bumper jack? Did you place it under the axle? Thanks! Marty
  8. William, What you describe fits my key problem exactly. I am confident that I have the right key, but it won't even go into the lock. I have soaked it and the barrel with free-all, brushed it clean, but have not vacuumed the key slot yet while using a needle as Hugh suggested. Marty
  9. Thank You Hugh for the detailed advice. I am more than happy to give your advice a try. Marty
  10. Thank You guys for the input, and thank you Hugh for the insight and details that you provided. Marty
  11. For those who have experience with rebuilding their wood frames, what glue is the best to use? Thanks, Marty
  12. For some time I have been intrigued with the transmission lock on my car. I read the number and had a key made for it. The key arrived and will not fit in the lock, so I am thinking that something was broken off in the lock. Would anyone know how to remove the lock from the transmission? Is it very complicated? Do you need to remove the transmission to get inside it? Thanks! Marty
  13. Thanks Ben for the info. I did buy the Fisher body manual, so I now have what you are showing. This a good book to have, but I just wish I had a dimensional drawing for the front posts. The posts are shown in the book, but it appears that any posts that are made will have to be made to fit the contour of the body. I suppose a pro would know how to approach this, but it seems like that is about the practical way to go about it. Marty
  14. Here are pics of the back of the lower switch on my previous post. MG
  15. And here is the back of the lower one. Guess not, I am oversized on the pics. See new post.
  16. I am hoping that someone could identify the year and model that these switches pertain to. Both were included in a bucket of parts that came with my car, and obviously have not seen much care. They are not original for my Model 27-27. So for the 27-27 I will need Buicks original switch, their number D-1288. If you have one or know of one, please advise on that. Also what is the rusty screw or bolt used for? Thanks, Marty
  17. I had the same problem, but it is working now. I had to unplug my router and reboot, and maybe that was coincidental to a prob w/ their web site.
  18. According to an old post I read on here the 1927 engines were numbered as follows, "Engine numbers for 1927 were in the range of 1627954 to 1978252". So the first number is 1. I believe Hugh has it right.
  19. A Thank You to each and everyone of you guys. This is a WEALTH of information that will help me get a foothold on getting started. Marty
  20. Thanks Mike. I planned to take lots of pics, but will need to retake most pics that I would post on here due to the size of them. I am looking for info on the roof. The ribs that go from side to side are all sunk in. Since they are rotted on one end, they would likely need to be made from scratch, and I probably would use white oak. Obviously they were originally made with some amount of dome shaping. How would I find that out? I'm thinking it would be wise to get good solid measurements on the roof/wood as it is before anything is taken apart as the car body as a whole would keep it to its original dimension., or at least very close. Thanks, MG
  21. I am wondering what you experienced members use for reference as to what parts are used in the car - are there exploded drawings available to show what parts were used? Most likely many of the parts were used in a series of years, but how would I track this down? Thank You, Marty
  22. Hi To All, I just joined having become the owner of a 1927 Buick Model 27 about 10 days ago. I'm afraid to admit that I have so little knowledge of cars and what makes them go, but I am determined to see my purchase brought back to its finer years. I am going to need advice, places to find parts, and I suppose some "how do you do this" questions answered. I see that my pictures are pretty large for the max allowable size, so I will try one with my first question. It involves the wood, which I do not see much about on the old posts. Some of the wood is useable, some is rotted and will need replacing, and some has been replaced by plywood (running boards, door posts, and bottom strips that sit on the frame below the doors). The roof is pretty much shot. The lengthwise slats aren't bad, but the side to side ribs are all rotted on one side, and sunken down. Originally were the ribs cut in a slight bow, or were they steamed to achieve a slight roundness? Does anyone know what kind of wood was used in the original car? Is there a source for premade wood replacement parts? Or does a drawing exist that shows the dimensions? Or better yet, what do you folks do in this situation? Thanks much, Marty
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