Craig Balzer

I entered "1965 Buick Riviera for sale" in Google Chrome This one lists 40+: https://www.classic.com/m/buick/riviera/year-1965/ Only 4 at this site: https://classiccars.com/listings/find/1965/buick/riviera Also 4 here: https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/cars-for-sale/buick/riviera/1965 I didn't check for duplicates across the various sites. ROA RIVIEW is but one source. FYI - I found my Riviera gran Sport on Craig's List four years ago and it was only 50 miles away. Another wide-ranging search option is to use SearchTempest.com - it searches all locals in Craig's List, Facebook Marketplace and eBay

Turbinator Please see PM Craig

Turbinator Does this trunk kit apply to all 3 years of GEN 1 Riviera's?? Craig (with a 65 Riviera Gran Sport)

Need to see a photo(s) the subject vehicle in its final form before the ultimate sale

Interesting thing - when I attached the trickle charger to the battery it immediately showed a red light. This indicates that charging is occurring. The Riv was on the road just 3-4 days for ~45 minutes. Not definitive but yet another indicator

OK - I am going out to garage RIGHT NOW and put a trickle charger on my Riv's battery

I also felt that this symptom was key but my thimble-full of knowledge related to automotive electronics was quickly emptied. Thanx for all your thoughts

Gene What - besides a loose/bad connection -- am I looking? I ask cuz in my original post, I said

What I am hearing is that even a new-ish battery can still be bad. Next time I get a no-start situation (whenever that is) , I'll put a meter on the battery. But I live alone so getting a reading will be a challenge. And for what it is worth - my battery is less than two years old - installed in Oct 2021. And as I am sure is the case with most here, my Riv is driven only in the summer months so only sees a few 100/ maybe 1-2,000 miles a year.

Thanks to all for comments and insights, One point I didn't make clear but was implied in the title: Being intermittent, it is/was difficult to diagnose. Every time the mechanic went to start the engine during the week it was in his shop, it fired perfectly. They test-started the car over a dozen times during the week they had it. I initially said: Once I got it started, I returned to the repair garage thinking that since it took so many tries to start it, that something finally failed. At the repair shop, they shut off the engine and restarted 6-9 times consecutively without issue or pause. Fires immediately and idles smoothly. Given the past several months of history, the next no-start event could be tomorrow of several months from today.

Irlforfun As I stated in my initial post: when I turn the ignition key, there is absolutely no noise: no click from solenoid or anywhere else (does this car have a starter relay? if so, where?) and then It took 12-15 attempts starts before the turn of ignition did anything beside illuminate the oil & amp lamps.

Good thought but sometimes the car would immediately start (or within a moment or two), so a heat-affected armature would ruled out -- yes??

Symptoms: so far, it happens after I have driven 20-30 minutes (or longer) so the engine and all else is warmed up. It may occur after driving fewer miles, but I rarely drive/cruise it less than 20 minutes at a time no other common issues to the half dozen instances when I turn the ignition key, there is absolutely no noise: no click from solenoid or anywhere else (does this car have a starter relay? if so, where?) the only visual indicator is that the Amp and Oil lamps (which come on bright when I turn the key to 1 o'clock position to initiate starting), both dim by ~50% when I attempt to start the engine the car is firmly in Park when this no-start situation occurs, the engine may fire with the very next attempt or it can 12 or 15 (or more) (over a span of 30 minutes) attempts before the engine fires Coincidently, my Rivi displayed this no-start issue when I dropped it off at the repair garage last week. So I added Intermittent NO-START to the punch list. My mechanic dropped the starter and: tightened the lug to which the pos cable is attached to the solenoid cleaned the contact points opened/cleaned the solenoid generally although there wasn't much "crap" in it they also checked the ignition tumbler in the dash - no slop; and the wires on the tumbler were tightly attached to its back after reinstalling the starter, my Riv started right up and also for the next 12 to 15 attempts by the mechanic during his test of operation When driving home from the repair garage today, I ran out of gas (long story). After a nice Fall stroll to a nearby service station and adding 2 gallons of hi-test, my Rivi failed to start (see above). It took 12-15 attempts starts before the turn of ignition did anything beside illuminate the oil & amp lamps. Evidently it started, run rough for 5-10 seconds, then smoothed down. Once started, I topped off the fuel tank (with the engine running) and drove home without any issues or fanfare. At home and safely parked in the garage, I stopped and restarted the car a dozen times without incident. Any idea what the issue may be? Appears to me to be electrical but intermittent electric issues are a bear to ID.

Duplicate Posting Kindly Disregard

Gene Just sent you a PM re: your stockpile of used brake boosters Craig

Try this site https://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/FilterBySize.aspx

Correction on the website address and Name No "S" after Harmon: Harmon Classic Brakes, LLC AND www.harmonclassicbrakes.com

Thanks Gene When I was surfing for replacement units, I came across this unit from Performance on Line. I am NOT converting to disc brakes - staying with the finned aluminum drums on all four corners. https://www.performanceonline.com/1961-69-Buick-Electra-Riviera-Power-Brake-Booster-Kit/?gclid=Cj0KCQjw0bunBhD9ARIsAAZl0E3Ks_t92UrdRgf0tC4Ks1vAzf-tJ3qSJx4WxBlzDRJ9158nwgEQEsYaAvbGEALw_wcB Will this combination unit (master and booster) work for my intended purpose? If I understand it, this will require some brake line fabrication. Craig

I am having work done on the subject car. The master cylinder is readily available locally (80106). The brake booster not so much. I have my July/Aug 2023 edition of The Review in hand. Which vendor is most likely to have one on the shelf? Existing set up

T or F: Since the blocks are identical, this Wix filter will work for the 425 CID engine as well

Frank, spielst du das Kartenspiel Schafekopf? - asked an owner of a 65 Riviera Gran Sport born and raised in Milwaukee, WI. (I was assigned to Munich (1980-84) and Darmstadt & Heidelberg (1990-2004).

Where did you source them?

Gallons per Mile Litres per 100 Kilometers All of you are using the wrong metric although @60FlatTop came close The proper measure is Smiles per Gallon which can be multiplied by waves/thumbs up per drive

Maybe you could refine your guidance There is no "63RIV" on this forum But there is 63riv425 63rivi 63Rivie 63Riviera 63RivKZ <-- not likely Bill 63Rivman Neither can I. I entered @63riv to get the above list - can't help you any further. Will need a more experienced lister ti decode which 63Riv = Bill

atencioee = I'd be more concerned with the condition of the spring clamps that hold the fuses. There just has to be built-up resistance in all that rust,