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About olebug

  • Birthday 11/23/1938

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  1. Thanks Mark, will give it a try.
  2. Got a few miles on the road now, running well. Only new problem is minor rear axle oil leak. Changing oil in differential may take care of it. Exhaust heat blanking is on the agenda. Charley
  3. Finally got it going. Brief update - Removed float needle seat, there was rubber gasket between seat and float bowl. Replaced gasket and seat and float works fine. Rebuilt original electric fuel pump and found it had cracked metal diaphragm. Replaced with Airtex 1 to 4 psi pump. Regulator set at 2 1/2 no problem. Filter upstream of pump and the original Detroit filter downstream. Vacuum tank intact for future project. Car hadn't move since 2008, everything works, poorly but it works. Charley
  4. Next problem is how to safely flush electric fuel pump. Ideas? Charley
  5. Probably was running a little lean. Charley
  6. Installed inline filter between fuel pump and carburetor, but really haven't run engine yet. However, this car has an electric fuel booster pump that looks like it was factory installed. Just crawled under to check it out and found some kind of a filter/strainer on the pump inlet. Will check it out and while I'm at flush the pump. Vacuum tank is bypassed. Backfiring is in the carburetor, I think it's probably starving. Charley
  7. Back on the Dodge. Installed carburetor and got it running intermittently. Got a lot of backfiring then it would run for short period of time and then die. Cleaning fuel system and started on ignition system. Charley
  8. Buick up and running. Brake problem was wrong linkage adjustment on back brakes, was adjusted for long wheel base. Reset & rechecked everything else and got brakes. Charley
  9. Ray: Left side engine pictures. Couldn't see any numbers on carburetor fuel bowl. Engine does have mechanical fuel pump that has been disconnected and replaced with electric pump. Was this the main pump or a booster to a vacuum canister? If it was the main pump is there any reason that it can't be rebuilt? Were they a problem? Mechanical pump would eliminate a lot of joints, hoses and pressure regulator. How to identify engine displacement? Went for road test today. Car ran well @ 35-40 mph. Idle rough but tolerable. Still have brake issues. Started out with hard pedal 2 1/2 from floor as required. After half dozen stops, pedal was down to about an inch from floor. Charley   
  10. I think the last oooooooomph may cause an overstress Charley
  11. Ray : About the wheels, they are 20 inch with 7x20 tires, lug nuts take 3/4 inch socket. Trying to find max torque on lug nuts to trueup one wheel. Checking with torque wrench, existing torque is about 20 ft lbs. Car is a 70's home built roadster from three car bodies & various other parts on a 116” wheelbase. Am in the process of determining which engine I have. Picture & carb info to follow. Charley
  12. Spent most of the winter replacing brake lines etc. on my old VW. (Didn't I just do that 20 years ago?) Finally got the Buick into a garage with some heat. Went through the brake system cleaning & lubing all the clevis joints and setting up the linkages “by the book”. Looks much better & pulling each wheel with a fish scale shows pretty equal loads. Overhauled carburetor. Thanks Hugh for the rebuild procedure. Thoroughly cleaned everything and did some rework on the venturi. Float worked so was resealed with POR-15 All was going fine until I tried to do the shop set up on the air valve. With air valve screw flush with the end of the ratchet spring, there was a load holding the valve shut. Discovered that the spring looks the same as the one in your procedure except it is 2 inches long not 1-1/2. It has been stretched. I set it up to the no load gap shop procedure. When I took it apart the air valve screw was halfway in from the end of the ratchet spring, so the air valve was probably inoperable. In the meantime I need to identify the carburetor.The body is pot metal and has three jets instead of the 2 that you show, see photo. I can’t order any parts until I know what I’ve got. Any help would be appreciated. Went through the fuel system and replaced all the gummy pre-ethanol rubber hoses. Replaced pressure regulator and filter. Adjusted carburetor fuel valve per spec. On startup, had to readjust air valve to normal flush position and it worked fine. Idle is ok but doesn't sound good in exhaust. Suspect exhaust preheat leaking and needs to be blanked. Runs good yard, see what happens on road. Lastly Bill to answer your question, I learned some history. This car was “HOME BUILT” by the original owner as a hobby over the course of many years and was first registered in 1980. To summarize the description given to the present owner:the front clip is from a coupe, center section is from a 2 door sedan which provides wider doors and the back clip with rumble seat is from a special coupe. Other parts came from junkyards and swap meets and it is all 1929. The guy did a commendable job. I’ve recently spent a lot of hours under this thing and it is cleaner than my own 3 year old car. Not a pedigree but a real fun driver. Just want to get it mechanically fit. Wheelbase is 116 and engine VIN number and location indicates a 310 engine. Charley
  13. 1929 Buick with artillery wheels. Tires 20x7, lug nuts 3/4”. What is max torque. Checking with torque wrench, existing seems to be 20 ft.lbs. One wheel needs to be straightened so looking for max allowable to adjust. Charley
  14. Dan: It's “Graphite valve stem packing”, available at any hardware/plumbing store. Just did mine, used 1/8” dia about 7” long. Hope this helps. Charley
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