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olebug

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About olebug

  • Rank
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  • Birthday 11/23/1938

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    chasroe38@yahoo.com

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Mystic,CT
  • Interests:
    Prewar cars

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  1. Next problem is how to safely flush electric fuel pump. Ideas? Charley
  2. Probably was running a little lean. Charley
  3. Installed inline filter between fuel pump and carburetor, but really haven't run engine yet. However, this car has an electric fuel booster pump that looks like it was factory installed. Just crawled under to check it out and found some kind of a filter/strainer on the pump inlet. Will check it out and while I'm at flush the pump. Vacuum tank is bypassed. Backfiring is in the carburetor, I think it's probably starving. Charley
  4. Back on the Dodge. Installed carburetor and got it running intermittently. Got a lot of backfiring then it would run for short period of time and then die. Cleaning fuel system and started on ignition system. Charley
  5. Buick up and running. Brake problem was wrong linkage adjustment on back brakes, was adjusted for long wheel base. Reset & rechecked everything else and got brakes. Charley
  6. Ray: Left side engine pictures. Couldn't see any numbers on carburetor fuel bowl. Engine does have mechanical fuel pump that has been disconnected and replaced with electric pump. Was this the main pump or a booster to a vacuum canister? If it was the main pump is there any reason that it can't be rebuilt? Were they a problem? Mechanical pump would eliminate a lot of joints, hoses and pressure regulator. How to identify engine displacement? Went for road test today. Car ran well @ 35-40 mph. Idle rough but tolerable. Still have brake issues. Started out with hard pedal 2 1/2 from floor as
  7. I think the last oooooooomph may cause an overstress Charley
  8. Ray : About the wheels, they are 20 inch with 7x20 tires, lug nuts take 3/4 inch socket. Trying to find max torque on lug nuts to trueup one wheel. Checking with torque wrench, existing torque is about 20 ft lbs. Car is a 70's home built roadster from three car bodies & various other parts on a 116” wheelbase. Am in the process of determining which engine I have. Picture & carb info to follow. Charley
  9. Spent most of the winter replacing brake lines etc. on my old VW. (Didn't I just do that 20 years ago?) Finally got the Buick into a garage with some heat. Went through the brake system cleaning & lubing all the clevis joints and setting up the linkages “by the book”. Looks much better & pulling each wheel with a fish scale shows pretty equal loads. Overhauled carburetor. Thanks Hugh for the rebuild procedure. Thoroughly cleaned everything and did some rework on the venturi. Float worked so was resealed with POR-15 All was going fine until I tried to do the shop set up on the air valve
  10. 1929 Buick with artillery wheels. Tires 20x7, lug nuts 3/4”. What is max torque. Checking with torque wrench, existing seems to be 20 ft.lbs. One wheel needs to be straightened so looking for max allowable to adjust. Charley
  11. Dan: It's “Graphite valve stem packing”, available at any hardware/plumbing store. Just did mine, used 1/8” dia about 7” long. Hope this helps. Charley
  12. Mike: Thanks for your reply. My concern is that if the gasket is missing, gas will bypass the needle seat and leak or flood all the time. Since it's impossible to remove the seat it may not leak past the threads. I'm going to assemble with needle and banjo housing and air test. See what happens and take it from there. Charley
  13. Thanks for all the info on the Stewart carburetor, it's been a tremendous help. I'm trying to start a 1916 Dodge Touring which hasn't been run in 15 years. Got it running on the primer cups but nothing going through the carburetor. Pulled it and found it welded together with shellac from old gas. Got it apart without wrecking anything, thanks to your posts. The only problem is I cannot get the float valve seat out of the body. Is there a replaceable seal between the seat and body, or is it a hard seat? I puddled cleaner around the seat and it doesn’t seep out, so I'm tempted to leave it be. Ap
  14. Thanks for the heads up on the fan. It looks like if was rebuilt. Fan and hub are really clean light blue paint and shafts look all shiny and there is no sign of leakage. When I filled it, took 2-3 oz of oil, which seemed like a lot if it was not empty. My guess is that it was installed and never filled. Gear check sounds like good insurance. As for the brakes, they certainly will be a challenge. But that's what it's all about. Charley
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