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Josh B.

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Posts posted by Josh B.

  1. Alrighty! Got it figured! Appreciate the assist, padgett. Though unfortunately some of the wire colors on that chart aren't in my car and some in my car aren't in that chart lol


    And I'll show my work a bit here, complete with a screenshot and a link to the shown spreadsheet showing the wiring connections using the Kenwood KDC-BT33 stereo unit and Scosche GM02B adapter. Hopefully it helps someone else out in the future. I tried to make it as easy to read as possible.



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  2. So after having an aftermarket stereo for over a year, I finally decided to tackle installing it. I'm tired of listening to music on my phone while driving lol

    Hoo boy. I have a Kenwood CD/Bluetooth stereo, and a Scosche GM stereo wiring harness adapter (part no. GM02B, pictured toward the end). The adapter fits all four of the harness plugs that were plugged into the back of the factory non-Bose cassette/radio unit. (Unit is dead, probably bad capacitors. Might fix in the future, might not. I haven't owned cassettes in 20 years, so... yeah, hehe). I'm terrible at reading these types of wiring diagrams in the GM Repair Manual, but this is everything I've gathered so far.


    What I believe I know (please correct me if I'm wrong):

    White plug is the front speakers (TAN = Left+, GRAY = Left-, LT GREEN = Right+, DRK GREEN = Right-)
    Blue plug is the rear speakers (BROWN = Left+, YELLOW = Left-, DRK BLUE = Right+, LT BLUE = Right-)




    What I think I know (DEFINITELY correct me if I'm wrong):

    The black 6-wire plug shown below has four wires. Yellow, Brown/White, Pink, and Black. I *think* the PINK wire is what raises and lowers the antenna? BLACK I assume is ground?


    What I DEFINITELY don't know:

    The YELLOW and BROWN/WHITE wires on the 6-wire plug. I can't tell if these are radio and/or CD(not equipped in mine), or if these are the power wires for battery+ (maybe Yellow since book says "HOT AT ALL TIMES"?) and accessory+ (Brown/White?). Really unsure. However, I hope they're the power because of the one major thing that concerned me with the fourth plug. The fourth plug (shown below) is a 7-wire plug with four wires. Black, Purple/White, Gray, Green. The problem is that the adapter has a spot for the 7-wire plug to fit, but there are no connections to it. This leads me to believe the four wires in the 7-wire plug are unnecessary. But I don't know. PURPLE/WHITE and GRAY are labeled "Instrument Panel Dimming Cell" in the GM manual, which is probably incompatible with modern stereos anyway. I can only guess through process of elimination the GREEN one is what the book calls DK GRN and that is labeled as "Entertainment and Comfort Data Line." What in Ernest P. Worrell's world is that? lol


    Then that just leaves the BLACK wire which I can only guess is another ground wire of sorts for the others on this plug. And here is the adapter for reference (no pins/wires in the big one, lower left):



    So yeah, this is where I'm at 😵 Any help you guys can provide is greatly appreciated as always.


    17 hours ago, dship said:

    IMO it does sound like a connection problem, but IPC's do go bad...its a 30 year old part.  Check out the Reatta vendors at the top of this forum as they most likely will have a replacement for you in their inventory.

    Also, the 90-93 Riviera used the same IPC.  So, you might be able to pick up one at a local junk yard, or go to www.car-part.com which is a nation-wide online junk yard web site. 


    Yeah, I was thinking connection as well, but as you said, it's 30 years old so I fully expect the possibility it has just gone bad and needs repair/replacement. Wasn't aware of the car-part.com site. I'll definitely check that out. I appreciate it, dship :) 


    16 hours ago, Barney Eaton said:

    There is no one simple answer to the question.    It could be a cracked land on the PC board that makes contact as the inside of the car warms. 

    Check connections.... 

    I would pull the IPC and clean the connector......I remember one owner that was fighting this problem and his solution was to shim the connector that the IPC plugs into...... out a little so it would make better contact and it worked for his problem.

    All the signals for the IPC come from the BCM which is mounted behind the glove box... it has 3 big connectors,  unplug, spray with contact cleaner and replug may solve the problem. 

    If it does happen to be internal to the IPC....  1990 - 1993 Riviera used the same IPC and Rivieras are easier to find in salvage yards than Reattas. 

    Vendors like Jim Finn will have working used one........ 

    BBA  Reman in Taunton MA  repair the IPC.... last I heard for around $100  their phone number = 866-573-2740  ...web site = us-shop.bba-reman.com


    Good to know I'm not the only one who has had this exact issue. I'll have to root around this weekend when I have plenty of time in daylight to fiddle with it. Might get around to checking those connectors before work some day this week. Fingers crossed a shim will help. I will definitely hit up Jim and or BBA Reman if needed. Thanks a bunch for the info, Barney :) 

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  4. I assume you're talking about the ECC module? Yeah, it works fine. The only display seeming to malfunction is the IPC. When I have time I'll probably check the connection from the IPC and see how well it's making contact. I suppose it's possible the cold weather is making the contacts contract enough to briefly disconnect, but I would think the idiot lights wouldn't work either (one of the idiot lights is on all the time, I can't remember which one at the moment). But I'm not versed at all on the inner working of the IPC enough to make that assumption.


    I may just see about getting another IPC to be on the safe side. I have a short enough drive to work I'm not super worried about my speed, but I'd rather be able to see my gauges lol

  5. Hey all. I'm having an occasional issue where the IPC (1990) goes blank or starts off blank when I first turn on the car, but it seems (?) to turn back on after the car runs for a bit. Though it's tough to say for sure because I use it as a daily driver, but it's short trips. I only live 3 minutes from work. It did it Saturday night when I let her warm up after work. Started blank, turned on for a minute, back off, then back on a minute or five later and stayed on.


    Now when I say blank, I don't mean blank except for the "ERROR" and "00" showing up. I had that issue once and it turned out the key was dirty. Cleaned it and haven't had that happen since. I mean the IPC goes completely blank except for the idiot lights. Seems strange, not sure what would be causing it. Although it does seem to happen more often now that it's colder, but that could be coincidental.


    Any ideas?

  6. So I've been putting it off for a while, and finally have the time to do it. Major question being, I keep seeing tutorials saying to drain coolant from the radiator, but based on the gasket, this thing doesn't even *have* coolant passages. (Does it?) Why would I need to do that? Am I in for more of a headache than I thought? I was under the assumption I could just disconnect throttle linkage, sensors and unbolt it from the intake.

    Slightly afraid to screw with it now, and thinking about trying to clean it while attached lol


    Any help is appreciated.

  7. 168 for both I believe (though you could just use 194s as well I think... they just might not be as bright). Here's the bulb listing from the back of my owner's manual. Hope this helps out.


    If anyone needs anything from the manual (this one specifically is the original for my 90 coupe), let me know and I can upload more images or PDFs.


    • Thanks 1
  8. My Reatta had a similar issue with the previous owner. They put in a newer short block but after buttoning everything up, they never properly realigned the front end in combo with having tires on the front bigger than they should have been. He cranked the wheel and it caught and blew out on the driver's side. Exploded the fender, destroyed the wheel well liner, a bit of the molding on the driver's door, and a little part of that middle strip on the bumper cover. If there is one thing I know I want to invest in as spares it's the fenders, just in case.



  9. 5 hours ago, B Jake Moran said:

    It's interesting to see comments about spending so much on our Reattas BUT I believe in general Reatta owners drive their cars more.  Components wear out when you drive the cars, no matter what it is.  I have a 76 Cadillac with 60,000 original miles that components don't need replaced, generally, because it is not driven. But how many of our Reattas have 150,000 + miles on them! 


    That's the thing about these cars. They are driven. Because underneath all the beauty, and the luxury, and the cool 80's aesthetic, it's a Buick. It's made to be driven.

    I daily mine also :D

  10. I may do that if I can't manage to satisfactorily repair this panel 👍

    In other news, I got my headlight switch in and found out the hard way leaving work tonight that the parking lights are now not turning on (stupid me, I was only concerned about the headlights, and I didn't pay attention to whether the rest were working). Headlights work fine though. Hopefully a fuse? Won't be able to figure that out until I have some light and spare fuses to work with.

  11. Reinstalled headlight switch after successful reassembly (switch housing blowout). Have not yet put the trim panel back over the dash. Whichever previous owner pulled it before busted every connector between the chrome edge (to which the vent covers are attached) and the main panel. I'm going to come up with a way of permanently reattaching the chrome edge piece to the main panel this weekend before putting it back on since that's what primarily holds the panel on aside from the two upward-pointing torx screws.

    The way the panel/vent cover assembly is constructed is highly questionable.

  12. 6 hours ago, Barney Eaton said:

    Pushing too hard.

    You could heat bond the two haves together but it might be difficult to get them apart if you need to do a repair


    I may have been. For the last few weeks though, it had been making a loud click before the headlight button would finally depress (needing a little more force than normal), so I think the retainers were getting weak. Either way, no doubt I was pushing too hard for whatever state it was in. Should have popped it out to check it over before this happened. Rearview's 20/20 :) On the upside, it gave me a good reason to crack the dash open to see how to access the cluster and non-functioning tape deck that needs replacing.


    For the time being, I used some strips of T-Rex tape to hold 'er together. Solid as a rock. I will probably see if I can snag a non-working switch for the housing at some point in the near future.

  13. Hey all! So, first call for help and suggestions here. Relatively minor. I turned off the headlights Saturday night and the backside of the headlight switch blew out. I got all the parts out and the thing completely reassembled thanks in no small part to SCOTT's 90's switch teardown tutorial (Thank you Scott!) and it works smooth like butter again. The only real problem is the retainers on the front half busted off (hence the 'splosion).


    Anyone have any suggestions to remedy this? I'm thinking of wrapping the thing in electrical tape at each end to make sure it stays tight, if only because I'd really rather not epoxy the shell together in the event I need to open it up in the future.


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  14. This is my first post to this forum and I am a new Reatta owner. (Hi, everybody!) Part of what helped me decide that this was my dream car was the wealth of information on your website, Ronnie. It made me realize there is a devoted fanbase for this wonderful car, and I'm glad to be a part of it.

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