Sloth

Hello, The last two days, I spend turning the propeller shaft from 42MoCr4. As the shaft is rather long (3 1/2') and slender 2", it took a lot of shallow passes to get it vibration free turned back to 1 3/8". The fixed steady was needed to ensure some rigidity. For some unknown reason, using the traveling steady made things worse, that is, a lot more vibration. Using only the fixed steady, no vibration at all. As this lathe is nearly 65 years old, some play here and there is evident. I can live with it very well, but for this job it is on the edge. Turning the shaft took 9 hours in total. Things left to do: milling the square part, cutting the thread at the pinion end ( 7/8 x 20) and turning the trust plate for the pinion bearing. Also a new pinion nut is needed, the old one is busted beyond repair. Half way..... At last, most of the turning is completed. Just to give an impression of the length of the propeller shaft. Tomorrow will be a rainy day (according to the weather forecast), that is not the right weather to mow the grass 😉, but excellent weather to complete the work on the propeller shaft😊. Regards, Harm

Hello Al, Its mine in a slightly better condition. The p.o. removed the top and windshield, and hoped for a more speedy sale. It didn't help selling the Oakland, some time later he tried to make a speedster of it. He cut the body and removed the rear part, cut the drivers side running board irons and removed the running boards and fenders. Still no sale. In that dilapidated condition Ann and I bought this Oakland (not one of my most bright decisions 🤪 more of an all time low in judgement). On the positive side, no time and money anymore to spend at the local watering hole.... as far as that can be seen as positive 😭. Best regards, Harm PS Nothing is more expensive as an 'cheap' brass car.

Hello, @alsfarms, below a picture of our 'new' installed solar panels. Nothing special, just 16 panels each 410W. With a bit of sunshine in the morning we get about 20kWh out of them. Not bad for early April, must say we don't have much clear sunshine these days. Picture of the solar panels positioned on the east side of the barn roof. West and south are already covered with solar panels. Oakland business: To complete the rebuilding of the rear axle, the first thing I must do, is making a a new third member drive shaft. The position of the drive shaft is a fixed point and is needed to calculate all the other dimensions needed to rebuild the rear axle. The pinion of the new pinion and ring gear set I bought, has a straight mounting hole, while the original one is tapered. Looking a bit better at the old drive shaft, is seems that it is not the original 1910 model K drive shaft, but a later 1912 model 35 drive shaft. That one used a Hyatt bearing at the pinion end, as you can see the end is smooth but slightly tapered (worn a bit). The model K drive shaft used 2 self centering ball bearings. Furthermore the tread for the pinion retaining nut is very busted and useless. Picture of drive shaft pinion end. Another thing, the upper and lower bearing have 40 mm inner diameter, both have a 40 mm to 35mm reduction sleeve. So I think the original drive shaft is 40 mm. Yesterday I ordered 60" 50mm diameter 42CrMo4 steel. I need 50 mm because of the square end, see the picture below. The length of the shaft is 44.5" which will fit between the centers of my lathe. Driveshaft with square end. The square end protrudes into the gear box, the change gears slide on the square end. Regards, Harm

Hello, This afternoon I removed the remaining bushings from the rear axle case halves. Pressed in the left side sleeve, and assembled the third member with the pinion and shaft to the left hand axle case half. Put in the axle shafts with the differential with the ring gear and hooped for a close fitting of the ring and pinion gear. Oh well, no nice fitting the ring gear is 3/16" out! Did not understand why. But after some time, it appeared to me that, although, calculated the whole thing carefully and saved the calculations (maybe I would need them later 🤪), I forgot to count for the tooth depth of the ring gear -sigh- 😭. Had to remove the roller bearing cup sleeve from the axle case and make a new one (the removal caused some damage of the sleeve). Tomorrow is another day as they say. Note to myself, don't forget to take into account the +3/16" for the right hand roller bearing cup sleeve. Regards, Harm PS Sorry, no pictures, phone empty.

Hello, Today I continued with the manufacturing of the left hand differential sleeve. That went very well, so I also could spent some time at the sleeves for the axle cases. Left hand differential gear case, sleeve and differential case. The damage at the gear case circumference was caused by the Hyatt bearing sleeve. This sleeve was a very loose fit in the axle case, so it partially came out of the axle case, and ran against the gear case and causing some damage. It is not as deep as it appears on the picture, just 1/32". The right hand axle case sleeve was fitted with a tab which prevented the sleeve from coming loose. I guess some P.O. thought it wise to straighten the left hand tab, with the result shown above 😡. Differential gear case with pressed on sleeve and bearing. Regards, Harm

Hello Al, Thank you. I really hope so. Regards, Harm

Hello, Last 4 weeks Ann and I put some extra solar panels on the roof of the barn, quite an undertaking for a 70 year old couple 😊. The reason for this is, that the heat pump for heating our house, used a lot more electricity than we thought. Most models I used, for calculating the electricity consumption, are a bit (lot) optimistic. So some extra 16 -410W- solar panels should help. The plus side of the heat pump, is that the whole winter we lived with a very comfortable 70F room temperature. I started again with the restoration of the Oakland. Yesterday I completed the drawings of the differential. As I mentioned in earlier installments, the plan is is to remove the Hyatt bearing and replace them with ball and tapered roller (Timken) bearings. The best fitting bearing for the differential gear case, I could find (and was available are metric 90 x 55 x 27 mm SKF/Timken bearings). For this conversion I have to make a number of sleeves. One for each half of the differential gear case, and one for each half of the axle housing. Today I made one sleeve for the right half of the gear case. See pictures below. Right hand halve of the gear case, sleeve, cone with the cup above. At the top of the picture the other half of the gear case including the differential gears. I made a small flange on the sleeve so I can put a bearing puller under the bearing cone outer ring. I guess it will be needed. 😄 The sleeve pressed on the gear case. Gear case with sleeve and pressed on roller bearing cone. The completed differential gear case assembly (the cup will be pressed into a sleeve in the axle housing). Right hand half of the axle housing, the Hyatt bearing sleeve is still in it. Have to remove it, but it is a stubborn piece of sleeve 😄. The two sleeves for the differential gear case halves are the easy parts. The real difficulty comes with the sleeves for the axle case halves. I must obtain some preload on the bearings, and have the ring gear mating perfectly with the pinion. I foresee a lot of measuring and adjustments made on the sleeves. Oh well, first thing to do tomorrow is making the sleeve for the left hand differential gear case. Regards, Harm

This is the last report of the restoration of our 1931 Ford Model A Roadster. So that sounds a bit dramatic isn't it? Yesterday, we had a very good day. Last weeks I finalized the restoration of the Model A Roadster (there are just a few things left 😉). Last Wednesday I made an appointment for Friday 8.00hr AM, with our "Government Service for the Registry of Motor Vehicles". This to apply for inspection and hopefully to get it registered again, we also applied for getting back the original license number plate. Well, to our amazement we could have the car inspected at Friday. Normally you have to wait a minimum of 6 weeks, so two days was a bit short. Wednesday night and Thursday were spend to correct the last details. The reason it must be inspected: this car was out of service during at least the last 40 years. The P.O. did not pay road tax for the car, that means that after some time the license for he car is revoked and deleted from the government license data base. To get the car licensed again it has to be inspected by the "Government Service for the Registry of Motor Vehicles". As we had a full history of the car we hoped that licensing would be not much of a problem. Friday morning at 5.30hr A.M. Ann and I loaded the car on the trailer, the weather was not on our side this early morning. We had some snow and freezing rain. As it also was cold outside, just the right weather for this kind of adventure ☺️. After a very slow trip on snow covered roads, we arrived without problems at the inspection station, this to the amazement of the inspectors. At that moment it snowed heavy. Long story short, they liked the car, supplied us with a lot of coffee and after half an hour they had completed all the necessary paperwork. The car was approved 👍, we got best wishes from the inspectors for a save drive home. Ann and I reloaded the car, and drove home even slower than on the way there. At home luckily most snow was gone. We unloaded the Ford, put it in the shop, and relaxed the remaining part of the day. In the afternoon and night it snowed heavily, would be nice during Christmas but not now. This afternoon (Saturday) we received the license card for the Ford. Is our Government Service fast or not! The only thing left to do, is completing the side curtains. I think they are a necessity to keep the interior dry during transport, at this moment it is a bit damp. Passing trucks dumped some snow and rain into the car 😪. Whats left for this summer, is the striping of the car. I am sorry, but I forgot to make some pictures at the inspection station. Returned from the Inspection Station, a very happy Ann and a Ford with a wet interior. And now back to the Oakland, I look forward to it! Regards, Harm and Ann

Hello Al and Ed, I experienced both, cheap cars and an expensive cars. Rather expensive 1910 Oakland, this one quickly becomes an expensive restoration. But I concur with Ed, -cheap and correct- restoration does not exist (as far as I know😉). I am lucky, Ann still likes the Oakland very much 😍. Me? A bit less than it used to be.... Regards, Harm

Hello Ken, I apologize for my late reply, did not feeling well for some time. Also did not work on the Ford and the Oakland. Its time for spring to arrive, I am tired of all those grey and sombre days. Thank you for your answers, that is a very nice Oakland. The brass lamps looking as new, but I guess they need a lot of polishing (we own a 1912 Flanders20, all the brass on that one also needs a lot of polishing 😄). Regards, Harm

Hello Ken, As you are driving the Oakland quite a number of years, I expect you have a lot of experience to keep it running and healthy. I hope I don't bother you with some questions, but: what kind of oil do you use in the engine and do you use plain water or a cooling fluid for it? As far as I know, your car has already the cone type of clutch? For such a powerful car, are the brakes up to the task? On mine the brake drums looks impressive, but I know from experience that won't say much. Regards, Harm

Hello Ken, That is a very nice car. So far as I can see, a lot of work was involved to bring it back to it former glory. Regards, Harm

Hello Al, We have a rather mild winter, moderate temperatures and no snow. How is the winter at your side of the globe? I visit the Locomobile forum regularly, very interesting. In Europe, there are not many Locomobiles around, reading on the forum is very pleasant and educational. Good thing you started these forums. Regards, Harm

Hello, I am still working on the Ford. Years ago I bought a top for another roadster we have (also a project car...). Took this this kit and made it fit. That was easier said than done, oh boy was this a very bad piece of kit 🥵, it was not even cheap... Nearly non of the parts fitted as they should be, so I spend a lot of time to make it fit decently (more or less). But most painful of all, the "Cinch fasteners" are missing, got some of the old top, but still missing a few. At the moment they are not available by any of the parts vendors. At this moment I am busy, installing the electrics. I used a light switch body which was sold years ago by one of the very early sellers 😡. Bad choice, what ever I did, it just wont fit. I found a rusty original, cleaned and painted it, put it on the steering housing with no problem at all. I must admit, some of those early reproduction parts are not the best one can buy.... Its much better to repair, clean and paint the old parts. But some times its just not possible to reuse the old parts, and you have to buy reproduction parts. I am grateful to the vendors who sell quality and fitting repro parts, not an easy business I think. Some small chores are left: installing direction lights, putting in the front floor boards, installing the cardboard cowl panels and adjusting the brakes and clutch. Changing oil and filling her up with gas and cooling fluid. Hope to have the car ready end of next week. Oakland: Not much work done at the Oakland. But I found a very nice fat mans steering wheel on Canadian ebay. Did not cost me an arm and a leg 🙂. Its a sliding steering wheel made by Neville Steering Wheels Detroit. It only needs a good cleaning and some polishing. Further more I have to make an adapter to fit it on the Oakland steering shaft. I tried it and can say, it made life a lot easier to get behind the steering wheel. Neville steering wheel. As I found some remaining tube work at the Oakland, it seems the car had some 100 years ago, a kind of acetylene starter installed. I got curious how those systems worked. I found some information on blogs at Ford model T site. I learned a lot, engine heads in the rafters after a mighty explosion, holes in the cylinder castings, etc, etc. I certainly will not use it 😁. There are two kinds of systems, one is a low pressure acetylene system (Prest-O-starter) the other is a high pressure system (DISCO). In those days there where a lot of manufacturers, but Prest-O-starter and DISCO where the most well known. But as I am intrigued by it, I thought: lets see if i can find some parts to build such a starting system. Would be a nice conversation piece to have it on the Oakland. A few month ago I saw an ad on HCCA, for a 'DISCO' ignition starter control (kind of complex tap). I bought it, and i must say its as new. The parts I am missing are the injectors, I have just a vague idea how they look, but can't find a drawing or a clear picture of it. But, this is all very low on my priority list. First repair the rear axle, gear box, clutch etc. and get it on the road. The 'DISCO' starter control. Acetylene input on the left side and 4 outputs on the right side, amount of acetylene adjustment needle in the middle. Detail picture of "DISCO" etc on the inlet part. The other day, I read some very interesting installments on the Locomobile blog One about some mishap with a model 48 rear axle. What a nice piece of engineering this axle is! While I do not think the Oakland is not well engineered and manufactured, I can see there is a big difference in manufacturing quality and quality of engineering between the Locomoble and the Oakland. For example: better bearing engineering solutions, use of heavier material, good possibilities for adjustment of gears etc. I know its another league of cars (price wise also😉) but never the less, it is nice to read about it. Regards, Harm

Hello, Regrettably, due to family obligations, not much to report. Ann and I had a very busy 2022, so the progress of the restorations was not what I planned at the beginning of this year. Hope that I can spend more time in the shop during 2023 😄. Restoration of the Cleveland: no progress at all Restoration of the Oakland: minimal progress (have to do a lot of turning -bushings, nuts and bolts and small parts). Restoration of the Ford: good progress, only to do the top and adjusting brakes and some electrics. 🎄 Dear friends, Ann and I wish you a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year 🎄 Regards, Harm and Ann

Hello Al, Send you a PM. Regards, Harm

Hello Al, It also can be done with a router -as used for wood work- and an half round milling bit. There are a lot of this type wood milling bits for sale. Depending on the diameter of the steering wheel rim, one can buy the right diameter milling bit, or manufacture one your self. I think routing the pattern/mold is much easier and saver, than turning such a large plank😅. Regards, Harm

Hello, Last Saturday we had a great day. The swap meet was large, lots of parts and cars (mostly post war) and many tools -new and old-. Also club stands, automobile, tractor, fire trucks, commercial and military trucks and some motorbikes. Also a large stand with horse drawn carriages, all very nice restored. Some of them a really huge. Ann and I met a lot of friends, we went in at 10.00 o' clock and left at 17.00 hr, sore yaws 😊and feet and really tired. We did not find a model A hood, but did find and bought an as new Crestline series "75 Years of Oakland and Pontiac" book for the princely sum of €50,- (about $55,-). This is a bargain, as they are advertised on Ebay and others for $150 to $390. I looked for years for it. Furthermore I bought a mint Essex 1930 hub cap for $10,-. In the past there were always 2 or 3 brass car stalls, but not anymore. Talked to parts vendors about it, they told me that we are a dying breed (which is. in several respects, very true indeed 😇). There is not much interest anymore in restoring brass cars 😞, it becomes more and more a (very) small niche in the automobile hobby. It makes no sense anymore to have a stall on a swap meet. For brass and veteran cars, Retromobile (Paris, France) is the only swap meet left for early cars. The only problem with Retromobile in my opinion is, that it caters for 95% for European cars. As Ann and I like the brass American cars, there is not much use for us to visit it. Sorry no pictures this time. Regards, Harm

Hello, I hope you all had a nice Thanksgiving day. This morning I went to the shop at 6.00 o' clock. Started with removing all the fenders, loosening the steering tube bolts and so on. Lifted the body 3" to have some working space between the frame and the body. At 10.00 hr all preparation work was done, then setting up a string from the front to the rear of the frame. Did that on the passenger and driver side, measured the sag. Sag on the passenger side 7/16", drivers side was spot on, no sag at all. Then made a contraption to press the passengers side frame beam straight. Used 30 ton hydraulic bottle Jack, a strong and heavy piece of 8 x 2" rectangular steel tube and some sturdy chain. The straightening job took 10 minutes 😙, I left the drivers side frame beam alone. After lunch I measured the whole frame very carefully for straightness and diamonding (that is not being a rectangular with 90 degrees edges). Did that twice, don't trust my self that much...😉. The frame is straight now, and no diamonding at all. After dismantling the straightening contraption, I put on the front fenders and the hood. Lo and behold, without any shimming and with the body loose on the the frame, the hood fits nicely, and the hood hooks fit. At 18.00hr I closed the shop, very tired (I am an old man of nearly 70, I belong on the couch with a lazy cat some chips, nuts and beer. Oh well...). Tomorrow Ann and I go to a swap meet in the north of the Netherlands. Hope to meet some friends. The body lifted 3" above the frame. Front of straightening contraption. Rear of straightening contraption. Regards, Harm

Hello Joe, I took all the dimensions of an original hood, it seems that the reproduction hood is correct although the sheet steel seems a bit thin... The hood belonging to the car had an 'accident' in the past, some PO tried to straighten it but he made it worse than it was (louvres bend, cut out and welded in again....). Not willing to spend much time on it, I bought a reproduction hood. Saturday, Ann and I go to a swap meet, maybe I will find an original used and straight hood. Regards, Harm

Today I proceeded with 'some adjustments', regrettably this came to noting. I just can't get the hood lined parallel with the cowl. Getting the doors OK, will get me a not properly fitting hood and vice versa. The drivers side is not bad, but the passengers side is not a nice fit at all. A year and a half ago, when I started with cleaning and painting the frame, I measured the straightness of it. It seems OK, just a very slight sag at the engine rear mounting points. At the time I considered that OK, but now I am not so sure anymore. Putting in the engine and gear box in, puts a lot of weight at the engine rear mounting points. It now seams not unlikely to me that the weight of them exaggerates the sag. Tomorrow, I will loosen al the body to frame bolts, remove the rear fenders (and maybe also the front fenders) and measure the whole frame again. According to some MAFCA blogs, the frame can be straightened without removing the body..... I really hope so. Front passengers side with brand new hood. Front drivers side Drivers side, not to bad (not happy with the quality of the new hood....) Passengers side, gap between the cowl and the hood at the top is about 1/8". Gap at the bottom of the cowl 9/16". Tomorrow I report my findings about the yes or no sag, and how much it is, and how I am going to correct it. Regards, a not so happy Harm

Hello Al, Not much activity on the Oakland front, but a lot of activity on the 1931 Ford Model A Roadster. Finalizing the restoration of the model A, is priority number one now. Dividing my energy on the restoration of two cars simultaneously, is just to much of a good thing. As the mechanical restoration of the Oakland rear axle, gear box and clutch is quit complex, its better to focus on one car at the time. Unfortunately the model A has its problems too, its called body alignment..... Fitting the rumble seat lid, doors and hood proved a time consuming and frustrating process. As most of you probably know, the model A Roadster body is quit 'flexible' (to put it gently). Yesterday I measured the relative position of the radiator tabs, to which the radiator shell is fastened. The lower ones were 1" out of whack. Corrected that, the radiator shell is fitting nicely now. The hood fits a bit better, but not perfect. Some adjustment is still needed. Last week I removed some shims between the body and the apron, today I put them back..... I expect this will go on for a few days more. I guess this process sounds familiar to most of you. There are not many car related jobs I dislike, body alignment is one of them. Tomorrows report will come with some pictures (forgot to feed the empty Iphone). Regards, Harm

Hello, Today I started to make a thin sleeve for the inside of the pinion bearing. Went well, pressed it in to the bearing with a bit of Loctite. After that, I took a lot of dimensions of the nearly complete rear axle pinion bearing case and gear box.I mounted the drive shaft and pinion gear, and it seems I am in the ball park, no pressing of the third member tube needed (at this moment). Then when fitting the pinion gear, i discovered another beaten up nut (the one who keeps the pinion gear on the axle). I have to make a new nut. As the thread is UNF 7/8 and I don't have a proper screw tap for it, I ordered a set of 2 in Germany. Just for future reference, 2 pictures of the pinion bearing castings (both welded 😉). The old pinion bearing casting The new pinion bearing 'casting' Regards, Harm

Hello, Saturday I assembled the rear axle parts, that is, the two housing halves and the third member including the gear box. Last week I pressed the third member tube into the gearbox, and drilled and threaded the holes for fastening the tube at the gearbox. At Joe's advice, I use Allan screws and a dab of Loctite instead of rivets. Yesterday, I spend a lot of time to measure every thing. The axle and the gear box must be in line, and both items must be level to each other, to reach that objective it took the better part of the Sunday. The only job left is to determine how far the tube must be pressed into the pinion bearing case. At the moment it is not pressed in deep enough, but I don't dare to press the tube further into the pinion bearing case (measure twice -or more- and press once 😨). I tried to fit the drive shaft, but forgot that the pinion bearing needs a small sleeve to accommodate the drive shaft, small job for tomorrow. Gearbox case with third member tube and Allan screws (these Allan screws are only for fitting purposes, they will be replaced by proper strength black ones). It seems that Oakland did not care for nice machined adjustment hatches..... All parts assembled in in line and level. Detail picture of the left side of the axle. Detail picture of the right side of the axle. Regards, Harm

Hello Al, We love cider, but the good one is hard to find these days. Super market cider quality is so so.... Oakland reconstruction is going on but slowly. The last 3 weeks we were very busy with the garden. We had the ditches dredged, we do that every 5 years to ensure that the rainwater is quickly drained. Further a lot of small but time consuming chores. Today I sprayed the front fenders of the Model A Ford roadster, went well. We have at the moment, record warm temperatures (70F), ideal for paint spraying. My biggest concern are bird droppings on the fresh paint, but luckily, nothing of such thing happened. (I have some experience with this kind of catastrophes 😡) Oakland business: I removed and inspected the wheel bearings, one side of the rear axle had a stack of 6 ball bearings. The other side had the original Hyatt roller bearing. One of the rollers was broken, the shaft bushing is worn down. Further I noticed, that the ends of the rear axle castings have a trumpet form. The casting containing the bearing has thickness of about 5/32 to 3/16, a bit on the skinny side for the occurring dynamic load put on the bearings. What I plan to do, is turning adapter sleeves and using ball bearings. It is the same solution I applied at our 1912 Flanders 20 rear axle 30 years ago. Two years ago I inspected the wheel bearings and the were in an as new condition. The bearings and the tube for the sleeves are ordered, as soon as they arrive I will start production 😉. Al, read with interest your installment about the Demarest Locomobile, looks to me as restore-able. What time frame do you have in mind for restoring this unique car? I love Locomobile engines, a bit thirsty but very nice engineered. (that reminds me, I have no idea what the Oakland miles per gallon will be, mmm 320 cubic inches, 40 HP, low rev, a worrying thought 😉). Regards, Harm