Sloth

Hello, after 15 days in hospital, I am home again. The correct medical name for the bacterial infection is: Endocarditis. During the next 4 weeks I am confined to home, with a 24 hours a day antibiotics drip. The drip is done by a very small pump and control equipment, very ingenious design. The medical technician who installed it, explained to me how it worked and how they program it. I am still a bit dizzy, but already thinking about the repair of the Oakland water pump. But the next 4 weeks I am not allowed to work on the cars. As Ann told me, after talking with the doctor, she will enforce what he told us 😡. Oh well, she right, but the next 4 weeks there will be no activities to report, just recovering and re-gaining my former weight (I lost a lot of it) . Thank you all for your good wishes Regards, Harm

Hello, I have not updated my blog for a while now. The reason is, I am in hospital with a nasty bacterial infection which is a bad one for my heart. I hope within due time resume my activities. Regards, Harm

Hello Al, Not that far, just 110 miles. Took us about 2 1/4 hours to get there. Regards, Harm

Hello, back from the tour, the Flanders ran perfect. But the weather, oh boy, cold, wet and windy. When we came home we did not feeling well, catches a cold. At home again the same lousy weather. Oakland: I removed the radiator and flushed it with water, some crud came out. After a wile it seems to be clean inside, did not detect obstruction of the water flow. Then I disassembled the water pump, seems to be very worn. The aluminum area round the extra hole is paper thin. Water pump which has seen better days. A very worn out, water pump with a hole in the suction part of the pump. The 'extra' hole prevents the pump from pumping, which is to my opinion the cause of the engine running hot. The problem is now how to repair this pump. The 'cold' water tube to the engine blocks. Not much left to clamp the flexible rubber tube on. 'Hot' water tube, the walls at some point are paper thin. The aluminum water tubes to and from the engine are heavily corroded and dissolved, I think it is better to make new ones from brass. Regards, Harm

Hello, The coming week Ann and I are traveling with our 1912 Flanders20 in Germany, going to Ibbenbüren with the Flanders on the trailer. It is a tradition for us to participate in the the so called "Ibbenbürener Schnauferltage" (the 15th for us). It is an endurance rally, the number of participating cars is limited to 20 for the week and 40 for the weekend. Furthermore its for brass cars exclusively. Daily distance about 100 to 120km, with hills and some not to steep mountains. We are looking forward to it, meeting old friends and hopefully meeting some younger new comers (as we all growing old😒). I had planned to take the Oakland with us, but "the best laid plans of mice and men often go awry", and that is a true spell 😒. Best regards, Harm

Last week I repaired and put the dust pan under the car. That is a hell of a job, to get all the bold holes lined up correctly is not an easy task. So I can say, I spend more hours under the car than sitting in it. The dust pan is essential in cooling the engine. The fan is part of the flywheel.The flywheel fan sucks the air through the radiator and push it to the back of the car. Mmm, will see if that works. Last three days, Ann and I made a few test runs. All went well, till our last run today afternoon. The engine started without a problem, but after 5 miles it ran hot and did not want to accelerate. So we took a short cut home. Further I noticed some vibration which got worse during the last few miles home. At home the engine lost most of its cooling fluid and started steaming. Way to hot it is. I let the engine cool down and filled the radiator with clean cooling fluid and checked the oil level. The oil level was OK. After starting the engine again, it pumped out the cooling fluid through the overflow pipe very fast. So I think the radiator is blocked wit crud, or the water pump has given up the ghost (which seems unlikely) or may be also filled with crud). Ann inspected the radiator, she told me that she thinks it was repaired many times. Well I never looked at the radiator before, but Ann is right, so this is another piece of junk on this car. Furthermore the vibration worries me a lot. I must say this is all a bit disappointing. As we go next week to Germany, to take part in a 7 day tour, the next days I have to prepare our Flanders model 20. Regards, Harm

Dear all, Last week I worked day and night to complete the Oakland. Put on a temporary 'make shift' muffler. That went well, but we got visited by friends so it took more time than I hoped for. Thursday I tried to start the engine, lots of smoke and very loud bangs. May be an Ignition problem? The p.o. had an electronic ignition installed, but as no schematics where available, the only thing I could do to fire up the old SUN 1120. Hooked the number one cylinder pick-up and looked at the picture on tube, and that did not looked good. Only irregular spikes. The p.o. used an Bosch DU4 magneto and rebuild it with an pick-up sensor and some kind of (for me) unknown electronics. The high tension was disabled and the direction of rotation changed from CW to CCW. Must say, very clever done. When I got the car, it ran nicely on the electronic ignition, no idea what happened. Instead of spending a lot of time tracing the information about the electronic ignition, I decided to remove it, and install the original Remy ignition which I had on the shelf for some 25 years. Spent a lot of time to get the timing right, forgot that the Oakland engine rotated CCW 😡. But after a lot of tries I got it running (on battery not yet on magneto). No smoke and no fuss, the engine starts fast and runs very well. The original magneto for the car is a Remy model S, I used an RL. Today (Monday), Ann and I pushed the car out of the shop and mounted the car 😊 (34" wheels, so its a bit tall). I started the engine and put it in first gear, slowly released the clutch and off we go. Just a small run just about 50 yards, no problems so far. Brakes functioned more or less, put it in reverse gear no problems. Well, after some coffee and apple pie, what to do next? As it is still early, 9:00 o'clock, and there are no biking tourists on the road at this early hour, we opted for a 6 mile drive. Now I could try the second and third gear. Conclusion: after this 6 mile test, the clutch behaved perfect, no shuddering, no jumping no slipping. The car is a very strong runner, during the test drive we drove up a small hill, no problem at all. No whining of gears, no temperature increase of the gear box, clutch and rear axle. So I guess all the adjustments of the gears worked out OK. Changing gears went well, no crashing sounds, clutch behaved silk soft. Fluids used: Rear axle 85W140 Hypoid (Mineral oil). Gear box: 80W90 GL4 Gearbox oil Clutch: ATF 220 (Red) Engine: 10w45 Classic (Half-synthetic) Coolant: Universal coolant ready to use (Pink) In the excitement of the run, I forgot to take pictures 🥵. Next run I will take pictures. Things to do: fixing the windscreen (upper part wont stay up), buying a muffler, repairing and fitting the dust pan. Furthermore, there are lots of small chores to do. As there are: repainting some scratches, assembling accessories (spare tires holder, fitting the speedometer, fitting the horn and head lights and so on). Making a new top, the existing one is white and dirty and beyond repair. Besides that black looks much better on a green car. Making a tonneau cover and side screens. Relining emergency brake bands. One last remark, Ann is very happy how the car behaved 🥰. And as the saying goes: Happy wife, happy life ☺️. Regards, Harm PS This is not the end of this story, I will keep you informed about the progress 😉.

Yesterday and today, I spent a lot of time to assemble the rear axle and third member. Made all the necessary gaskets, and some special nuts and bolts. Many original were not usable anymore 😡. After nearly 3 years off and on, I hope to put the drive train Saturday under the car. The things left to do, is installing the battery, battery switch, starting switch and electric wiring. My goal is to have it running on Sunday.... but as the saying goes: Even the best laid plans of mice and man often go awry . 😉 Drive train ready for the car! Regarding the cluster gear: as the manufacturing will need a lot of time and preparation, I decided to postpone it to November. At the moment the tour season starts, so Ann and I are a lot "underway". Furthermore, gardening will absorb a lot of time and energy. Regards, Harm

Hello gentlemen, thank all you for your advice and interest for my struggle with the Oakland. . @Joe, the gears are DP6 with a 14.5 degrees PA. The central shaft on which the cluster gear runs in the gear box has a diameter of 1". Below is a quick sketch, I did not yet draw the bronze bushings with the outside flanges (all dimensions in mm). Inspecting the existing cluster gear, i saw some traces of rough welding between the gears. Further more, the large riveted gear is also welded at 4 points at the flange (belt and suspenders ??). Conclusion: its not a very precisely made piece of cluster gear, a bit rough I would say. Making the gears would be not much of a problem.... (I am an optimistic person 😄), I have the needed profile cutters and an horizontal milling machine. Would be a nice adventure. Regards, Harm

There is one thing which worries me a lot, and that is the cluster gear. For test driving the Oakland I will use it as is, but for longer distance driving a good one is needed. Finding a better used one is impossible, as the are not many 1910 model K's left. So as a first shot, I asked around what it would cost to make a new one, well to make a long story short: a lot. But that is of no concern for me, because no one would take on the job. So what to do? I have an idea to make one as an assembly of keyed gears on a shaft. Just to know what I am talking about, I made some drawings of the cluster gear. I think it can be done, but I can't find much on the internet about it. Also my books don't help me any further. Gentlemen, do you know if that approach of making a cluster gear has be done successfully before? Below pictures of the object of my sorrows. To me it looks that the cluster gear is not hardened very well. Further it seems that the missing teeth of the main gear went through the gears on the cluster gear. Also a lot of wear on some of the gears. Regards, Harm

I decided to broach the existing key way in the hubs. Made them 10 mm, that is right for an 1.378" shaft size, according to the SAE instruction for key ways. First I made a tapered bushing for broaching the hubs. Tapered bushing for key way broaching the hubs. Milling the key way for guiding the broach into the tapered bushing. Bad picture of the tapered bushing into the hub (backside). Picture of the tapered busing into the hub (front side). At last: broaching the hubs with a widened key way. Then I milled the key ways, widening them to 10mm into the 2 shafts. Used a level and some tapered shims under the hub, to be sure the widened key way is made horizontal. All went well, lost only one small tooth edge of the broach. Broaches are made to use the whole width of the teeth, not just a small part. The keys fitted nicely. I am satisfied, no clonking noises for the wheels anymore (I hope). Regards, Harm

Hello gentlemen, thank you you for your advice. Below are some pictures of the half shafts (yesterday I managed to delete them on my telephone 😒). Both finished half shafts. Shaft end with key way Shaft end with differential gear. Drivers side hub with the tapered hole and "offending" key way, the passengers side hub is even worse. First option would be: widening the key way to 10 mm (my old 3/8" broach is missing some edges on the teeth 😒, delivery time of a new one -6 weeks..-). My doubts are, that this key way will be much wider than the existing one, I have no idea what the mechanical implications are. Another option would be: leaving the key way at the shaft as is (5/16") and broaching a new one at the opposite direction of the existing one, and filling up the existing one. I am still pondering what to do. Regards, Harm

Hello, today I ran in a nasty problem. Last week I finished the half shafts, milled the key ways (5/16") and fitted the keys to test it with the hubs. At first glance the keys fitted nicely into the key way of the hubs. But I got a bit suspicious because on the end of the hubs (at the brake drum end so to say) I saw about 3/64" play. Taking the half shaft out and measured the key way at the hub, the hub key way seems tapered over the full length (about 5"). I guess this wear is caused by non fitting keys or lose half shaft nuts. To rectify this there are some solutions: broaching a new larger key way (3/8") or turning out the core of the hub brazing a new core in it, turning a new taper and broaching the correct key way. But I am a bit stuck now, what to do to repair this? Gentleman can you give me some advice what to do? Regards, Harm

Hello Al, Spring came slowly but went away very fast, may be next week its getting better.... It seems Spring has a bit of a starting problem 😄. Yesterday I took the mower -John Deere X740- out, came half way (1 acre of the 2) ran very hot, V belt broken, well, not a good start of the mowing season 🤬. I hope to have the Oakland running end of April.... The brakes need some attention too. Regards, Harm

Hello, I started last week trying to assemble the multi plate clutch. That went well, till I tried to move the clutch plates against each other. Sometimes it went more or less smooth (but with a lot of force), but most of the time it get stuck and they wont' move at all. After trying the same with the broken hub, the movement of that one went very smooth. Inspecting the slots in the hub it dawned to me that the slots in the reproduction hub, that are the slots with the fixed pins were to small and had a wrong angle. So, putting the hub into the milling machine and made the slots larger and on the right angle. The consequence of all this was that I had to turn new bigger pins. After some fiddling and small adjustments, the mechanism now works very smooth. Multi plate clutch mechanism, with the modified slots enlarged pins. Parts of the multi plate clutch. Left side: assembled clutch plates with inner hub and clutch movement mechanism. Middle: Universal Joint Right: clutch plates outer hub, bearings and driven gear (in side the gear box) Same parts as above, pictured at the back. Yesterday I painted the clutch and gear box housings. Painted clutch and gear box housings. To morrow I hope to start with tuning new half shafts. The current half shafts: one to short and the other one to long and with a botched screw thread (not repairable). Furthermore the square part for the differential gears is just to small (on both half axles). Regards, Harm

Hello, Found the parts I needed. Regards, Harm

Hello, I am restoring (very slowly) an 1935 851 Auburn cabriolet. I am looking for a left hand steering arm and front axle backing plates. Regards, Harm

Hello Al, yes I did it that way. But Ann assisted me, as you have to work fast. The rivet cools rather fast. The last action (after hammering) is heating the hammered head to a white / yellow heath and using a small pneumatic hammer with a rivet tool to make a nice round head. Regards, Harm

Hello all, thank you for your kind words. I consider the upholstery part as done. Just left some small chores to be done when I put the hood on the car. Last Monday I send the ring and pinion to a Steel Hardening Company. I used this company in the past, they will Nitrading the gears. Hope to receive the gear back at Thursday next week. To day I riveted both parts of the outer shell of the multi-plate clutch together. The riveting went well, see pictures. So, at last, I can start with assembling the clutch, gearbox and third member. Regards, Harm

Thanks.

Hello sir, are these handles still for sale or sold a long time ago? Regards, Harm

Hi Al, about 10 - 12 Lbs. So that is quite a lot. I think you will need the same amount for your Locomobile, maybe less if it is not diamond tufted but straight.

I have not been much in the shop. Last weeks were very cold 🥶 (for a Dutch point of view). As I keep the shop heated with a pellet stove, the stove was this time not up to the task. Instead I took the passengers rear seat into the nicely warm house, and upholstered it (the seat that is 😉). Fitting the back slab on the cushion was a bit hard in my fingers, pushing the half round needle through 6 layers of leather and some burlap is a heavy task. Thinking this over, and contemplating how large the back seat cushion really is, I thought that there must be an easier way to do this. So I looked at a website for horse saddle makers, tips, tricks and tools. Long story short: those people using a special tool for it. I ordered one at a leather shop. Its not expensive at all, I payed $35 for it. Well that was quiet a revelation, I don not say its easy, but its really a much less though job now. It works like a small hand sewing machine. You push the needle trough all the layers you wish to be sewn. Retread it a little till it forms a small loop on the end of the needle, and feed a sew thread through the loop. And then repeat it, to sew the back slab to the side slabs took me 6 hours. But on the end, my fingers were not nearly as sore as when I made the front cushions. Here is the result of my labor: Regards, Harm

Today I competed the sewing of the back slab to the side panel of the passengers seat cushion. Put it into the car, not unhappy with the result. Only thing to do is: investigate what causes the wrinkle on the right side of the seat. Same happens on the drivers side 😡. On the picture it can clearly be seen, in reality not so much, but I can unsee it anymore, very annoying. I started covering the back seat with hessian. Next thing to do, sewing side panels. Passengers cushion, ready for installation into the car. Detail of the cushion back slab sewn to the side panel. Completed front seats. Hessian on the rear seat. Regards, Harm

Hello Al, good luck. 😉