BulldogDriver
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Posts posted by BulldogDriver
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John have you by chance bench tested the booster using a Mityvac? Cap the ends off and pull 18-21” of vacuum and see if it holds. If your ears are still good, have a listen for the leak or get an assistant that can hear, I have to all the time now days.
When I went to dual circuit/disc brakes I eliminated all of the original stuff and went with unit from a 70’s buick. Pedal is a bit harder but it stops just fine.
Ray
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Air with aftermarket radio and oil pressure/engine temp/volts, cruise control, dual usb and spare led indicators. Lower side vents controlled by the original console levers.Ray
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Ed I think Vintage Air’s catalog would show dimensions for each evaporator unit.
Ray
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Ed, Here is a post on my install with the same issue.
And this.I installed a Vintage Air in my car and yes it is a bit of a challenge to fit it up tight inside, some minor cutting in the center area, and making some extensions for the floor vents, it is very doable using VA’s Gen4 evaporator unit. I think anyone that is up to doing their own work on a car can do this. I had the luxury of being able to do the firewall stuff without working around the engine, mine was out for other work, but others have done this with engine in place. I think one of the nicest things is to be able to use the original controls on my 63 car.
The biggest downside for me was losing about an inch of space for the radio and that eliminated the use of the original unit. I have discussed this in other threads. The VA seems to put out plenty of cold air. I’ve had it keep the inside tolerable in 90* plus with the windows down this summer. The thing with converting a R12 to R134 is one unit is made for a particular type of gas and changing over to another will diminish performance. My original AC looked to be rebuildable but once I got into the job it was going to be a lot like what Turbinator Bob went through.
So a conversion was looked into. As we are seeing with something as simple as getting an air filter has become impossible and any replacement part questionable as to their reliability will be even more so in the future. My decision to go this route was a matter of reliability and access to parts in the future. The VA conversion has been the least troublesome thing done so far on this car. Installed/charged and has worked fine since. Can’t say that about the other things that I’ve done.
I’ve got a good car but it is at best a driver and really doesn’t deplete the gene pool of all the strong original cars out there. It looks original inside and out until you open the hood.
Ray
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Ed, that should work. Tighten it down slowly as polyethylene bushings are a bunch less compressible than rubber. I used grade 8 hardware with extra flat washers up in the frame. You’ll need to use silicon grease. I went with 26mm and 22mm sway bars. Big difference on body sway.
Ray
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Talk to James at BestOfferCounts, pretty sure he will have one.
Ray
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Ed the sway bar caps can be gotten from Summit or Autozone, etc. Just match the bushing to the sway bar diameter. I’ll send you a pair of caps I have but the bushings are for a larger bar. PM me with your address.
Ray
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The rebuild kit I put into mine has a bearing unit that the to pieces mate to. I believe that was what was originally there but can’t be absolutely sure as it was 4 years ago when done.
Ray
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What Ed said is true.
Idler arms were rebuildable and I rebuilt mine. I believe Cars was the source for the kit. I believe that replacement units that ‘are not’ rebuildable are still available and probably from Cars.
Center links are rebuildable if you can source the ball joints. I’ve never come across a post with a part number for these, here or anywhere else.
My ball joints and upper control arms seem to still be in proper order but I did replace the boots on the ball joints using “universal” boots from one of the urethane manufacturers. You could do the same on the tie rod’s ball joints to the center link but as far as I know, there is no shim between the tie rods and link.
Ray
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Maybe a doubled up piece of tape at that area, than remove before fully seating the trim piece?
Ray
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They are nicely done and I’ll be replacing mine as soon as I get time to pull the unit.
Ray
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John it’s just the cigarette element used to light one up. Pull usb, insert element, back to 1963.
Ray
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Dakota Digital multi-gauge oil/volt/temp, usb, and Rostra cruise control. Plug-in usb in passenger socket with cig lighter in glovebox. Close ashtray door and swap usb/lighter and interior looks stock.
Ray
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My response was due to lack of members discussing an EV exchange and not his exploring such. Not something I would consider on our cars but it would be an interesting swap.
I have been involved with putting a pair of Mazda wankle engines in a boat before and that was a project. Lighter weight but gas hogs.
Ray
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I think he was on the wrong forum for his project.
Ray
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4 hours ago, OldGerman said:
Where are you located ? 4GC is a heavy beast, 6.3 kg. Oversea shipping to Germany !?
Stateside in North Carolina. If you come up with a way to include it into something coming your way, let me know and I’ll ship there.
Ray
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You want the whole 4GC carburetor from a 63? It was fine when I pulled it a couple years ago and it did a cross country trip right before removal. Just pay the shipping.
Ray
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Just bought a ‘66 spread bore intake with a rebuilt 66 Quadrajet. Didn’t brake the bank either. I’d looked at TA’s intake but the ‘66 seemed the better choice for me. Will use it on the spare 401 nailhead that’s next year’s project.
Ray
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You might want to rethink the use of those intake gaskets. Look at Matt’s Tech articles as to why using block offs for the carb heat ports is a good thing.
http://centervilleautorepair.com/
Ray
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I am almost 2 years into trying to get a couple of these filters. WIX was the last manufacturer of these filters that I can deduce. No one that I have contacted, more than I can remember, have these in stock. With all of the auto order bots that everyone uses today, you aren't going to get a real time response on these filters. They'll take the order then cancel it when their supplier gets back to them with “no gratis”. Fortunately I do have a spare one, but wanted to get a couple more. I see a 16”x3” being ordered in the near future.
I’m going to drive the wheels off by car. Was the plan when I bought it and still is.
Ray
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Jim,
Here’s were we beat this horse to death. Suprised to see this thread started.
Ray
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John,
If you are going to an Edlebrock carb the better choice would be
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-1913
You will also need a tuning kit if you go with the AFR gauge.
This AFR gauge will do the job quite well, been using it for several years now. I welded a bung into each down tube of the exhaust pipe below the manifolds to check both banks.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/avm-30-0300
The Rochester 4GC was also used on 401 blocks in the Riviera. I have one sitting on the shelf that came off of mine when I changed over to an Edlebrock. I also added a pressure regulator on mine. The Edlebrocks are sensitive to that. I don’t think the newer carb is going to improve MPG much. My improvement came from the overdrive transmission.
The Martins have several articles about carburetors on their site that might be worth reading.
http://centervilleautorepair.com
I’m sure others will chime in with their input.
Ray
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First Gen Door Instalation and Alignment
in Buick Riviera
Posted
Gordon, I thought the core body came painted before being put onto the frames. If so then the front clip would most likely have been painted in another plant and mated on final assembly, correct?
Amazing that the paint jobs were spot on.
Ray