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Henry Boler

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Everything posted by Henry Boler

  1. Tom we’re in miles over here. It’s mainland Europe that use kilometres. Looks like I’ll be having a chat with speedy cables UK then!
  2. There's a company in England called Speedy Cables (https://speedycables.com). They are very good apparently and do a lot of custom stuff to whatever your needs. So I might have a chat with them at some point. It's obviously a while before I actually need the speedo working mind! I need to measure up the threads on the gearbox and the speedo so I know what I'm asking for. Is a DA6 motor the same as what I have? I'm not familiar with all the names and numbers yet!
  3. And as of just 1 hour ago I had a go at sand blasting. Slow but very effective.
  4. Spoiler alert, if all goes to plan I’m going to try and sand blast the chassis. That solves the issue you mentioned. I’m going to try and do everything I can at home to make it rust free. Once sand blasted I’ll put on a rust treatment just to catch any last micro bits left behind and hopefully it’ll be all good then!
  5. Thanks for the tips! I'll keep my eye on the straightness, I do have a plastic wheel somewhere, those pesky steel bits are annoying and get stuck in your clothes too!
  6. I guess I could see if I can get a do it yourself cut to size kit and make the caps myself on the lathe if I have to.
  7. Thank you so much for this Tom, that's incredible. Couldn't have asked for anything more if I tried!
  8. Thanks guys for all the replies. I've located a few companies over here that might be able to help. Just awaiting responses from them. I will keep you all informed on this one! Haha, I didn't even think of that one! I was using the "Z". Silly me!!
  9. I've just released episode 7! Be sure to check it out! Links above.
  10. I've just released episode 7! Be sure to check it out! Links above.
  11. Thanks Tom, I don't have any of it left at all unfortunately. Must have been thrown away by a silly previous owner at some point in time. Interesting to see the photo you sent, I had a spare cable clip on the body I was wondering what it was for, now I know. Also, what are the big hoses going in to the cab on yours? Do you have heating in there or something?
  12. Thanks, I'm not familiar with them and couldn't find them on google... A reminder I'm in the UK, and I'm not keen on sending rare parts abroad as I'm sure you'll all understand. I guess I need to find someone that does that process over here then. Is vulcanizing the right thing to ask for then?
  13. Hello, me again! Having taken the engine out, I now need to have a good look at the three mounts before I'll be able to put it back in. The mounts consist of two steel plates with rubber in between. If I remember correctly, only 1 of the three was still intact, that being one of the rear mounts. The steel parts look fine and will come out like new from the sand blaster. However the rubber ideally needs changing on all three. And there's the problem. How is this achieved? I understand the metal is blasted to give it a grippy surface, and then the rubber is hot vulcanized into the gap and forms a bond so strong you could hang a truck off it. I can't find any information about the process at all, or anyone who can do it. Has anyone here come across this challenge? I was pondering about the idea of using polyurethane instead of rubber as you can mix it and pour it at home, but I don't know if it is strong enough a bond. It can be made black and look original presumably. Let me know your thoughts. Henry
  14. Thanks Tom, I'd really appreciate that if you don't mind. Could you get me the face plate thickness whilst you're in there too please? If you could get a photo of the face as square on as you possibly can, that would also be really helpful then I'll be 100% sure I've got an accurate model and then that can go in the archives then if anyone else ever needs a new face making for a gauge!
  15. I don't suppose anyone has any really clear close up shots of one of these gauges without the cap on so I can see the face? Also if anyone knows the exact diameter of the gauge face that would be handy too. Thanks.
  16. Hi All, I've just completed a full strip down and rebuild of the speedo on the truck. Pic attached. It now works perfectly which is really cool as it was seized solid when I got it. Is it possible to buy a new drive cable off the shelf or do I need to get someone to make me one? I'm aware of places in the UK that will do it. I will need to know the thread sizes to do that I guess. Also can you explain to me the route from the gearbox to speedo please? I know mine is a right hand drive, but it can't be too different. Also the length of the cable would be handy too if possible. Thanks. Henry
  17. I imagine with a new face it'll go together nice and easy. Just got to decide how to make it now! I've attached a nice side view too, just because I like it!
  18. Thanks Dave, it's interesting to see one of those double sided gauges in use. Mine just have a Dodge star in the lower half. Thanks Tom for the photos. They have enabled me to do this... (See photo attached) I now have a cad model of the gauge to work with. I've also attached a couple of shots of just how bad my gauge is!
  19. Hello, me again! I've just finally managed to get the fuel gauge out of my fuel tank revealing a bit of a mess, but all in all it will be possible to restore it. I'm after some photos of the gauge face so I can make a new one as the old one was completely rotten away. I could see there was a 1/4 and 1/2 marking on it but that's all I could make out. I'm thinking about making one out of brass and acid etching the new face onto it. Henry
  20. Wow, it got a little fiery on this thread whilst I was away! Thanks all of you for the massive list of suggestions, it's a huge amount more response than I could have imagined getting! In the end as it was mentioned that it should just pull off, I just went ahead and pulled it. A friend lent me a very nice puller that didn't struggle in the slightest. It went with a bit of a bang but came straight off without doing any damage to anything. I wasn't keen on beating it with a hammer, but if it had to come to that I would have been extremely careful with it. I'm not the type to just destroy something I'm not familiar with unless there's no choice! The chassis is now completely stripped of all parts apart from the 8 connections that hold the wheels on. All of this will be viewable in episode 7 I've also been working on cleaning the chassis and doing a bit of welding on the bad bits. Also, just so you know, episode 6 has just come out. HenRefurb Channel. Thanks again for all the help!
  21. Episode 6 is now out! See the links above for the playlist!
  22. Thanks all for the replies, really appreciate it! I think I have enough information to have a go again. Regarding the light switch, it is off and in a safe box in a far corner of the tent well away from harm, so don’t worry about that one! I have a friend with a much better stronger puller that I’ll try. I’ll put some releasing oil on it to soak in now too. Will let you know how I get on before you have to wait for the video! Henry
  23. Hi All, I've got to the stage where I need to remove the steering system from the chassis of my 1930 UF-10 truck. I have tried and cannot make the arm budge. I put a hub puller on the arm and didn't get anywhere. Do I need to try harder or use some heat, or am I missing something? I don't want to do any damage to the part. Photos attached. My attempts so far will come out in episode 6 by the way. 1930 Dodge Brothers UF-10 Restoration. Thanks in advance, Henry
  24. Thanks Tom! I will keep my eyes open for replacements! You weren't supposed to have been able to see episode 5 yet! I've only just released it publicly, but made a mistake on YouTube, oops! So you'll have to wait until next Tuesday for episode 6 now. For those who weren't aware, I have now just released Episode 5 to the public! See the link a few posts back to watch it!
  25. Thanks for the info Tom. I will probably end up changing the roof cover as it has gone really brittle and has a lot of cracks and tears in it. It is only held on with about 6 screws now so I can take it off very easily. I'll have a look and let you know what I find! Also, happy Independence Day you lot over the pond!
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