chris_kriner

Is it me, or is the link not working?

Go to this site on face book and become a member. "Lincoln Zephyrs & V12 Motors" https://www.facebook.com/groups/393195544566213 Post question there and or seek out a Ken Harris! Great guy might be able to help and time it for you. (he did mine, but I have a 46) Still a good group of ppl. Might have to cut and paste the link.

I had a guy redo my body tag for my 46 Lincoln. Very nice and full of info as well! You cant even tell and is spot on! His name and info is: Richard Hommel 2473 Giant Oaks Drive Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania 15241 Phone: 412-831-0411 If he doesn't answer leave a message and he is sure to call back.

19tom40 I am not getting a shock all the time. Only when I go to press the horn... Here Is a Pic of it. I dont think its suppose to look like this! Already in talks with Chris at Boo's for new screw insulators and formed "Sponge" seal....

Update.....I found out how to do what I was trying to do. All I needed to do was grab the Horn mechanism part (Chrome circle with center cap that reads "Lincoln Twelve") at the 1 O'clock position and the 7 o'clock position and twist. It will pop off and expose the Spring and what nots....

Thanks Ray500! The wheel is in great shape. I figured something is touching that shouldn't be touching.

OK...Checking off the "To-Do" list, and it is getting shorter! Next Project...How in the world do I go about removing the steering wheel? Or better yet, the horn mechanism? Trying to figure out why I would be getting a slight shock from the horn! Every time I press it, I get a slight ...ok ....a good shock! Very unpleasant surprise let me tell you! Hahahhaha...Ideas? My thoughts are bare or crossed wires in there. Last thing I want to do is damage the wheel in any way. Thanks everyone for your input! Chris

Classic tube is the company I used to redo my lines. Very good company and they fit perfect. I do recommend calling up Boos for other parts that the kit does not come with. Example: The Junction boxes. Clips and I ended up getting everything new past the Master (Copper washers/bolt and pressure switch) this was my mistake and couldn't figure out why I was getting no fluid in the back. Tried to reuse older parts that (you couldn't tell) were clogged. So whats a extra $50/60 from Boos....Make it all new, save the headaches and time

Hahhaha Oh my goodness.....I dont know if I am more scared now or not. How about plugs? Anyone find one set/maker works better then the next in these V12's? Can I just walk in and buy or is gaping still a thing with these ol girls like they did back in the day? ....Ray500...YES! On sprucing up and painting the housing. planned on it. I have done this with my oil bath cleaner already

Hello everyone...Shes coming along nicely! Cleaned her up the other day for the first time in MANY years. (See new icon pic) lol OK My questions. She runs great, no issues....YET.....While detailing the engine bay. I noticed on closer inspection how old and cracked my wires are. Its just a matter of time before something goes wrong. The spark plugs I couldn't even guess and tell you how old they are. Question #1: How hard is it to change the wires on this V12 and run them up into the tubes to the right place. I consider myself a good shade tree mechanic and have done many plug and play wires in my life. But this......lol...well......Should I even attempt his? Any tricks...advice...hey do this, but not that comments? I guess my biggest worry is snaking them up and through the tubes. 2nd Question: Recommendations On spark plugs? Which ones will make her run the happiest? Do I need to gap or are there pre gap ones I can just get, like everything else now a days?

OK.... update....It came down to two issues. Bad Master and rear junction (T block) box in the rear. In the processes of fixing the master, the pressure switch and bolt were damaged. Have new ones coming with new copper rings/seals. That should be the end of that issue hopefully. Thank you everyone for your thoughts and suggestions. Now to start a new thread about wires and plugs! lol

I was thinking about the Junction, Ill check that out...thanks!

Bloo.......No using DOT 3

Ray. Thank you. Stainless here as well. Not modifying anything. . keeping it stock. But like I said only thing "not" new is the master.

No we did not bench bleed. Never removed the master. Doing it in car. Hmmm we are pumping slow, so i dont think its foaming

Sorry Matt misspoke....You are right, Not Booster but master Cylinder. and thats not new. Everything else is brand new. and the lines were even pre-bent from shop...( I know i know doesn't mean they didn't mess up) Good point on a small reservoir and not holding a lot of fluid. I will check that out. Bleeders are snug. I agree its a simple system, so thats why we are lost and scratching our heads.

OK..Want to pick peoples brains................On my Lincoln (46) we replaces all brake lines front and back. New cylinders and all the rubber brake hose sets. Shoes are 90%. trying to bleed the brakes and the rears are not getting fluid or "enough" fluid to them. making them very spongy. Am I doing something wrong? what to look for? Booster?

No prob! Hes a great guy and full of useful information, if you are ever stuck needing to know something. Trust me! I know! Hahhahah Chris

Yes.... Contact this website and email found there..(see link)..... Gentleman's name is Chris.....Great guy and he will help you out. http://www.boos-herrel.com/

Mssr. Bwatoe, Thank you and I didnt paint the tube. Thats still the cast aluminum. I just cleaned her up. I did a 600 grit wet sand to clean her up (almost like polished aluminum)

All done

Thanks Bloo! I actually got it apart. But I still found that the internal can that contains the mesh is sealed....I mean really sealed up! Factory crimped edges, so there is no popping it open to take out mesh....Unless you physically open it up like a can opener, which im not doing! These are hard to find and not cheap when you do....Once I got it open, I see repairs were made or someone got aggressive with it. So they made a round flange and threaded it on the inside, then threaded the inner pipe/bar that makes it screw back on..(See pics) I know that's not stock...but hey, once its back together you cant tell. Picked up the Kerosene today and will start the cleaning/soak tonight. That canister that holds the mesh was what I had such a hard time getting out!

Kerosene Or Mineral Spirits will get all that old 70+ years of gunk out? You would think they would want you to replace that mesh at some point.

I finally tracked down the correct oil bath air cleaner for my 46 Lincoln. Now my question is, how do I break it down? I can get the bottom can off (That holds the oil and has the oil fill line). Now the top canister that has the decal that says wash filter in Kerosene. How in the world do I open it?!!! I can get it to twist and shift back and forth a 1/4 inch and thats it! What Am I doing wrong? I was told it doesn't come apart????....Then why the decal that says wash filter in Kerosene? I can post pics if needed...

Thanks guys. Ended up having mine restored.