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About 48Firetruck

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  1. So the question is: How do you get the younger generation gearheads and older independent clubs interested? What's the real advantage of becoming affiliated? And don't say the great magazine and camaraderie, there's more quality reading material on the internet than the magazine could print in 20 lifetimes and everyone already has friends with common interest. If the club doesn't have serious selling points beyond that to attract people then future recruitment is going to be a tough venture.
  2. ^^this^^ I'm no kid but seem to be one of the younger people in the hobby. I've been asked to join several clubs but it's hard to justify when I still work 50+ hours a week in the summer, many of the club activities are all day cruises that end up at expensive restaurants on a week day and meetings are an hour or more away and have little to do with cars. One big pet peeve that I've seen a lot is a younger person at a car show who has poured his heart, soul and money into a car that he's proud of even though it's nothing special to the rest of us and an older person walks up, looks at the non original amateur restoration and says "boy, they ruined that one". You want to discourage the younger generation, that's the way to do it!
  3. Not to hijack your thread, but it looks like you have a new fan belt. What belt are you using and how well does it work. I'm running a 60(?) year old belt on my 42 because I have yet to find a new one that fits and runs as well as the old one.
  4. Roof came from a Chevy Nomad. https://www.hagerty.com/articles-videos/articles/2019/03/04/2019-autorama-ridler-winner-took-15-years-of-work
  5. They actually eluded to that... They told me to hire a lawyer($$$) to research and "prove" the trucks ownership history (how?) and obtain proof that I owned the truck legally (I had a bill of sale that they wouldn't accept), then convince a judge that all my proof was legitimate and have the judge issue a court order to the title office telling them to make a new title. Let's just say the system, or at least our local title office, makes it expensive and time consuming enough to encourage obtaining a titles through avenues of questionable legality. BTW, we can't even take a car to the junk yard to be crushed without a title anymore. You have to sign the title over to the scrapper who marks it destroyed and sends it back to the state.
  6. That sounds like a great way to lose legal possession of your car. I looked into a similar deal a few years ago for a truck (might have been Broadway), my Ohio title office called that "title washing" and said they would not accept Alabama "bill of sale titles" because of so much fraud. Getting a title in Ohio proved to be almost impossible and very expensive through legal means.
  7. I don't believe in that kind of "ghost" or that a car could be haunted, however I have noticed that every time I work in the shop or do anything with my cars my money magically disappears. Strange...
  8. The battery itself acts as a buffer to voltage spikes. "Aerospace avioncs"? LOL. We're talking about a 28 year old Honda here. Never heard of any reason to disconnect a car battery while charging, not even on brand new computer controlled vehicles, or at least not the 31 less than three year old vehicles I currently maintain. To the original poster: disconnect if you want, it won't hurt a thing but there's probably more important things you could be doing.
  9. Charge it while hooked up. Not sure why you feel the need to disconnect a terminal...? The computer doesn't know the difference between power from a fully charged battery, power from a low battery being charged from your alternator or power from a battery on a charger or jumper cables. Every time your engine runs your battery is on a charger. Plus, if you disconnect the battery you'll lose all your radio and other electronic pre-settings.
  10. Nice Truck. I have a 48 Mack that came out of Bethlehem PA. It had been abandoned for 10 years in a fence row then sat in pieces in a barn for 13 years while we gathered all the missing parts to restore it. Lots of fun to drive around and I've been known to pull into the local ice cream stand with lights and siren to extinguish an "ice cream cone emergency". Not wanting to be taken too serious, I named my private Fire Dept. the "Littlelate Volunteer Fire Company", we offer same day service in most cases :-)
  11. Oh boy... prepare yourself for 100s of different opinions. Here's mine: Any oil you run today will be better than what was available back then. My favorite is Shell Rotella T4, 15-40 conventional. It's a heavy duty diesel rated oil with a high zinc content needed for flat tappet valves. It's very economical too so you can do frequent oil changes which is the key for engines with no filters or PCV valves.
  12. I'm also confused. The way this reads, you have 14'-6" of space between the garage door and retaining wall. Your car is 15'-8" long. My math says you'll hit the retaining wall 14" before your car clears the door when backing out. So no, that's not enough room.
  13. 48Firetruck


    So what caused the failure? Bad wheel? Bad tire? Irrisponsible driving? Pot hole? Gremlins? Any provable evidence of any single variable? I'm not trying to argue for the sake of arguing, I'm just trying to get actual FACTS about the issue. There are probably as many radials on old cars today as there are bias and while there may be an occasional failure it seems to be rare. Would be interesting to know the statistics of radial vs. bias failures.
  14. 48Firetruck


    I've heard the doom and gloom radial tire warnings more times than I can count and no one has ever been able to show a single documented case of an antique car crashing because of catastrophic failure of a radial tire. The fact that Coker would put their butt on the line speaks volumes and I'm no fan of Coker, but that's just another opinion...