Steven Meixner

I think it's from a car, whatever. The input shaft was modified to accept a pulley from a electric motor. It was probably mounted on a metal lathe, 3 speeds and reverse.

Still available

I'm assuming this is a oil pump. Brass construction.

This is my 1912 Hudson. Original paint and upholstery. One of my favorites to drive.

I'll try. Jack up the rear axle and put on stands. Move the park brake handle to neutral or even all the way forward. With the switch off choke all 4 holes twice. It's cold out. Turn the switch on, hopefully you get a chug, which means it's trying. Crank to get running, be ready to choke more. Make sure the carb adjustment screw is approximately 1 1/2 to 2 turns out from seated.

It eliminates the possibility that the exhaust system is completely plugged. 50 years ago I witnessed this. Rare occurrence but you seem to be struggling. Keep trying, you'll get it. Don't give up.

One more thought. Take the exhaust pipe completely off right at the manifold.

8 of them have 12 teeth. Middle 6 appear the same at a glance. $100 for all, $30 for 1 plus shipping.

I'm guessing Nash or Studebaker with those wheels.

This is proof to what I always tell my wife, I have to go look.

Anything is repairable, but might be cost prohibitive. If you needed this cylinder it would be priceless. I would say the top would have to cut off, repair to combustion chamber done, top welded back on.

The ID makes sense. There was a 1910 Overland at the auction this came from.

Free, pay shipping. 11" tall. 4"" bore. Top of combustion chamber broke. Has large F and A181 cast into it. Steve 701 212 5009

For Sale, New Price NORS Starter Drives and Bendix Springs.Chart for springs, nothing on drives. Approximately 80 of each. $200 for all. Located near Moorhead MN. Steve 701 212 5009

I've had 3 KRIT projects, a, 1911,13,14 and recently bid on a 1910. None of the engines looked like the one in question. They were only manufactured from 10-15.

Tether cars were miniature sprint cars, ranging from maybe 12" to 18" long. They had a rope ( tether) attached and raced on a track in a circle. Some also hooked the left side wheels to the track and were raced that way.

Does anyone have tether car knowledge, especially from the early 50s. Call or message Steve 701 212 5009

JFranklin is right on again. I'd clean the timer looking for metal filings, and clean, and remove all the coils and look for carbon tracks inside the coil box.

Like JFranklin said, is it sparking at proper time. On early camshafts it is possible to have the timer contact 180 degrees off.

I wonder if the exhaust is plugged somewhere? Unbolt the pipes right at the manifold, let them slide down maybe an inch, and re test vacuum.

Assuming the rear axle is centered under the crossmember, I would guess the wheelbase at 86".

JV, if you mean it had springs like a Cadillac Model 30, there are no mounts on the side of the frame forward of the rear axle.

Layden is onto something. Hups had a rear cross leaf, both Model 32 and 20. RB brackets to far apart for 20. The 1 picture of a 32 rear crossmember spring mount I found appeared different.

The car 28 Chrysler posted is way to big. There is a small chance it's European, but I found this in the middle of nowhere North Dakota.

Front motor, RS exhaust. RB brackets have 277 cast in. Rear spring bracket has 188. I feel to wide and short for cycle car. What is it?