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Everything posted by Riv_fanatics

  1. Total confusion here and yes, i interchanged the Century with a Special, my bad... Prev owner told me he did swap to a 401, but i can't verify it, who can help me here to be sure, it issa 401 due to # or whatever? Ty guys for ur help... Regards, Ron
  2. I only know about the difference in hp between Special and all other models in '58 based on cr, not there is also differences between manual and auto trans, only the Special can be ordered with a 3 speed syncromesh... Article from Hometownbuick in attachment... Regards, Ron
  3. Now fully dismantled the fuel pump today and i found gas in lower cap, which doesn't have to be there, i assume?! Ordered rebuild kit yesterday and waiting now on shipment, they told me to swap also the valves, but scared me a bit, only by press fit, if they stay in their place... Regards Ron
  4. Yes, most of his sayings r still true, think i need a full adjustment on carb and ignition, then acceleration can be better, we will see... I have a Super, only Century has the low compression ratio 8.5, all others has a 10 and 300hp instead of 250, for sure big numbers in that time, if all wents good, i hit a dyno this year for adjustment... Regards, Ron
  5. Ty Mr. Arrow for enlighten me here 😉, there r way more spots to look at, but the oil too, maybe flush the whole system with oil additives and the fuel path too, cuz there where a lot of debris inside the diaphragm, it was eating his self, so to say... Regards, Ron
  6. Thank u gentleman's, i bit restrained color would be also fine for me, but it is, what it is, not that big choice here on a 2dr hardtop coupe and yes, ppls in Germany freak out everywhere, if they see that car !!! Where r numbers or letters on that engine to determine which one it is? I heard about in the distributor area on the block and see some numbers on the head?! Regards, Ron
  7. Ty sir, this is what i expected, a pump below 50 bucks new can't do their job properly in a long distance manner, i think i use a oem rebuild kit, i see no damage on housing etc. Regards Ron
  8. Hey fellas! Next shit here, my mechanical fuel pump died to a porous diaphragm, what should i do the best now, buy whole aftermarket pump from Carter or Airtex, seen them starting at $20, but gives me no good feeling with that price or better use a rebuild kit for oem pump for $65? Next question is, i don't know which pump i have due to the swap of engine to 401, they r all the same on a nailhead? Regards, Ron
  9. I looked at the valley pan, but there where no letters visible, only difference i see is one bolt hole from power steering bracket is missing on thermostat cross member from head to head and oil dipstick part# said it's from a '65 engine, any additional ideas how to verify a 401 engine? Sadly i forget to introduce me and my car in the welcome area, will do that asap...
  10. Yes, would be the best to leave all as it is for less stress, i want drive, not wrench... Btw, my first car is a Cadillac, but "only" 2005 CTS-V 😁 Thx for ur input here guys, i will follow ur advice and stay original in drivetrain, if i want more, i have to buy another car with better options for tuning and no, i would never swap to another makes engine, the Nailhead was 90% the reason to buy this car and it has a 401 in it from prev owner... Regards, Ron
  11. It's all good, i can hear ya all and i don't wanna track a '58 Buick, it isn't the only car i own, it's only that German engineer in my self which keeps me trying, to make good things even better, u overrated my post or questions here so please be calm and don't try to interpret things, i never said before, so no track, no burn outs and in the end no better fuel mileage was the goal here, ty guys! So to say, it's a complicated system at all, i can't change the converter with another loss on the other side, if i want something "better", i have to swap everything to a drivetrain of a
  12. I want more/better acceleration, they all said, most of the power from engine is lost in flight pitch and auto trans, so these r the 3 parts where i can change to get more acceleration, converter, trans and rear diff ratio... To use the mechanical way like shift from L to D doesn't sound healthy, in regards to longevity?! And every connection from radial seal on inlet main shaft to the rear is pissing, so i have to change every gasket and i'm thinking of, why not do anything better here, while i'm in there?! Regards, Ron
  13. Dear fellas! I'm Ron and new to this forum here, this is my first question... I've bought 58 Super 2dr hardtop coupe and want to get rid of stupid flightpitch convertor and maybe swap to a 3 or 4 gear overdrive auto like TH350 or 200R4! Which options did i have here, read about a fully swap to open driveshaft, cuz tq tube won't work? What about to swap to a fixed stall converter instead of flight pitch? And any options on a shorter rear gear ratio like 3.91 or 4.11, and gear sets from prev or similar Buick rear ends may match here?
  14. Whats the price on hood springs, if they need to be fabbed a set? Regards, Ron
  15. Joe, did u get a set in the meanwhile, which was it and did they fit properly, cuz i need them too?! Greetz, Ron
  16. Which rims r those and which width/diam? Regards, Ron
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