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1935 Buick Special 46c

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  1. My research shows the color is Raleigh Blue which was one of the options in 1935 for 46c’s.
  2. I had heard 16 were left but 15 is close. I am having to put mine in the shop after the first to install a new clutch, throw out bearing and pilot bearing.
  3. My clutch is frozen. It will not shift into gear when the engine is running. It will shift into gear when the engine is NOT running. We got four big guys to rock the car while in gear and not running and clutch is still frozen. We started the car while clutch pedal was pushed in and the car jerked as the clutch was still frozen. We pulled the access panel from the clutch housing and could see the throw out bearing (?) pulling clutch back from the transmission but the clutch was still stuck to the fly wheel. Ideas?
  4. Thanks Mark. Interesting idea. I will give it a shot before I crawl under and start taking things apart. John P. #50690
  5. Gentlemen and ladies, I have a beautiful 1935 Buick Special 46C. After storing it for 3 months I restarted the car. I started on the first crank. But when I went to shift the car it would not go into any gear. It just ground loudly. It appears the clutch has slipped. How do I adjust the clutch to allow it to disengage the transmission? Thanks in advance for the help. John P. #50690
  6. Thanks Oldtech. I'll track the battery cable and see if there is a bad connection.
  7. Thanks Rock10, Oldtech and Buick35. I have the starter switch under the accelerator. There is no electrical current when I press the accelerator to the floor.
  8. Gentlemen, I have a 1935 Buick Special 46C. Shortly after the big freeze in Texas I started the car. After the starter dragged a little it started and ran well. I went back two weeks later and tried to start the car. The starter made a one second crank and then nothing. The gauges did not work, the headlights did not work, nothing worked. It was dead. I changed out the battery to a spare 6 volt I have and again nothing. I put a voltmeter on the old battery and it was still showing 6.25 volts so no problem with the battery. I think it is a blown fuse of some type. Any thoughts? John P., BCA #50690
  9. Greg, mine came from the Volo Car Museum. An estate out of Missouri was selling off the car collection. Here is the car. Painted in original Raleigh Blue. Convertible with a rumble seat. Trunk has custom fit luggage. Send a picture of yours. John P. BCA # 50690
  10. Greg, the more I look at my Stromberg carburetor the more I see it has been modified by the previous owners. The car came from north of Chicago so starting the car on frozen mornings probably required a choke. In Texas now I don’t need to use it much. Thanks for the comments. John BCA #50690
  11. Gentlemen, all good advice. Here is what I did and the results. First, I pulled the in-line fuel filter (between the gas tank and the fuel pump). It was full of gunk and trash. I replaced this with a new one. The car immediately started but then died after about a minute and would not restart. Then I pulled the air breather and checked the carburetor. Two problems. The flapper or choke was frozen in almost a closed position. No wonder it would not start. I pulled the choke knob on the dash and could barely get it to move. Crawling under the dash I found that the choke cable was bent at a 90 degree angle around the lever for the hood vent. No wonder it was hard to pull and that it was stuck in one position. I replaced the choke cable and the choke flapper is now working fine. I'm wondering how the car even ran with this problem. The second issue is that the carburetor was full of trash and gunk and the seals and gaskets were falling apart. I had bought a carburetor rebuild kit a few months back and it came in handy. I rebuilt the carburetor after cleaning it out. Now the engine starts instantly and idles smoothly. In fact the idle is now to fast I guess because that is the only way the engine kept running. I have now backed off on the idle. Very pleased with the results. Hope this helps anyone with the same issues. John P. BCA # 50690
  12. Gentlemen, This morning my 1935 Buick Special 46C started well and ran well for about an hour. Then at a stoplight she died and would not restart. After trying to crank for a few minutes I stopped at which point a local police officer instructed me I had to move the car or it would be towed. I cranked it again and she started and was able to move her about 50 yards to a parking lot where again she stalled. After cranking a few times the 6 volt battery failed and I had her towed home. After switching in a spare battery I tried to restart. Although several times the engine came close to starting it never did. On another classic car I had a vapor lock problem that I fixed with an electric fuel pump. When the electric fuel pump is on there is no vapor lock. I live in Houston, Texas and it hit 91 degrees yesterday. The 1935 Buick has an electric fuel pump switch also but it was not on when the car died. I turned it on when trying to restart with the new battery and you can hear it running. But the car still would not restart. Maybe its possible the fuel filter next to fuel pump is clogged. It is clear and I cannot see anything blocking the filter but maybe there is. The engine is a straight 8, 222 cubic inch, 93 HP. It has run very well since I bought the car last October. Has anyone had this issue before? Any ideas? Thanks in advance for your help. John P. BCA #50690
  13. Gentlemen, My 1935 Buick Special 46C has been stalling when I come to a stop. I have bumped the idle up and that seems to help. It has been suggested that I run a can of carburetor cleaner through the gas tank to clean out the carburetor jets. Has anyone done this? Any issues with it damaging a 1935 car engine? Does this work? Thanks in advance for any advice. John P. BCA #50690
  14. Gentlemen, I have a 1935 Buick 46C. It is a convertible with a rumble seat. It also has a large trunk mounted on a platform hanging off the back bumper. Does anyone know if the trunks were factory installed or were they an aftermarket item? My trunk seems a little large for the space. In looking on line, pictures of model 46C's show a slightly smaller trunk. But the trunks I see on model 66s look the same as mine. Is it possible that my trunk was actually designed to fit the slightly larger model 66? Or is it possible that the first owner bought the trunk from an after market manufacturer and then modified the base to make it fit. Thanks for your help. John P. #50690
  15. Gentlemen, I have a 1935 Buick Special 46C. It has the luggage trunk mounted to the back of the car. It hangs above the bumper on a platform. I am having difficulty getting the fuel spout into the gas tank. I have looked at the platform which holds the trunk with a couple of large screws and with two large, chrome wing nuts (one on each side). I am hoping there is a way to swing this forward so I don't have to take the entire platform apart and remove the trunk. Any ideas? John P. # 50690
  16. Jim, Thanks for the tip. I will check with the "Jesser" key guy. John
  17. I am a first year Buick Club member. BCA# 50690. I have a 1935 Buick Special 46C. I have been told there are only 15 of these left. I am trying to find other owners of 1935 Buick Special 46C's. Is there a membership directory or a listing of cars by owner that I can access? Thanks for your help. John P. #50690
  18. Donlock, Do you have blanks for the keys for my 1935 Buick Special 46C? Here are pictures of the keys front and back? Thanks in advance. John P. #50690
  19. Buick35, Here is your picture. Josephine, which is her name, was a frame off restoration done well over 10 years ago. She is a 46C Convertible with a rumble seat. The trunk has custom fit luggage from 1935. The engine is a straight eight of 230 cubic inch generating 92 hp. The color is Raleigh Blue which is the original color. Currently I have Josephine in a paint shop getting some touch up work done. Thanks for your interest. John P. #50690
  20. Jon, What great info. Thanks for taking the time to type this up. I will give it a try once I get my Buick back. Currently, she is in a paint shop getting some touch up work done. In two weeks when I get her back I will take up the carburetor and idle issue. Thanks again. John P. #50690
  21. Thanks for the response Bob. Idle circuits? I don't know what those are. I simply adjusted the set screw to increase or decrease the idle speed. John P. #50690
  22. Gentlemen, I have a 1935 Buick Special 46C. It has a straight 8 engine with 222 cubic inches. The car starts well and runs well. A good driver. The problem I am having is after driving at speed when coming to a stop the car will sometimes stall. I recently adjusted the clutch to make sure the transmission was disengaging from the engine. That seemed to help some. When I purchased the car the idle was set high so I reduced the idle. Is it possible that the idle was intentionally set high to prevent the problem I am having? Or is it something else. A friend suggested the carburetor was set too rich and should be adjusted. He said when following the car that he could smell gas after I had to restart the stalled car. This could have been a flooding issue. Any help will be appreciated. John P. #50690
  23. I have a 1935 Buick Special that is painted Raleigh Blue. There are a few rock chips and scratches that I wish to touch up. I do have a small bottle of touch up paint that matches. Does anyone have any recommendations for touching up the paint or a website or a you.tube video that they would recommend? Also, do you have a touch up paint shop to recommend in the Houston area? Thanks in advance for the help. John P. #50690
  24. Gentlemen, I am the proud owner of a "new" old 1935 Buick Special 46C. She runs well and starts well. The issue I am having is that occasionally when I come to a stop the car stalls. I am pressing the clutch pedal all the way to the floor and it doesn't disengage from the engine until the last inch or two. I'm thinking that the clutch linkage or cable has become loose or stretched and that is the problem. If I tighten up the clutch cable then the clutch should disengage from the engine much sooner when I press on the clutch pedal. If I slide the stick shift (its on the floor) into neutral and coast to a stop the problem does not occur. I then shift into first to begin accelerating. Does this make sense or should I be looking in another direction? John P. BCA #50690
  25. Don, I have three keys. One has a code stamped on key of: B1198C. The second one has a code of: 293. Finally, the last has a code of CH545. Thanks for your help. John P.
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