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JeffH

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  1. What voltage does the tender provide? Also, consider just putting the tender on for shorter periods of time. I never use one and simply pull the negative terminal when the car is not in use. If the car remains un-used for longer than a month or two, I put my standard charger on it for a day, just to top off the charge. If your battery is in good condition, this should work fine. A tender is really for a more modern vehicle that has multiple computers - each with full-time quiescent current draw. Some new cars are in trouble as soon as 2 - 3 weeks (airport parking lot scenario)
  2. I love trucks of this vintage, and the Chevrolets in particular. If I am not mistaken, these trucks would have had essentially the same engine as the passenger cars (217, then 235 - correct?). I would not be surprised to hear of a different carburetor, intake manifold, cam shaft... but essentially the same engine. Also, they would have had a 4-speed, with a very low 1st - supplemented with a 2-speed rear. Please correct me if I am wrong. Granted, the loads were less, and speed limits were lower. But, WOW, what a difference to today's trucks. Even the larger trucks
  3. Pretty sure bumper mounts are not the same from '37 to '38. Jeff
  4. GREAT DISCUSSION! Thank you for the education. To share the extent of my ignorance, I had no idea they made Standard and Super Beetles at the same time. Also, although I knew (of course) about general engine displacement increases, headlight and tail light changes, etc. - I only knew about this stuff in general terms. What can I say, my only Volkswagen was a 1966 Type 3 Squareback. (it was my first car, well-used by the time I got it - but I loved it!) Can you elaborate a little further on the specific years for the Standard vs. Super Beetles, and their models / fea
  5. May be a bad assumption on my initial ID of the '72. I thought that Super Beetles had MacPherson struts, initially with a more rounded hood, later with the curved windshield as well. That is about the extent of my knowledge! I would love to see a breakdown of models in this transition time-frame... U.S only would simplify it??? Looks like there is more to it than I ever knew. Jeff
  6. Timely coincidence on the Super Beetle picture. The new neighbors across the street had their parents visiting, and the Dad walked over to visit with my '38 Buick and introduce himself. In the course of our conversation he mentioned that he was a VW guy, and currently had a '72. He was into keeping it totally stock, but made one modification, and that was to lower the front end - only slightly. He mentioned that the MacPherson strut Beetles always sat a little high in the front - I now see what he meant by this picture. He also mentioned that the MacPherson strut cars are second class cit
  7. I would like to move this speedometer out of the basement, and prefer dealing with an AACA member. Jeff
  8. That would be: http://www.bills-speedometer.com/ in Bellbrook, OH.
  9. I agree with you Jake, this one is specifically for a '51. I would recommend Bill's Speedometer for your calibration needs. Jeff
  10. Not sure, but I will try to find out. Best to get a picture of yours to be sure.
  11. I have a nice '51 Ford Speedometer for sale. This came to me used, from a garage clean-out of a former Ford dealer. I did the following: cleaned correctly lubed new green and red mylar for the turn signal and bright indicators calibrated reset odometer See pictures for calibration compromise (about 62 mph indicated, vs. 60 actual, and 28 indicated vs. 30 actual - typical compromise!) $120 plus shipping Jeff
  12. Great feedback... maybe the production number will clear this up. Certainly possible that there was a mid-year change. Jeff
  13. Could this be for a '38? The reason I ask is that I have had both a '37 and '38 gearbox on my '38 Special. The '37 was on it originally, for reasons unknown. When I got a '38 gearbox, and had both of them apart to make up the best from the two, I learned that the '37 and '38 have a different sized clutch spline, and the '37 used a bolt-on retainer that held the clutch gear bearing in place. This was eliminated on the '38 models (as your third picture seems to show). The only reason the '37 fit my '38 clutch housing was because someone had modified the '37 gearbox to eliminate this feature
  14. If you are not a complete stickler for authenticity, think about this... I bent my hose clamp to allow it to be secured to the battery's front hold-down bolt (the long bolt that passes through the battery clamp and secures the battery). This pulls the hoses away from the engine a bit, and allows them to run more along the side panel. Works great, and I think the engine appearance is improved - as well as spark plug access or access to my later model (1950) oil filter. Just a suggestion. Jeff
  15. You may want to road test it. Adding some rpm to the pump may make the difference. I cannot say whether or not this is true on my '38, but I distinctly remember my 1970 AMC Hornet - perfectly good heater output, unless you were idling on a very cold day... heater temperature dropped off to nothing, warming up again as I drove off. Jeff
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