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JeffH

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  1. Please suggest to this guy that he put some additional lighting on the rear of the car!! The speed difference of someone coming up from behind can be dangerous, even on a secondary road.
  2. Carbking - your explanation lines up exactly with my findings over the years with my '38 Buick Special. (fitted with the Stromberg AAV-167 - factory recommended service replacement carb). Many people will chime in with the quick answer - "Vapor Lock". However, this is not the case. Fuel percolation / expansion, exactly as you describe, is the culprit. The starting technique is just like you describe as well. But, here is what stumps me... my local old car buddies ('39 Packard Six, '50 Hudson Commodore, '37 Dodge, '40 Packard Super Eight) have no such issues! Must be just the difference in the way the carb and fuel lines tend to heat soak on one car vs. another. But, you would think at least one of these guys has the same frustration! Thanks again for your explanation, Jeff
  3. Two thoughts, offered for what they are worth... 1. I sometimes feel sorry for a seller on this forum. Plenty of readers are quick to jump in and slam the guy's offering and / or price. Call me old fashioned on this one, but isn't that the business of the seller and a serious buyer? Just a suggestion, but perhaps keep your opinions to yourself and let the market determine the price that the car ultimately sells for. 2. There are still some wrench-turners out there, who don't care to compete in the high-end of this hobby. Why not encourage them? Speaking only for myself, I took a '38 Buick Special (I know, not terribly desirable) in similar condition into my garage some 30 years ago. I did everything myself, and sometimes surprised myself with the outcome. The car will never win a show (don't care), but is a reliable driver that looks pretty good. I have enjoyed every minute of it. I can assure you that I never spent anywhere near six figures, probably not even five figures! Let's not jump right to the ultimate restoration cost - it is not the only path to enjoying this hobby, and probably discourages more people than you may realize. Respectfully offered, Jeff
  4. What voltage does the tender provide? Also, consider just putting the tender on for shorter periods of time. I never use one and simply pull the negative terminal when the car is not in use. If the car remains un-used for longer than a month or two, I put my standard charger on it for a day, just to top off the charge. If your battery is in good condition, this should work fine. A tender is really for a more modern vehicle that has multiple computers - each with full-time quiescent current draw. Some new cars are in trouble as soon as 2 - 3 weeks (airport parking lot scenario). The only full time current draw in the '38 is the clock, when the solenoid rewinds it. Again, mine is usually left disconnected, or is disabled when I pull the negative terminal from the battery. Also, a great source for '38 Buick batteries is Interstate. They sell a battery in the same package size as original, but with something like 750 CCA. I was told that they still carry this battery due to agricultural use - apparently two are used in series in the engine compartment of many combines. Jeff
  5. I love trucks of this vintage, and the Chevrolets in particular. If I am not mistaken, these trucks would have had essentially the same engine as the passenger cars (217, then 235 - correct?). I would not be surprised to hear of a different carburetor, intake manifold, cam shaft... but essentially the same engine. Also, they would have had a 4-speed, with a very low 1st - supplemented with a 2-speed rear. Please correct me if I am wrong. Granted, the loads were less, and speed limits were lower. But, WOW, what a difference to today's trucks. Even the larger trucks of the time (Mack, White, Kenworth) were no powerhouses, and relied on gearing to get the job done. I would be very interested to hear about the driving experience with these trucks, if anyone has any insight. Jeff
  6. Pretty sure bumper mounts are not the same from '37 to '38. Jeff
  7. GREAT DISCUSSION! Thank you for the education. To share the extent of my ignorance, I had no idea they made Standard and Super Beetles at the same time. Also, although I knew (of course) about general engine displacement increases, headlight and tail light changes, etc. - I only knew about this stuff in general terms. What can I say, my only Volkswagen was a 1966 Type 3 Squareback. (it was my first car, well-used by the time I got it - but I loved it!) Can you elaborate a little further on the specific years for the Standard vs. Super Beetles, and their models / features? (U.S. only might simplify this) Thanks!
  8. May be a bad assumption on my initial ID of the '72. I thought that Super Beetles had MacPherson struts, initially with a more rounded hood, later with the curved windshield as well. That is about the extent of my knowledge! I would love to see a breakdown of models in this transition time-frame... U.S only would simplify it??? Looks like there is more to it than I ever knew. Jeff
  9. Timely coincidence on the Super Beetle picture. The new neighbors across the street had their parents visiting, and the Dad walked over to visit with my '38 Buick and introduce himself. In the course of our conversation he mentioned that he was a VW guy, and currently had a '72. He was into keeping it totally stock, but made one modification, and that was to lower the front end - only slightly. He mentioned that the MacPherson strut Beetles always sat a little high in the front - I now see what he meant by this picture. He also mentioned that the MacPherson strut cars are second class citizens in the world of VW enthusiasts, who prefer the torsion bar Beetles. Interesting stuff. As for me - I like them all!
  10. I would like to move this speedometer out of the basement, and prefer dealing with an AACA member. Jeff
  11. That would be: http://www.bills-speedometer.com/ in Bellbrook, OH.
  12. I agree with you Jake, this one is specifically for a '51. I would recommend Bill's Speedometer for your calibration needs. Jeff
  13. Not sure, but I will try to find out. Best to get a picture of yours to be sure.
  14. I have a nice '51 Ford Speedometer for sale. This came to me used, from a garage clean-out of a former Ford dealer. I did the following: cleaned correctly lubed new green and red mylar for the turn signal and bright indicators calibrated reset odometer See pictures for calibration compromise (about 62 mph indicated, vs. 60 actual, and 28 indicated vs. 30 actual - typical compromise!) $120 plus shipping Jeff
  15. Great feedback... maybe the production number will clear this up. Certainly possible that there was a mid-year change. Jeff
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