Ckerch

That's a great idea and did not think I would have enough sidewall room for a drill bit. Luckly it is already removed from car. Would you center the hole or bias it toward the bottom of the centerlink? Carl

One of the old washer/seal (whatever it is called) is still in decent shape and is 1/8 inch thick. When I looked on McMaster Carr the smallest sheet at that thickness was 6X6 for $104....ouch! There are some Peek washers out there that I might look at it if shipping isn't crazy. Like Tom suggested, I going to try find a felt type washer or something close to that as another option. From what I can find, this part is only used on GEN 1 because I think they changed the center link ball joints ends. I believe in 1966, GM went with a rubber boot and zerk fitting like that used on the tie rods. That might be way I can't locate the replacement part Carl

I went back and reread my reply and did not mean to come across in a condescending way and thanks for the feedback. My current center link and Idler Arm is currently in good condition and doesn't need a rebuild yet. Ed, what confuses me is the pitman pictorial in the manual. It appears to have one, but manuals can be deceiving. So, if I understand it, it would be direct contact Pitman arm to center/drag link and Idler arm to center/drag link without anything between. This would create a metal-to-metal contact at the contact points. Are there anything applied to those contact points? Just trying to understand I reinstall this correctly. Thanks, Carl

I am surprised no one has done any steering repairs that includes the center/drag link. Is there a way to delete this post?

Putting my suspension and steering back together on my 64 and running into a roadblock. On the center link ends that connect to the pitman and Idler arm had some flat washer neoprene type material parts that I assume are used as seals. I have search everywhere and cannot seem to find replacements. I went to a local screw/bolt store and got rubber washers, but I don't think it will provide much of a seal due to the stiffness. What have others used? Carl

Finally, back to working on my Riviera and disc brake conversion is the next thing up. I went out to the Scarebird' website to look if they added anything new. When I searched Buick listings, to my surprise, no Riviera brackets are listed. After searching the web (google) I found out that Scarebird was sold to John Pasemann who owns USCT Motorsports on July 23 2023. My old login did not work either so maybe they still developing the website. Just found it interesting that they listed other Buick brackets but left out the Riviera's

Working on my 64's brakes and parking brakes. When comparing the parking brake bracket on the car versus what is in the service manual, it appears that I am missing a spring. However, the bracket does not have a hole for a spring to attach. Was there a change that was made in 64 that eliminated the spring? If so, should there be a spring in a different location? I search the forum and could not come up with an answer. Thanks Carl

Tom PM sent

Does it matter if all the other bushings are rubber?

Replacing all my front suspension parts on my 64 and got to the Brake Reaction Rod when I ran into trouble. I ordered the bushings from Old Buick Parts and they don't look very different to the originals. In the attached picture, new parts are on the left. Also from their website, the installation instructions show the Brake Reaction Rod bushings frame attachment bracket is flared. Mine does not have the flare and is flat. Are there two types of bushings for Gen 1 ?

Interested in #13

I am more of your option 3 person. Nothing crazy. In the middle of a front disc brake conversion and decided to go through the front suspension while I have it on the lift. When talking to Coil Spring Specialties, they were guessing I might have roughly 1/2" sag over the 56 years. So I was looking at a 1" drop similar to fxrspjc's car on page 10 of this post but think he might be running 18's. Might be a flip of the coin because I really like yours. QA-1's sounds intriguing but have not seen any post of people doing it on a Riv. Thanks again for the feedback Carl

Art Love the stance and the wheels. Nice touch. Did you need wheel spacers to use that wide of a rim? Is your car stock height or lowered?

On my 64, I am trying to remove the top bolt that goes through the brake anchor pin. I have sprayed it with penetrating oil and using an impact wrench but neither side will move. I am wondering if it is just a stubborn bolt or possibly a reverse thread. Could not find anything in the service manual discussing the removal of this bolt. Does anyone know if it is a normal thread or a reverse thread? Carl UPDATE: Answered my own question. It is standard thread.

Could not find that part number (25-3142259-7) on there website so it must be an internal number. They did not get back to me yet (probably due to the holiday) but hopefully tomorrow. It will be a lot easier with a part number. Thanks again for the feedback Carl

Thanks, I have a call into them Carl

When fixing my radiator, I ran into the same side seal that need to be replaced. Did anyone start selling these? Carl

Zimm63 Those spots you you use are the ones I am shooting for. That aligns more to chevy X frame. It would be a tight fit to get a pad in rearward of the lower control arm bracket before it slopes up. I thought about getting under the LCA bracket/frame but worried I would bend the bracket because it sits slightly lower than the frame. I am with you about having all the weight above my head but sure beats being on a crawler. Thanks for everyone's feedback Carl

Good job on the extenders Do you remember the metal wall thickness or did you use solid bars ? Did you create new pads or use your lift pads? I take it when you say they are locked in, you used round sleeves welded into the extender and that is inserted into the lift arm hole on the end. Is that correct? Did you position the pads per the lift points below or on top of the lower control bracket? The reason I ask is the frame in the rear location starts angling up shortly after the bracket. I have seen ones that have a notch with gussets for the drive shaft but that seems that it would be near impossible to get on the lift. Your design looks more practical . I would imagine after some practice, it gets easier the more you use it. I know this is a lot of questions but would like to learn from your experience. Thank You Carl

Tom Both front and rear arms are fully extended. With is being an asymmetrical lift, the front arms are shorter so I positioned the car so I could get the pad in the correct front lift point and that left the rear in the point in the picture. The other concern was, by positioning the the car so the front is on the correct lift point, it cause the car to also be more rearward in the relation to the lift columns. According to the lift instructions, Challenger likes the columns to a aligned to the front of the drivers seat and I know every car balance point is different but that is probably a good rule of thumb. Right now it is positioned close to the middle of the floor board. Not off much (maybe 6-8"). I am new to having a lift ( actually this is only the second vehicle I have had on a lift) so I don't have much experience with this and if this is a problem. It seems to be level at this position.

Actually that is a lot of help. For the price of safety, this would be a good option then I am not guessing if I used the right size tubing. Thanks Carl

I might have to go that way because it does seem bouncy. With the car up about 18", I rocked it pretty hard and did not move at the pads but concerned when raising/lowering the car. I would want to make sure the extender is not the weak link and not having a Mechanical Engineering background, do you remember what size tubing and wall thickness you used? I assumed you made one for the front and one for the rear. Do you remember any bowing in the extender? Thanks for the feedback

Tom Took these this morning. It is kind on similar to the Chevy X frame lift points. I would assume this would shift my balance point using the Chevy method. My only other option is to make up a frame extender similar to below. Not sure if this would be any better.

Tom It is definitely rearward of the X and adjacent to the bracket. I can get a picture tomorrow

Just in front of the lower control arm bracket(closer to the X part of the frame)