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gward1211

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Everything posted by gward1211

  1. I'm a bit puzzled by the comments on dwell angle. A modern coil and single points can run a V8 up to 6,000+ rpm and still fire well. In a 30's engine (perhaps with a modern coil) with maximum rpm around 3,000, surely there is ample coil charging time at a much reduced dwell angle, ie, a wider points gap. Why is dwell important (within reason) in an old, slow-revving engine? Kind regards Geoff Ward
  2. John, I replaced the timing cover felt seal with a modern lip seal on my 1928 Master Buick. I machined off the spiral oil groove (just enough to remove the groove) to get to a nice polished surface and purchased an oil seal to suit. Works well and no leaks. Kind regards Geoff Ward
  3. Is anyone able to tell me in respect of standard pistons in a 1928 274cu in Master: 1. the compression height (centre of gudgeon pin to top of piston); 2. the height from the top of the top ring to the top of the piston; and 3. the overall height of the piston. I am restoring an engine which does not have standard pistons and I need to know what to replace them with. Kind regards Geoff Ward
  4. Has anyone seen a timing gear as bad as this? It still ran - until it stopped. The damage happened over 1,000 miles and was caused by a very rust-pitted crankshaft gear, which I didn't notice when I installed the new timing gear. I have previously spoken to a man who manufactures fiber timing gears but I can't remember who it was. Would anyone know who it might have been. He said he makes fiber timing gears for Bob's Automobilia. Kind regards Geoff Ward
  5. The water pump spins freely. It has modern seals (back to back) not a gland nut. The puzzle at the moment is - if the corroded teeth on the crank gear cause the failure, I would expect there to be 2 spots of damage on the cam gear. 2/3 of the circumference of the cam gear is undamaged. Any further suggestions welcome. Kind regards Geoff Ward
  6. If anyone is interested in a bit more about this car, there is an article in the Pre-War Buicks e-magazine on my Google Drive at the following link: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1s26GKPBS9gSXkp918CcpwiUK32geq5-g/view?usp=share_link Thank you to everyone for their comments and help. Kind regards Geoff
  7. I think I have found the culprit - corrosion on the driving surface of the crankshaft gear - see photo. I have been unable to find out the history of this car. The engine was newly rebuilt but not run before I acquired it. It has obviously been out in the weather for a long time, given the amount of chassis rust pitting. It now seems that there must have been water in the engine or else the crankshaft was out of the engine and in water. It annoys me that I didn't spot this when I installed the new timing gear a year ago. The old timing gear was worn out but had not been otherwise damaged. I hope the crankshaft nut and gear can be removed with out too much drama. Kind regards Geoff Ward
  8. Hi all What I couldn't work out was - the timing gear seemed to fail over time - not a sudden stripping of a couple of teeth. The gear below looks like it's been pummelled to death. I also found some lumpy fiber bits in the front and middle sections of the oil pan which could not have happened just in the last few seconds of operation.
  9. Thanks Larry D and Larry S for the advice. Unfortunately, Tom at Then & Now Auto advised that he is out of stock of timing gears for 1928 Buick Master engines. He hopes to have some more made soon. I have a 2nd hand gear which I am going to run with for the time being. The old timing gear (which was new-old stock - unused but could have been up to 90 years old) was installed only a 1,000 miles ago and it failed without an obvious cause. I am told that bakelite-impregnated canvas can dry out and become weaker (or brittle). See photo. I was looking at the option of having one made, but it will be too expensive. I hope Tom comes through soon. I will buy one as a spare. Larry D, thanks for the images of the washer needed for the front of the gear. I assume that that was needed to prevent the fan pulley pulling on too far. Could you please tell me about the thinner washer. Is that for the rear of the gear to go between the fiber face of the gear and the camshaft retaining plate? I notice on mine that the face of the retaining plate shows some wear, indicating that the camshaft tends to be pulled inwards. On your old timing gear arrangement, was there a washer or spacer between the timing gear steel hub and the camshaft retaining plate? Kind regards Geoff Ward Sydney
  10. Thanks, all, for your comments. It seems that carbon fiber is not the way to go. In reply to some points: I don't have an aerospace budget. I can't source a new one. Bob's Automobilia advises that they have had 1928 Buick timing gears on order for 2 years and are not hopefull of ever getting some. 1928 Buick master timing gears 2nd hand are rare in Australia. I have been told that the noise from an aluminum timing gear is unacceptable. I'm not sure about brass. Brass is a sonorous metal. Has anyone had experience with a custom-made brass gear? Kind regards Geoff Ward
  11. Has anyone had any experience in having a timing gear CNC machined out of carbon fiber to replace bakelite gear? From what I have heard, aluminum is too noisy. This is for a 1928 Buick Master.
  12. Hi all, I have been offered a 6 cyl, standard Buick block. Its casting number is 214649. My 1928 Buick standard tourer has a casting number (just below the water inlet) of 198994. Is anyone able to tell me whether number 214649 related to a 1928 standard engine. Kind regards Geoff Ward Sydney
  13. Let's kill this topic. Thanks to all for your advice. I will not lighten the flywheel. Kind regards Geoff
  14. Perhaps I didn't explain it well. Double shuffling going up a hill is fine and I can generally do it without a crash. However, already travelling slow in top gear, by the time I double shuffle into 2nd, the forward motion has almost stopped and is too slow for second (a pretty steep hill). This is not a flywheel problem. The other situation I encounter is when going up a not so steep hill at higher revs in a low gear, when the time comes and you think you can change up, in waiting for the engine to slow down to get into a higher gear, a lot of the speed has washed off and becomes too slow for the higher gear. This is the flywheel problem I had in mind when I asked about lightening the flywheel. Kind regards Geoff
  15. OK I hear you. Don't touch the flywheel. To be able to slow to idle in top gear is still an advantage in traffic. Changing down on steeper hills is the problem with a heavy flywheel. Kind regards Geoff Ward What I mean is, if I start a climb up a hill and eventually have to change down, by the time the engine revs slow down enough to get it into 2nd gear, it has almost stopped forward movement and is ready for first gear. By that time it becomes a stationary hill start. Not good if you are in fast-moving traffic. Kind regards Geoff
  16. Hi all IIn a previous posting, I was encouraged to discard the new, non-Buick cast iron pistons in my 28 Master and replace them with aluminium ones. What will be crucial in this decision is whether the cast iron pistons are the correct height. Is anyone able to tell me what the distance should be between the deck and the piston at tdc? Alternatively, what is the measurement from the top (or centre) of the gudgeon pin to the top of the piston. Kind regards Geoff Ward
  17. OK I hear you. Don't touch the flywheel. To be able to slow to idle in top gear is still an advantage in traffic. Changing down up on steeper hills is the problem with a heavy flywheel. Kind regards Geoff Ward
  18. Hello again The flywheel of a 1928 Master weighs 107lbs, whereas a Standard 6 flywheel weighs only 61lbs. This seems to me to be a lot of unnecessary weight. Has anyone had any experience with a lightened flywheel on a Master? If so, how much weight was removed and what was the result? Kind regards Geoff Ward
  19. Thanks Terry and OldTech. Yes, I don't know where new cast iron pistons came from. Maybe they were readily available 25 years ago. It would be nice to get some aluminium pistons. Would the crankshaft and Al pistons have to be re-balanced?
  20. Hugh, many thanks for the comments. I have now attached some photos of the damaged main bearing. What do you think? The fine scratches are from a small amount of rubbing I did with some 280 wet and dry paper. The deeper scratches are the damage from lack of clearance. Thanks for the suggestion for the aircraft bolts. Looks like a good idea. I don't know what the last photo in your group is. Could you explain it please.
  21. Hello from lockdown in Australia. I wonder if someone could kindly give me some advice about 1928 Buick Master pistons. I purchased a 1928 Model 58 a little while ago. Its history is unknown but it seems to have been restored about 25 years ago. Little was known about the engine except that I could see hone marks in the bores through spark plug holes and it had some prodigious oils leaks. I have removed the engine with a view to replacing the rear main seal. Having got that far I decided to completely disassemble it to see what was inside. The engine has new cast iron pistons 60 thou oversize. There is inadequate clearance in the bearings and one center main bearing in the cap has been slightly damaged in the 100 odd miles that I have driven it. I intend to shim the bearings for a little more clearance. The pistons are a mystery to me. They have no offset and they have a second oil ring below the gudgeon pin - see photos. My questions are: 1. Does the lack of offset matter? 2. Is the lower oil ring a good thing? It seems to me that it would cause extra drag and might cause the swept area above the lower oil ring to be inadequately lubricated. A couple of the upper oil rings were gummed up with an enamel-type substance which might mean inadequate flushing with oil. However, the car has been sitting around for the past 20 years and had a lot of grease-like sludge in the sump, I guess from a lot of cold running trying to get it to run properly. The carburetor was a mess. 3. Would it be acceptable to remove all the lower oil rings and leave them out? 4. Would a small amount of scoring on one side in a center main bearing cap (about 20% of the surface area in the cap is deeply scored) be cause for concern once proper clearances are established? The crankshaft is not scored. 5. To which side of the engine should the heads of the gudgeon pin retaining bolts point? I would greatly appreciate any opinions on these matters. Kind regards Geoff Ward
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