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bryankazmer

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Posts posted by bryankazmer

  1. It's going to depend on the type of degradation.  If the plasticizing oil volatilized but the rubber molecule itself has not degraded, it can be partially at least reflexibilized.  If the rubber itself has broken down from oxidation, the degraded rubber won't hold oil beyond being a gummy mess. After this long, the odds are not good.

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  2.  John, those old "paliochrome" type fine metallics are aluminum flake, not pearl (which use mica).  The main supplier of the flake itself is Silberline.  They supply the paint companies. While I'm not sure how cooperative they would be to a small request, a small sample would be enough to mix enough paint to do a car.  Knowing the desired flake size would help, I'm guessing that around 1 - 2 microns would be a good starting point. Xirillic additive at first look has the right fine appearance at some angles but a completely wrong travel - not a good option.  As you say these fine metallics are not very popular in auto paint anymore, but Silberline also sells into other areas like packaging and plastics.

  3. I've had a 56 DeSoto with power steering and a 57 Olds without.  I preferred the feel of the manual steering, especially because Mopars of this era are very overboosted.  No road feel at all.  With manual steering you need to be rolling to park, but how many tight parallel parking spots do you really use with such a car these days?

    There was an all-vinyl interior on the Firedome at least, but it didn't look like this car's.

  4. those chip sheets are an interesting place to start to choose but are not suitable as standards to match.  Not when new and certainly not after all these years.

     

    Walt's chip making, viewing and lighting comments are just as relevant to newer paint systems. 

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  5. The spectrophotometer match has some limitations.  It works by mapping the frequencies and intensities of the reflected light.  Then it "looks" in  its pigment library to build a set of "overlays" to match the scanned item.  The paint company of course loads its own base and pigment library.  So if you do not get a good match, it might be worthwhile to try using a different paint company's set.  Metallics or pearlescents scatter light and confuse the machine.  These are still typically done by eye. The spectrophotometer typically has one incident (and therefore reflected) light angle.  Different matches "travel" or "flop" differently.  So by all means use the tool, but have a test piece to check under different angles and lighting.

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  6.  I agree with Walt that first looking for a serendipitous later match is a good idea.  Metallics were in use in 1940 if the silver is one.  The aluminum flake size was generally quite fine, so be careful of that in later colors.  It's a very attractive color combo for the car.

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  7. probably not the same type of material.  i believe tops of your car's era were typically vinyl, and boat tops are more commonly canvas.  A good detergent and soft brush to start with.  It is possible that your top has faded from the run and black will go towards gray (with some yellow undertone)

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  8. If we are no longer discussing the cruiser Reatta, the S2000 and MR2 are similar in really needing to rev to perform, and are perhaps the more sporting choices.  I drove a 90 Miata as a daily driver year round - it is a better choice for that.  Outstanding gearbox and clutch actions.  The other option in this era and price would be the Alfa Spider.  Although the design was old by then, the larger displacement gives a better low rpm feel.  Steering and gearbox noticeably older designs than Miata.  More finicky but I drove one of those as a daily driver too.

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