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Canadian PB Kid

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Posts posted by Canadian PB Kid

  1. Well... that wasn't too bad, I mounted one of the Mustang Bushings on a bolt with washers on each side that were just oversize of the size that I wanted to grind it down to. Then I mounted it in my drill and ground it down on the grinder to proper size, Took about 15 minutes per bushing. It did make a bit of a mess but I mounted my shop vac by the grinder and it took most of the debris. I did get a bit overzealous on one of the later ones but a couple that came off the car were good enough to reuse.

     

    Thanks for the advice!

     

    Dave

     

    STAY SAFE! 

    shock link bushing B4.jpg

    shock link bushing tool.jpg

    shock link bushings finnished.jpg

    • Like 1
  2. Hello, I'm trying to locate the shock link bushings for my PB. I tried Andy, Steele Rubber and a few other sources with no luck. In checking the United Motors section of the 1934 parts book I read that the same bushing (#3- PN# 41133) was used between 29 and 32, so I suspect that others have had to replace these bushings and I'm wondering what others have used.  

     

     I've also tried the aftermarket route which I'm still working on, by trying to reduce the OD of those bushings to 3/4" from 1-1/16", any suggestions on reducing the OD of a rubber bushing?

     

    Thanking in advance,

     

    Dave

     

    STAY SAFE! 

    Shocks fast moving parts.jpg

    Shock and links.jpg

  3. Well, the guy at Mustang place finally got a link kit and two of the dimensions of the bushings are correct for my application, the pin fits quite tightly and the bushing will fit between the link ends if I was to remove about 1/8"  but the outside diameter is much too large for my eyelets, so, two thoughts come to my mind, is there a way to turn a the rubber bushing down to 3/4" and the other is did the Mustang guy sell me the correct kit, I didn't get a box. Has anyone gone this route for these bushings?

    Dave

     

    STAY SAFE!

    shock link bushing.jpg

  4. 7 hours ago, ply33 said:

    I used some sway bar link rubber ends for my 1933, see: https://www.ply33.com/Parts/groupUMS#43467

     

    The original links were, I think, forged to create the little seat for the washer that holds the rubber bushing. I ended up getting some 3/8 steel rod and threading the ends much longer than the original. Then I simply threaded a nut down to the where the seat needed to be. When you tighten them remember they need to be able to pivot where they attach to the shock arm and to the axle (where my original ones wore through). If they can’t pivot then I guess the rods could bend but I’ve never had that problem.

    For the past few days I've been trying to track down these bushings for my PB, First I tried the aftermarket, NAPA was twice as much as the Moog (which is now superseded to K700528) and both had blue bushings, I googled the Ford part # C0DZ 5A486 BR and saw a few kits with black bushings on ebay. I got in touch with a local Mustang shop confirmed with him that their bushings were black and then ordered a set from him, they should be here  next week.... bushing size should be 3/4" round with a 3/8" hole. The application is 65-67 Mustang  stabilizer link kit ...I'll post on what arrives next week.

     

    STAY SAFE!

     

  5. Scott, I'm glad you posted this topic as I've been pondering the same concerns with my PB roadster. Your inside quarters look pretty much like mine.
    The 1933 parts book list a "deck lid weather-strip" for the PB (PN# 330621) along with a retainer (PN# 332529). 
    For convertible couple there is a "deck lid weather-strip" listed for the PC & PD (PN# 457024). 
    There are no illustrations on what they look like or where they mount.

    I've looked at a couple of Chrysler products which have rumble seat at shows and so far non have had a weather-strip and when I inquired about one 
    they all referred to the drip rails, I didn't bother asking about where the water drained to.

    It appears that the drip rails would divert any water that got pass the weather-strip into the rear of the body and onto what looks like 
    a catch basin, mine has three holes (marked with pencils) for the water drain out but I can't believe that Walter Chrysler would have designed it this way.  

    Hope this helps,

    Dave

    STAY SAFE!

    rumble rear marked.jpg

  6. 12 hours ago, 8E45E said:

    Why would you want to put them back on the car, considering they are for a Pontiac, not a Plymouth, and not even 'period', being over 20 years newer?

     

    Craig

    Thanks for asking, I've been sitting (and still wobbling) on the fence regarding this for quite some time, so I'll try and explain my situation. 
    First I'll admit I'm not an expert in restoration and have no experience in doing body work so I'm more on the preservation route.
    So far I've been able to remove most of the 2nd (Yellow), 3rd (Dark Red) and a forth coat (Brighter Red) which was house paint leaving me 
    with the factory Uhlan gray enamel. 
    If there is a method (and I'm sure there is) where I'd  be able to fill the couple dozen (there were some other moldings installed) 
    1/4" holes and be able to refinish just the 1/4" spot, then I definitely would go that route. Someone suggested epoxy but had no 
    proven experience. Any suggestions?
    My first step was to ID the ornament and see if any could be located to cover up the scars of past.

     

     

    Thanking in advance,

     

    Dave

     

    STAY SAFE!

    L quarter cleaned.jpg

  7. On 8/11/2021 at 7:39 AM, 8E45E said:

    1956 Pontiac side trim near the taillight.  3 per side.

     

    Craig

    WOW! A big atta boy to you Craig. They certainly do look like the ornament. Would you or anyone else know if it is the same rear fender ornament used on both models with or without the mid quarter chrome trim??

     

    Thanks again,

     

    Dave

     

    STAY SAFE!

  8. Hello All, Greetings from Canada!....I would like to know if anyone can help identify and perhaps know of a source for these trim pieces that had been installed on my 1932 Plymouth's 1/4 panels sometime in the early 1950's, the car was found in 1957 with 3 of the six still installed. It appears that the red insert is a vinyl tape.... I'd like to replace at least the missing three and if possible, all six.... 

     

    Thanking in advance,

     

    Dave

     

    STAY SAFE!

     

    Moulding on quarters.jpg

    Moulding on quarters insert.jpg

  9. On 7/27/2021 at 7:03 AM, Narve N said:

    Everything is for my 1929 Chrysler Series 65 and it is now back on the car. No extras.

    Ok Thanks!... while reading the Plymouth parts book I see that the the earlier Plymouth models have different parts listed, so most likely similar to yours. How late did Chrysler have the folding windshield?.. from what I understand 1932 was the last for Plymouth.

     

    I picked up my frame from my metal guy, he noticed that the left bolt bracket was cast brass and the right one was cast iron....Is that normal?... he was also amused at the profile of the frame... it appears to be drawn from one piece and then formed to the shape of the cowl...

     

    I'm still in need of a pair of locking blocks and the lock/finished washer... Has anyone had to have these blocks made? I was considering trying nylon... any thoughts on this?...... I was able to find a screw that will work.

     

    Thanking in advance,

     

    Dave

     

    STAY SAFE!

     

     

    Windshield frame repaired.jpg

    Windshield formation.jpg

    Windshield frame end parts .jpg

    Windshield parts required 2.jpg

  10. 2 hours ago, Narve N said:

    Here is an exploded view of my parts when I took my mechanism apart recently. I discovered to my horror that the windshield frame and mechanism is very exposed to rust and on reassembly I covered as much as possible in "cavity-antirust fluid".

     

     

     

    20210716_201935.jpg.7a0968126568c837bf2bd0d63d02e791.jpg

    Thank you for posting a picture of your hardware, Are these extras? I'm interested in the two pivot blocks if they are available. The screw and chrome washers appear different from the ones I removed, what model are these parts from? 

     

    Thanking in advance,

     

    Dave

     

    STAY SAFE!

  11. Yes, a picture is worth a thousand words and those pictures certainly spoke volumes, they clearly gave me the proper direction. Thanks Sasha39.

     

    I heeded the earlier "Good luck" and soaked the whole windshield in citric acid for a few days before trying to remove the bolts. The bolts came out without too much work and no incident. As recommended, a few stern alternative taps with a block of hardwood and the top bar slid out and I was able to remove the glass. I then re-soaked the frame in the acid for a few more days. It has from what I've read the usual issues around the bottom corners but over all it still is solid considering it's 89 years old,  I've taken the frame to my metal guy and he's going to repair the lower corners.

     

    I'm not sure if Chrysler had the same type of seals but would anyone have or know the profile of the proper rubber seal that slides into the outside edge of the frame? I've seen a few at local shows on different makes but none appear to fit proper.

     

    I require a few items which are pictured here, I'm sure the screw isn't a big issue but I'd like to find the proper washer, oh, and the pivot blocks I require two. 

     

    Thanking in advance!

     

    Dave

     

    STAY SAFE!

    Windshield frame coming apart.jpg

    Windshield L top disassembled.jpg

    Windshield parts required.jpg

    • Like 2
  12. I looked at the parts list for 28-33 and in the body parts list for the Coupe (Group 23) under the door section (group 23-D) they list a "Door bottom weather-strip" 2 required for the PB.... part # 363631.. it also list two "door header weather strips (upper rear corners L&R) for the PB... PN# 364202 for the left and 364201 for the right side.....hope this helps.....sorry no pictures 

     

    Dave

     

    STAY SAFE! 

  13. On 7/9/2021 at 5:27 AM, Sasha39 said:

    Hi there,

    I think you'll find that the item that you refer to as the nut is actually a bolt head that is screwed into a 90 degree steel bracket that is inside of the frame at the top, this is how the pivot mounting is held in place, once you unscrew that bolt (if there's another one on the other side you'll have to undo that one too) and when both bolts are out the pivot mounts can come off and you can gently tap the top frame away the the rest of the frame , just make sure to do both sides evenly you don't want to twist or bend the frame     

    Thank You Sasha39 for taking the time to respond, ponder and respond again... Yes, I see it as a bolt, Is it hollow all the way through? if so, are they prone to twist off? 

     

    Just want to ensure that while I'm tinkering I'm pulling in the right direction, left hand threads? Would it be beneficial to bend the washer where the indent is, to try and lessen the friction between the bolt and the pivot mount?  I've tried loosening the bolts using a six point socket on a 9" 3/8 ratchet but no movement yet.

       

    One more question for now, Is the bracket inside the frame attached to the frame or is it just wedged in between the frames.

     

    Thanking in advance,

     

    Dave

     

    STAY SAFE!

  14. Hey All, Has anyone had any experience in removing and replacing the glass in the early folding windshield frames? I've looked at a few pictures of earlier Chrysler's with folding windshields and it appears they mostly use the same engineering as on the Plymouths. I'm tinkering with a PB, and what I would like to know is how to open up the frame so I can replace the rubber weather-strips and the glass with safety glass. 

     

    It appears that the nut with the washer attached has an indent that locks it in place? (circled with red in the second picture) Would I pry up the washer to allow the indent to clear thus allowing removal of the nut/washer assembly???.. Also, what does that nut/washer assembly screw onto? Is there a stud or something inside the frame?

     

    I am also looking for a few bits for the pivot mounting, I require two of the pivot blocks and the outer chrome washer and screw... I have enough of these items to mount one side only. I have pictures of needed items if required.

     

    Any help would greatly be appreciated!

     

    Cheers!

     

    Dave

     

    STAY SAFE!

    Windshield L pivot with screw.jpg

    Windshield R pivot with no screw marked.jpg

  15. On 2/23/2021 at 11:12 AM, Richard1234 said:

     

    I've got the motor in a crate buried under a mountain of junk, lol.  Does the number on the dash tell us anything?  GC346P I believe it says. 

     

    Also, the rad emblem says "Plymouth Made in Canada" under the white sailing boat.  I had no idea they also made them in Canada.  I suppose Plymouth sent up the panels and let us Canadians fell some trees and build the rest of the car, lol.  Perhaps the worlds first "kit car"!!  You supply the wood!

    According to the Plymouth parts book, serial # GC 346 P would've been used near the end of the "U" model run....I'd be interested in the rad emblem if you're parting it out.

  16. On 5/27/2020 at 4:28 PM, dpcdfan said:

    Allan... Good eye!! Yes, the 31 roadster is rock solid. It was in the process of being restored when my friend bought it and put it away in the shed.

    Agreed, the car looks rock solid, in the same picture of parts with the tail light bracket there are three windshield support brackets, the lower one in the picture appears to have the 

    windshield pivot clamping blocks in it, I have two of them but four are required per car....would they be something you'd be willing to ship to Canada?

     

    Thanking in advance,

    Dave

  17. When I took the pistons out of the PB engine I noticed that three of the four connecting rods had numbers stamped in them (two of # 3 and a #4) and the other had 3 punch marks in the area of where the numbers are on the other rods, which is where the cap bolt goes through. One of the number 3's had a matching cap #3 and the other three caps were blank. If it matters the pistons that came out are 30 over.

     

    My question is, Are these numbers to indicate which cylinder the rod was intended to installed in (for balance?) or was this for assembly at the plant to match rods with caps when building the Babbitt? The only one that was in the coordinated cylinder was #4. I checked the parts book and it list one number for a connecting rod for all four cylinders and it was on an exchange program.

     

    Any advice or input would help,

     

    Thanking in advance,

     

    Dave

     

     

  18. Thanks for replying,

     

    I'm assuming that it was driving OK before it was parked 60+ years ago, the flywheel was well polished with a nice groove from a previous misadventure.

     

    I haven't had the engine running but the clutch did disengage fine before I removed it.

     

    Cheers! 

    Dave

     

    NEEDED....PB- Intake-Exhaust Manifold Set....

    Flywheel original.jpg

  19. When I removed the clutch from the 32 I was surprised to that the disc contained none of what I believe are called "anti chatter springs". The picture in the parts

    book shows it should have had the springs.

     

    Before I go ahead and have this disc rebuilt I'd like to know if it was it a cheap aftermarket disc or was it used for any particular reason?

     

    Any thoughts?

     

    Dave

     

    NEEDED....PB- Intake-Exhaust Manifold Set....

    clutch disc flywheel side.jpg

  20. On ‎2‎/‎28‎/‎2019 at 8:09 PM, Spinneyhill said:

    What would one look like if we saw one lying around at a swap meet, say?

    Top one is for a PA I believe, The two outside intake ports have smaller size holes and the carb mounting plate is also smaller than the PB intake.

     

     The exhaust looks the same between these two other than the last number on the casting, anyone have an idea on what the last number in the casting represents?  Edit. These two Exhaust manifolds have different size pipe flange,

     

    The PA is available and I'd like to get a replacement for my PB, Is welding recommended?

     

    Manifolds outside supported.jpg

  21. 6 hours ago, StillOutThere said:

     

    Wally sounds familiar.

     

     

    While at the POC National in Michigan this past summer I met a couple from here in Southern Ontario who had a PB sedan convertible. In conversation the owner mentioned that it had come from the south but the buyer became ill and was unable to proceed with it. The fellow mentioned that he bought it from the widow and had it professionally restored. It's pictured in the POC Bulletin #352, top of page 29.

     

    We met up with the couple again at an event for the Antique & Classic Car Club of Canada a month or so later and was given my first ride in a PB.

     

    Hope this helps,

    • Like 1
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