babychadwick

The one on the left is 5200, don't use the fast cure and make sure you get black not white.

Not sure how it would work but I use 5200 on most bits I want to seal, it comes in black and white. I figure it seals fine underwater, remains flexible so its probably overkill on car glass. At some point Im going to have to redo those rear windows in mine once I get gaskets. Be warned though if you open it and look at it you will manage to get it on you somewhere and it can make a big mess.

Mine has been repainted brown but it looks like an original much lighter brown underneath. Both are gloss and I drive the car a lot (maybe 600-1000 a month) and glare has never been a problem. '38 sedan

3rd times the charm?

I opted to just pick up the alternator at my local store and when I ordered they wouldn't say whether or not it would fit the v12 so I was taking a gamble when I purchased it. I also didn't think a pulley would be difficult, figuring I probably had one around as well. Perhaps you would like to share a link with the complete setup?

im trying to come up with a way for someone to be able to do the work simple and in their home garage. Slicing a pulley in half and adding washers is fairly easy so I suggested it. I made the mistake of trying to widen mine on my little lathe and there just isn't enough metal there so soon I will be undertaking my own suggestion. As far as the radio goes, a friend had it working and its mounted in the car but I'm missing some of the "bits" to physically mount the control head into the dash and speaker. As much as it may sound like a crime I would like to run a multiple carb intake, finned aluminum heads and AC plumbed into the original ducts. And then tour the car to various events for the speedster being towed behind on a lightweight open aluminum trailer.

The radio is working on 6v negative ground. The reducer I am using is a volt a drop. The bracket from speedway works beautiful for the one wire alternator. The only complication is finding a wide enough pulley. After putting it together I realized I should have used 2 pulleys and cut them in half and just put a washer inbetween the halves making a wider pulley.

For those who might express an interest in operating their car 12v I can offer some advice. The headlights and charging circuits naturally need to be changed. This can be accomplished by operating and upgrading to LED bulbs. https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-P30D-40W-CREE-LED-White-Headlight-High-Low-Beam-Light-Bulb-6V-24V-Motorcycle/223128660105?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 drop right in but require negative ground. Gauges will work on negative ground with a voltage reducer, even the radio will work so it is simply a bolt in upgrade. A single wire alternator can be purchased and placed on a bracket by speedway motors. Once again bolt on. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Plain-1938-1945-Flathead-Alternator-Bracket,4130.html I have not torn apart an original coil as mine was rebuilt by Mr. Richman and after a failure after less than a year I am not content to continue to spend hundreds on having it "rebuilt" so forgive me if I don't go into the mess of cleaning out an original coil. If someone would like to donate me 2 junk coils I will demonstrate the cleaning and setup starting with an old original delivering a rebuilt coil in 12v negative and keeping one for myself. Other than that I am starting to work with one that has already been cleaned. The first coils I will test are out of a jetski, these coils are small enough to completly fit inside the original housing and should be replaceable in the event of a failure. This process will take a while before it is concluded, part 3 will be the adaptation of a pertronix electronic ignition inside the factory distributor and when completed will give a visually original looking distributor.

To make the connection inside for the points I taped and threaded screws with a lock nut so I could screw it in to make contact then lock it into position. From this point it was a matter of picking ballast resistors, coils, mounting and wiring. All in all withing 48 hours a point of no coil to running car, I drove it tonight!

A couple nuts are locked together and then turned down and the screw head is rounded to accept a female plug fitting

Once drilled I tapped it out to a 12-24 thread, the cut on threads is light but enough. Using a 12-24 screws the end is tapered and cut to the proper length so it will connect with the brush from the bug cap.

Once the plate is cast the next step are the connections. The brushes I pulled from a 1980 super beetle distributor cap, the hole drilled was 3/16.

After sitting overnight the new plate ready to be cleaned and drilled.

The epoxy and fibers

Pressed in and filled with epoxy

As I source proper coils to be replaced inside the coil and it's apart I decided to make a replacement plate. While I don't intend on running the car with the plate it makes for a nice spare should something happen to the original. Supplies needed: An epoxy mixture (a table top epoxy able to be purchased at a hardware store may work for you) Milled/powdered fibers (May be your hardest item to source) Playdough (3-6 jars) Kitchen no stick spray Suitable sized bowl or other container Tape off the brush and points contacts so there is no inverted edges. Fill bowl with playdough Spray coil with non stick Press coil into playdough and remove Carefully fill screw holes and point brush voids Mix epoxy and fibers and pour in Bubbles will form and rise, it is possible to accelerate the rise of bubbles by lightly dropping the bowl as you would a cake. Bubbles can be popped by blowing gently on them.

Old violen case

I am south FL and will eventually be in TN, 3rd generation T speedster nut. Im currently doing a '27.

You are both correct, I have done some playing with wood and "other materials"

Wet the wood then dry it with hear, a stove burner works. This will raise the grains that are curried due to sanding. Use some fine steel wool to smooth it out, do it several times and the stain/varnish will adhere better.

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/epifanes--clear-high-gloss-varnish--P004_128_001_002?recordNum=1 A cheaper alternative https://www.westmarine.com/buy/z-spar--z-spar-1015-captain-s-varnish--P004_128_001_505?recordNum=2

Looking to put together a trailer/rig myself. I have a trailer I'm doing now but it will be more for long distance towing (say 1000 miles plus one way) and all enclosed so it can double as a garage. For closer trips I plan on putting a hitch on the '38 zephyr sedan and constructing a light weight basic trailer out of a discarded aluminum boat trailer. With this I will be able to tow the speedster I am building or my Mom's.

Check west marine if there is one near you and you will find different options. Typically it last about 1 year down here before it needs redoing. Of course that is down in the FL keys with sun doing its best to kill it nearly every day of the year. Looking at my little whaler the front board exposed to the sun is bad, I'll need to sand it down and recoat again but the rest that was under the shade looks outstanding. I did both at the same time.

Spar Varnish

Sounds similar to how I got my 38. I ended up going thru the distributor and rewiring the car including new plugs and wires. While at it I converted to 12v negative ground, many of the old wires may have worked when I first put juice thru them but upon removal I was very glad that I did remove them. As for oil, I changed it and ran some flushing solution then changed it again. The carb I took off tore apart soaked and put back on. It is true that I did more than you are looking to do but after everything was done I'm guessing I've logged at least 1000 miles (I did have an axle break) and am driving the car every day.