MoparMadnz
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Posts posted by MoparMadnz
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Sportsman was the trim package for either 2 or 4 door hardtops. Not available on sedans.
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Nice car at a nice price
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35 minutes ago, 95Cardinal said:
Depends on the car.
Seems like BAT buyers spend freely to acquire Alfas, Porsches and Ferraris.
And the DeSoto being discussed here seems to have done well for the seller!
You've got a point there. European sports cars are bringing top dollar on BAT, for sure. It's probably just the cars I'm interested in that don't always seem to do very well. The Desoto did well though. I guess it's a hit or miss for some cars.
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On 2/24/2020 at 12:12 PM, Matt Harwood said:
Bring-A-Nitpicker is so amusing. It's a $10,000 car at best and there are guys demanding that he remove the interior to show the floors and do a driving video and detailed photos and asking for detailed restoration receipts. Then there are the usual knotheads saying they'd have to upgrade the brakes to make it driveable. Oh, and when dealers post photos taken in a studio, they usually complain that they want photos taken in broad daylight so they can really see what's going on, yet on this car they say they're the most perfect photos they've ever seen despite A LOT of heavy Photoshop editing. Have they had the "documentation fee" whine-fest yet? That's always fun, too.
Just another reason why I'd never let any car I'm trying to sell anywhere near that site. Too many know-nothings lobbing virtual hand grenades into the discussion that poison the well for any potential buyer.
On the topic of that Desoto--if you're looking for something like that, bid $10,000 and get a car you can enjoy. Don't worry, for $10,000 it won't hurt you no matter what surprises it might have under the skin (I suspect very few). That is a lot of car for the money, even if you have to ship it across the country.
And always remember when you're buying a car: it's never a total loss. It's not like you're gambling $10,000. You're gambling $10,000 minus whatever you sell it for later. Buying a durable good is never an all-or-nothing proposition and it will always have some value. Everyone frets that they're going to lose their shirts. Nah. On a car like that at $10,000, if it's really dreadful (again, I doubt it is) it's still going to be worth $5000. That's your exposure. Why not jump in and swim?
I agree with Matt. BAT is full of tire kickers and just seems like a horrible place to sell a car. I've seen a number of "potential buyers" getting into pissing matches with sellers, making accusations and derogatory comments. Plus too many lowballers. It seems like most cars never fetch fair market value on there. I would never sell a car on there.
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Nice car, nice color, nice price. Somebody jump on this.
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On 1/21/2020 at 9:21 AM, Dynaflash8 said:
I've been looking at a 56 Buick Roadmaster with a Dynaflow transmission. It works okay now, but what if it has a problem? The only shop I know of in South Central Florida has stopped doing transmissions altogether. Does anyone know of a transmission shop in Central or South Central Florida that will do an old Buick Dynaflow (prior to 1961 the rear end has to be pulled back to remove the transmission)? It would be dangerous to buy a car that nobody will work on unless you can do the work yourself.
If you happen to find someone who works on Dynaflows in Florida, please let me know. Mine has a leak and I may be looking to overhaul it in the future. 1950 Buick in the Lakeland area.
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A 1957 Cadillac Eldorado Brougham
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This is why I do a little market research and set a firm price before I ever list a car for sale. I tell them right off the bat "X" amount is what I'm willing to take and that doesn't change even if you're hot girlfriend shows up and does "X" to me. I also do a good bit of "pre-screening" of the prospective buyer and ask them certain targeted questions before they even show up. I've had too many threatening 3 A.M. phone calls in the past to not take careful measures today. I also strongly encourage my friends/family/coworkers to not buy a project car unless they're willing to make it a lifetime commitment. This guy probably spent thousands on his 70 Charger just to make it run & stop, and it's still a project car. Save your money and buy a finished car or a well-maintained original. Projects are for guys that have the knowledge, skills, time, tools, and garage to finish it. Or for people that are willing to pay a reputable shop to finish the job. You will rarely ever recoup the restoration cost of a basket case project car unless it's some kind of highly desirable, rare collectible.
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Have you thought about going to a public car auction? Sometimes you can get lucky and get a really decent car there for about 1/2 of market value. Last Mecum auction I went to, I saw a number of clean 50's-80's sedans sell in the $3-7k range. I also saw a very presentable 1950 Buick Roadmaster 2 door hardtop (older restoration) go for $12,500. The buyer turned around and sold it on Ebay a couple months later for $20k. I think you have to place a small deposit when you register and pay a 10-20% buyer's premium once you win, but you could potentially drive off in your dream car for thousands less than you were expecting. Bring a mechanically inclined buddy along to help you look over the car(s) and hang out for a couple days. It's worth checking out.
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I would go the El Camino route if you plan on using the car as a daily driver. Here's a nice 77 with a rebuilt 350 and trans for $6500. Just the cost of doing those two things is the same price as the car. You can easily get most parts from a local auto store and learn basic maintenance while you drive it. Enjoy it for a couple years, then sell it for a nice Edsel sedan when you're ready.
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Honestly, you are probably just better off sticking with something like a 5 year old Mustang or Camaro for the time being, until you can get some money saved up. Once you do get some money saved up, don't just go out and get the first $2,000 project car you see. You will end up with nothing but headaches while your car sits outside and starts rusting out. Then you will lose interest in the hobby and give up out of frustration. I've seen this happen way too many times. Best thing to do is save up about 10 grand and get yourself a solid running driver. It also wouldn't hurt taking an intro to automotive class at a local community college or spending time around a buddy that works on cars to gain some basic knowledge. Just my 1.5 cents.
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Very nice car. Should sell quickly at that price.
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The seller just lowered the asking price by 12 grand. That's a really nice (and hard to find) car for the money. If only I had the room in my garage.....
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Thanks for the advice folks. I will look into that.
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Thanks for the advice folks. I will look into that.
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Hi, new owner of a 1950 Buick here. The battery keeps going dead lately and I just noticed the driver side backup light and driver side front turn signal light are stuck on, even with the ignition turned off. I tried playing around with the different switches, and pressing the high beam switch turned them off briefly - but the lights came back on the next time I started the car. Also, the driver side blinker isn't working, but the passenger side is. Anyone have a clue what the culprit might be? Thanks
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1939, I will re-post in that section. I think I do have a file of the wiring diagram on my computer. Ben, you're right. I meant to type "signal light" - thank you.
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Hi, new owner of a 1950 Buick here. The battery keeps going dead lately and I just noticed the driver side backup light and driver side front turn signal light are stuck on, even with the ignition turned off. I tried playing around with the different switches, and pressing the high beam switch turned them off briefly - but the lights came back on the next time I started the car. Also, the driver side blinker isn't working, but the passenger side is. Anyone have a clue what the culprit might be? Thanks
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First the driver told me this was a "normal scratch." I asked him if he noticed this damage at pickup, and he couldn't give me a straight answer. I then asked the driver to notate on the BOL that I mentioned damage and he agreed to do it. Then he had me sign the BOL on his phone (no paperwork) and told me that I would see the damage noted on my email copy of the BOL. I told him its not mentioned at all in the emailed copy, yet he kept insisting that he did it. He basically had me sign off on the BOL that said I received the car with no damage. He also called at the last minute wanting cash on delivery. I received no paper receipt of any kind, so all I could do at that point is give him a sheet of paper and have him write down his name, amount paid, and that I mentioned damage. He lied about a number of things as did the broker. I will call my insurance company during the week and try to make a claim. Thanks for the advice.
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This shipper was advertising in Hemmings until recently, but I'm not sure if they still are. It actually turned out to be a broker, and they subbed out the job
to another trucking company. The driver basically pulled a fast one on me and lied about mentioning the damage on the bill of lading when I requested him
to do so. I was pressed for time when finding a shipper, so I wasn't able to do enough due diligence. It was a lesson learned for me, because I have since
learned that this company has a long track record of engaging in very deceptive/shady business practices.
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My deductible is $500 so I may try to tackle this myself. I believe it is lacquer per the previous owner who owned it 40+ years.
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I have insurance on it now, but not at the time of delivery.
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Hello, the transport company damaged the paint on my 1950 Buick. Not sure exactly how it happened because the driver lied and the transport company is (so far) unwilling to accept responsibility. Some type of object made contact with the fender and took out a chunk of paint the size of a Tomato. What is the best way to go about repairing this? Would it be difficult to match and touch this up? I'm definitely not a pro when it comes to bodywork. Any advice would be greatly appreciated...I will try to attach a picture.
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I'm not sure about the exact model years of the cars, but the first picture is my late Grandpa (smoking a cigar) with his 1933 Ford. The second is also my Grandpa (smoking a pipe) with a fishing buddy and his 1946 Ford. Both pictures were taken in upstate NY. Again...I could be wrong about the make and model years...but I was told he was always a Ford man. He died in 1961. Third picture was taken on my birthday in Florida with my late Dad's 62 Vette in 1986.
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For Sale: 1959 DeSoto Fireflight Sportsman - Swivel Seats - Not Mine - 11/14 SOLD! -11/18 Flipper - 12/2 No Sale
in "Not Mine" Automobiles For Sale
Posted
Well that was fast. Looks like a flipper got a hold of it. It will probably end up going to Sweden now.