certjeff1
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Posts posted by certjeff1
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Most likely from Year One you got a factory correct harness not a universal or upgrade. Factory correct type do not always come with detailed instructions as they figure you will remove the old and follow exactly how the old was run. If you are going to take on this project get a shop manual and if available an assembly manual. If you want to find someone in your area to do the work find a restoration shop or someone that does complete rewiring regularly. I see so many vehicles thru my doors that went to general repair shops first that have so many things done wrong.
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Matt
Dad & I will be at OBF26 selling NOS Bendix gears, starter and generator brushes, Owen Dyneto starter and generator cores and other electrical items. Plus walking around with my shopping list.
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I need some switches for a 1966 olds 98. I will be at Hershey OBF26.
Headlight switch 1995139 or D1540 You cannot use Standard Motor Products #DS155 bezel does not screw in.
Wiper switch 1993607 or D6355
Turn Signal switch 911051 or D6203
Horn contacts 390751 or complete ring or steering wheel
Thanks
Jeff
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I am restoring a couple of brass era starter/generators and am in the need of some slotted brass screws. The thread size is 12-20 as best as I can figure. I know for sure on the 20 pitch but guessing on the size. 10-24 goes in a couple of threads but is loose & a 12-24 fits better but also just goes in a couple of threads. 1/4-20 does not even start. I do not want to take a chance of breaking the soft aluminum brush holders by changing the thread pitch to fit my screws
Thanks
Jeff.
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That goes under the F or field terminal.
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It is hard to see but it is under the console. With the tach removed look inside the mounting hole up towards the dash and you will see it.
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Joe
Thank you very much.
Jeff
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Does anyone have a wiring diagram that shows the factory tachometer?
My wiring diagram does not show how Dodge wired the tach. I have a yellow wire at the tach but cannot find any yellow wires going to the ballast resistor or ignition coil. I have an orange for the light and a black for ground.
Thanks
Jeff
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Thanks guys for the replies. Customer has a friend that is going to rebuild it for him.
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I have a customers car that needs either a replacement or his carburetor rebuilt. The problem with his appears to be the accelerator pump. The carburetor is a Carter WCD.
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Maok is right on the money about draining the 1 battery at a different rate then the other 7. My starter/generator test stand uses 2 6v batteries and I am always having to monitor them and charge them separately to keep them balanced. I would go with a single small motorcycle or lawn tractor battery with a separate charger.
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I will give these experiences on batteries. Watch the warranty period. Interstate Battery considers their 6v batteries commercial and do not come with anything more then a 12 month warranty. Whereas their 12v MT or MTP series carry several year warranty period that we are all used to getting. If you buy one towards the end of the driving period here in the north you could lose much of your warranty time with your vehicle sitting in storage.
Also there are not that many companies that make batteries anymore let alone ones that manufacture for sale in their own stores. You have a hand full and they simply put whichever store brand sticker on it to fit the order. The retail stores can change manufacturers at any time for any reason and we will never know it.
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I will keep my eyes open for the correct one.
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Sounds like battery condition stemming from the brake lights staying on is causing your alternator to produce high amounts of amperage to compensate and in turn your dash ammeter to register it with rpm change. I would definitely inspect the bulkhead connector too much amperage going through it will over time cause a meltdown. It would be a shame to go thru all this work and not at least inspect the connector. We see 6 to 8 Mopars a year with the bulkhead connector melted. Usually with the higher then stock alternator on them. People do not realize that for the ammeter to register every amp from the system has to go thru it, like a water meter, and to get to the ammeter all that amperage has to go thru the bulkhead connector as well. With it tacing towards the D and not the C I would agree it does not sound as if the ammeter is wired correctly.
Bloo you are correct 60 amp alternators were around but how many people special ordered the police car option to get the 60 amp alternator? Many of the application books from the era do not even list it.
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First off Chrysler did not ever make a 55 amp alternator. Standard without AC was 37 amp or 46 amp with AC for your application. They did not make a 60 amp until 1969. If you are still using your stock mechanical regulator with a mismatched alternator you will have problems. A mechanical regulator can only handle 2-3 amps of field current. Where a 60 amp is 4-6 and requires an electronic regulator. I know those numbers sound small but they mean a world of difference. Consumers have been asking for more amperage forever and suppliers do not always care about consequences as long as they are making money. They will just send it back to their supplier as defective.
All of that aside when you are checking your charging system with the issue you are having. With your voltmeter at either the battery or alternator reads steady while your dash ampmeter is going up with rpms and you have no electrical items running other then ignition you need to charge your battery. Voltage holding but amperage climbing tells me something needs power and the alternator is supplying it. And if you have no electrical items such as lights then the only thing that could be asking for power is the battery. If you want to keep your amperage from running high you need to charge the battery separately. Best way to determine if your battery is fully charged is to connect it to a charger along with your voltmeter. Using the lowest possible amperage setting start the charger while singing the happy birthday song. If your battery is fully charged to begin with your voltmeter will get to 14.5 before you finish the song. If it does not then it was not fully charged and should go until the voltmeter does read 14.5. If under the same conditions your voltage and amperage both climb excessively high with rpms you could be in a full field mode and I would check your field wire to make sure it is not melted to your power output wire or to any other wire that is powered. Or you have damaged your regulator by using it with a mismatched alternator.
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I looked thru my parts and don't have 1107908.I do have 1107953. There are some listings that say they are interchangeable. The difference is the 1107908 is a high torque and the 1107953 is a low torque. I would not interchange them without replacing the field coils with high torque. The mounting housings are different internally the position of the starter casing bolts are different making them noninterchangeable between units. There are 3 reasons a starter mounting housing breaks. Engine backfires during cranking, starter operated while engine is running and a bent armature shaft.
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You are both quite welcome
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Best guess is the starter or switch are burned.
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Andre
According to my info it is a delco #37832. To be sure what is the over all length of the drive and what is the outside diameter of the gear? Measuring in MM is fine.
Jeff
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I have many of the drive that you need for this starter. I have over 1000 NOS drives in stock plus parts to rebuild one if I don't have one.
Jeff
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I have plenty of those starter drives NOS.
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Whenever there is a sealed version available that is what we have always used.
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Alex
According to my Bendix catalog you need the R11XV. The difference is the Bendix you need will have a larger diameter counterweight then the R11X. I do have several of the R11XV. Same pricing.
Jeff
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They used to sell a tool that would take the place of the top wishbone motor mount. That would screw in to pull the engine forward and then hold it so you could get to the three by the firewall. Thexton P/N419.
Starter problem Buick super 1949
in Buick - Post War
Posted
If the piece that is melting is the one circled in your third picture it is not plastic it is copper. Melting copper can be caused by poor system voltage. There is something wrong with your car causing this. Simply changing to a different starter will not fix your melting movable contact disc it will continue to happen. Since your car has been changed to 12v you can get a 12v solenoid for a 1953 Buick along with a the plunger assembly and install it on your existing starter. And then you need to run some voltage drop tests, amperage draw tests.