certjeff1

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Posts posted by certjeff1


  1. This is a 6v negative ground system with the push button grounding to complete the circuit. The difference between the standard Ford solenoid and the Lincoln is the mounting base. The Lincoln has a 3 9/16" center to center. A standard Ford is about 2 1/4". 

    DSC05157.JPG


  2. Well knowing all that history. That generator was used starting in 1940 and was rated at 35A. The passenger car for 1937 was GBW4803A or C which was 22A. There charge curves are different. With all the added electrical items it makes sense that they went with the later unit. The regulator is Delco Remy most likely from a Chevy with 1118201 part number. Homemade wiring harnesses always gives me cause for concern when trying to troubleshoot in my shop. 


  3. Not only do you have the diode setup but that is a Delco Remy Regulator. Somebody has spent quite some time and money previously trying to fix the charging issue. Since you just bought the car I would start with removing the generator and regulator and having both items bench tested as a set.

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  4. I make kits for most applications, but am currently out of stock on the bracket pieces needed to make the correct setup you need. I will have them in later this month to early February. Wherever you get your kit I recommend that you get the CS130 type Delco and not the 10SI type Delco alternator. The CS130 type turns on at lower rpms and gives better low rpm output then the 10SI type. This is important since you are adding an electric fan and you have a low idle speed car. Fewer people sell the CS130 do to their higher cost but there is a big difference in their charge ability over the 10SI.


  5. Trini everything you mention as possible problems are true especially on old starters. Whether it is a solenoid problem or an internal starter motor problem.  If you are smacking the motor and not the solenoid how can you say is a solenoid problem and vice versa. You are not eliminating the wiring or solenoid activation, button or ignition switch. One of the most infamous jobs we got our hands on was a 1978 Corvette that had 9 starters from 3 different shops installed on it. Each one was replaced to fix the original problem. All 3 shops were smacking the starter as a test. We got the car here used our remote start button bypassing the system and made the starter work every time. After doing some voltage drop tests we found several crusty connections in both the positive and negative circuits causing the issue. If you want to smack the starter to try and get one more start to get your vehicle home rather then have it towed by some unknown tow service I get it. But don't make that your best most accurate test. 

     

    M-MMan what you had with your Lincoln does not surprise me as Dyneto did a similar thing with their starter/generator combination units made for 1915 model cars such as Packard and Franklin. If you take power away from the starter field coils you lose the ability to charge even though  all 6 coils, 3 starter and 3 charge, are independent of each other. 

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  6. As a 3rd generation starter rebuilder with 36 years experience nothing makes me cringe more than the smack the starter with the hammer diagnostics. I will give you that extremely worn brushes or worn contacts in the switch as a possible issue depending upon where you smack the starter. But a dead spot in the armature cannot not and will not ever be picked up using this method of diagnostics. Remember the armature is suspended at each end by bushings and has the tension of brush springs to overcome so the amount of force you will need to strike the starter to create a shock wave to effect a dead spot or move the armature ever so slightly off the dead spot is off the charts. If you have a dead spot when the starter is cranking it will lope, meaning it will slow down and then speed up each time any of the 4 brushes hits the dead spot. Whenever I hold a class at my shop I show people what dead spots look like and how starters act with them. Usually they never smack a starter again. 

     

    If your local shop has gone thru the starter and solenoid I would use a remote start button and separate battery and bypass the system and see if it does or does not work. If it does work then you can go after wiring issues. DO NOT use 12v to test these starters as they have a very unique solenoid and are very expensive on the NOS market. If it does not work and you take it back you will sound more knowledgeable about the system and it will give them less of an argument then if you tell them you simply smacked the starter. 


  7. My experience is the vast majority of 6v conversions are do to slow cranking. I always ask the customer to trust me that I can fix the issue without converting to 12v or simply installing an 8v battery. Both of which can come with negative side effects. Things that I have found are wrong size cables as has been said earlier. Usually store bought premade 2ga cables in the bubble pack. 6v needs 2/0 or larger. The other issue with these cables are they usually use steel ring terminals and not copper. I tell people to take a magnet when cable shopping if either the clamp or ring stick to the magnet don't buy it.  You should do the same if you have cables custom made. Grounds are always lacking on classic cars even from the factory. Electricity is a learning process even for the engineers. Look at modern cars and all of the grounds they use. So adding small battery to body or main battery to frame or block is always good. In some cases cable location as has been mentioned has improved or solved issues. We recently had a 61 Corvette with slow crank when hot. We moved the ground from the frame to the starter mounting bolt and the issue was solved. Within the starter some issues are worn bushings and thrust washers. Causing the armature to not run true. Also within the starter on fresh rebuilds can be brushes that have the wrong copper to carbon ratio. 12v brushes use more copper then carbon. 6v usually are the other way. And 12v brushes in most cases are similar in size and mount and to save money a rebuilder that does not see many 6v starters will use what they have rather then invest for 1 sale the right part. Brushes that have copper wire leads like Ford and Autolite used if the lead on the brush is undersized it can cause issues. Ford used the same brush in both 6v and 12v but the ones 6v ones used the larger lead. The ones made today use the smaller gauge size. The last cause I have found is that the regulator has not been properly set and is undercharging the battery. 6v needs to charge at least 7.0v if not slightly higher based on your driving. Meaning slow speed, short trips need higher. Longer trip higher speed lower end.

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  8. Looking at a wiring diagram the brake light switch sends power to the turn signal switch and then out to the brake lights. Almost all manufacturers do it this way. It keeps the front turn lights separate so they don't turn one when the brakes are applied. I would say turn signal switch.

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  9. Ok so the part that melts is the plastic insulator for the movable contact. Since the car has been converted to 12v I would leave the original solenoid alone. Get a solenoid for a 1953-1956 Buick along with the plunger and linkage. This will be a 12v setup and they are more readily available then the solenoid you are currently using. Once you get that then you can run tests to see what is causing the problem.


  10. Matt is absolutely right you have to go looking for the cause. Most 6v cars get converted do to complaints of poor or slow cranking speeds. Not all of these problems are the starters fault nor are they the fault of 6v electrical systems. A great many are do to other issues in the system, like cables as an example. The slow cranking speed gets fixed while the cause gets masked by the 12v conversion. It isn't until months or even years or ownership change that the real cause gets fixed. Whatever you decide to do with the starter is up to you. But you need to figure out what is causing your problem.

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  11. If the piece that is melting is the one circled in your third picture it is not plastic it is copper. Melting copper can be caused by poor system voltage. There is something wrong with your car causing this. Simply changing to a different starter will not fix your melting movable contact disc it will continue to happen. Since your car has been changed to 12v you can get a 12v solenoid for a 1953 Buick along with a the plunger assembly and install it on your existing starter. And then you need to run some voltage drop tests, amperage draw tests.

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    • Thanks 1

  12. Most likely from Year One you got a factory correct harness not a universal or upgrade. Factory correct type do not always come with detailed instructions as they figure you will remove the old and follow exactly how the old was run. If you are going to take on this project get a shop manual and if available an assembly manual. If you want to find someone in your area to do the work find a restoration shop or someone that does complete rewiring regularly. I see so many vehicles thru my doors that went to general repair shops first that have so many things done wrong. 


  13. I need some switches for a 1966 olds 98. I will be at Hershey OBF26.

     

    Headlight switch 1995139 or D1540 You cannot use Standard Motor Products #DS155 bezel does not screw in.

    Wiper switch 1993607 or D6355

    Turn Signal switch 911051 or D6203

    Horn contacts 390751 or complete ring or steering wheel

     

    Thanks

    Jeff


  14. I am restoring a couple of brass era starter/generators and am in the need of some slotted brass screws. The thread size is 12-20 as best as I can figure. I know for sure on the 20 pitch but guessing on the size. 10-24 goes in a couple of threads but is loose & a 12-24 fits better but also just goes in a couple of threads. 1/4-20 does not even start. I do not want to take a chance of breaking the soft aluminum brush holders by changing the thread pitch to fit my screws

     

    Thanks

    Jeff.