1940Super

Decided while it's out I'll look at the steering box. If I remember correctly there was 1 or 1 inches of play in the steering, that may be corrected by making adjustments? There wasn't any lubricant except some grease in the steering box. The seal has failed and the lubricant has leaked out?? The manual doesn't actually specify what to fill it with but I have been told Penrite oils have a steering box oil for vintage car. Any other recommendations? Is it a differecult job to replace the seal?

No I don't, I'm not familiar with early 30s models, I am reading from a book on all Buicks models from 1903. Also says engine number is on crankcase. I quote the description of the 68 model "The 30-68 5 passenger 2 door coup was a 'victoria' style model. It had dual individual seats up front and a 3 passenger rear bench seat. There was a large window in each door and rather large D-shape windows behind the upper door openings. This model was usually delivered in LaTorquet Green with black on the upper body and fenders. Prize fighter Jack Dempsey had one" 10216 were produced. Id say this description fits your car.

Beautiful car, pity about the motor. Is there a serial number on the right side of frame behind front fender opening?

The front suspension was ready to bolt on a year ago but I'm holding off as I now suspect the shock damper and the brake backing plate arn't the right paint finish. I will order a couple of engineering books from BHA and hopefully they will confirm. I had the shocks rebuilt but I'm not happy about the welds over the arms on spline that they did. Would that be a deduction if it were to be judged? The other thing not authentic to a series 50 is the lower control arm A frame. It has the threaded bushes instead of the fabric ones. I drilled out the rivets and replaced with them with bolts because I couldn't see any way of getting the new rubber bumper and the inner shaft seals in place without pulling it apart. According to master parts list the whole frame would just be replaced. Unless I found NORS control arms i guess I will just have to leave it be.

I guess mice could fit, interesting, might do a little research into this

I'm afraid it isn't the same. I have the 120 plastic replacement from Bobs Auto and it doesn't match up correctly for the 110 speedo...

Yes, last registered in Mass in 1999. Imported to Australia in 2006(not by me). Unless these animals you speak of are smaller enough to fit through 3/4 inch holes I dont know how it could have been put there

Very kind of you, knowing US shipping rates it would me much more then $5. Are you talking about the outer face with the numbers though? Its the inner ivory plastic replacement I need

Where I am up to, frame is painted and ready for reassembly of components. The engine stand, uni-strut channel and pipe were a quick way of putting together a makeshift rotisserie A couple of enclosed areas of the frame were rusted enough for a screw driver to go straight through the steel. It had a couple of inches of dirt inside. I opened it right up to clear out all the dirt and rust and found what i think was balls of wool also stuffed inside. I assume it was for sound deadening so i put it back. Also made repairs to both outer No 2 body mounts due to extensive rust

As you can see the everything under the hood was really neglected. The original cloth wiring really shot. The undercarriage very rusty, I'm assuming from the road salts.

I know the speedometer is from a later model and I know someone who has a 110 speedo but i needs a new plastic dial. They must be available because I see other restored 1940 models with them but I cant find who sell them. I bought the instrument face set from Bob's for the other instruments but the 120 face isnt any good for 110. Any suggestions?

Hello all, I'm 6 years into a body off half restoration of a series 50 4 door sedan. When I say half restoration I mean at this present time I wont be restoring the body or interior other then the body floor and dash. As you can see from the photos paint is in good enough condition for me to leave as is for now and so is the upholstery. It was originally ment to be just an engine recondition but the state of the engine bay was so filthy I decided to clean it up and repaint and then that lead to working on the suspension, brakes, rear end to the point where I ended to taking the body off to clean, repair and repaint the entire frame. My goal for the end results is to have everything mechanical and electrical completely restored to original factory specifications(as best I can). I thought I'd share the restoration from here so that my experience may help others with their restoration project and I'm hoping there are things I can learn from you. Thanks, Matt. The car as i bought it in 2009