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Everything posted by 1940Super

  1. https://blackhawksupply.com/collections/plumbing-brass-fittings-double-compression
  2. Ken that document you created is amazing for detail. I look through the whole thing and picked up other little details too. When I get time I'll add my own detail notes to it and send it back to you. As for the bracket at the front muffler its more like what the Shop Manual shows as the 40s and 60s series. I haven't had any luck trying to find NOS brackets except for the tail pipe so it's something I'm going to have to make myself. Yes please send me photos of the series 51. Many thanks
  3. Thank you Ken, I simply welded up a rectangular frame and attached lifting eyelets to it. Then clamped unistrut to the frame and bolted to an engine leveler to adjust the angle when lining up with the spline. Worked out well. Next thing to work on is fitting the new brass fittings on the oil lines i had you send over and then the exhaust. I remember you saying you documented the exahust brackets on that chassis you bought. Could you send some photos of the front brackets please Matt
  4. I have a new exhaust system to install but I'm missing some of the original brackets front of the muffler. In the workshop manual it shows the series 50 having a long single sided bracket but then the master parts book says the 50 series has a clamping from both sides similar to the rear. I'm thinking the workshop manual is correct but can anybody confirm? @kgreen I hope you can assist here as your car should have the same brackets. From workshop manual. Circled in blue is the long bracket and another bracket at the front that I am also missing. master parts book pictor
  5. 6 months passed without making any progress on car due to work commitments. Last weekend the engine was reunited with the frame. I decided to lift it all assembled including gearbox except for removing the generator and starter for anchor points. Minus the weight of the frame and chains the weight was about 304kg(670lbs).
  6. I agree that the size used for 1941 instrument panels are 3/8" or close to it. I can see that clearly in Matt's picture. I mentioned the size of the swirls on my panels are close to 7/16" which is a standard size. For example Buick used that size for bolts on cylinder head, connecting rods, lower control arm shaft, shock absorber to axel. I managed to get a couple of good shots of my 1940 panel next to a ruler. Looks to me each swirl is around 5.75mm radius. Diameter being 11.5mm. 7/16" converted to mm is 11.1125. If the emery brushes were exactly 7/
  7. I tried to look for the size on the first one, could you point out where it says 1/8. The 2nd definitely looks too big.
  8. The inner rings of what is left of the engine turning on my panels are not visible to naked eye, as demonstrated at the beginning of this thread. I'd be guessing where the center is
  9. I measured mine, I think it's closer to 7/16". As Matt said it's difficult to measure with the overlap but placed drill bits over the circle to see which was the closest.
  10. The 2nd link looks better. It's good that they turning is staggered diagonally like the original. I think adding a tinted yellow laquer (said to have been done by Buick) over the top of the vinyl and it could look promising. Shipping my panels to the US to have them professionly done is too costly for me, I was going to simply clean and polish them but I'm likely to buy one of these rolls now and see how it goes.
  11. That makes sense with the firewall and would explain the difference in the B & W photographs. Was the same done to the fenders? They sprayed the whole fender the body colour and then only buffed the outside?
  12. I found some information in relation to shimming body mounts in convertibles which may be useful to you: "Convertible models are to be shimmed using hard shims except for #6 and #7 center body bolts which use the closed car soft body shims. When shimming, the top should be loosened and when lowering the top , care should be taken to see that the top pilots of the windshield with no excessive strain." My 40 super has 22 mounting locations. Between the body and frame was a square piece of rubber that was about half an inch thick and soft. Under the frame was a thicker and harder
  13. Hi Ken, I haven't been able to find any documentation on this. From 1940 production photos this is my observation: Vertical section of firewall appears to be a different colour from both the chassis and body colour. This extends to the angled section were the pedals are. I can't tell what the colour is. The flat section on top is same as body colour. Radiator housing same colour as firewall. Stoneshield and under fenders appears same as colour body. The body floor was sprayed with a sound insulation paint (this is documented but it's not clear to me if they ar
  14. You can buy a reproduction copy of 1940 buick facts from BHA which is what I did. The book must have been printed after the seamless filters started to be used.
  15. In assembly line production photos of early 40 and 41 Buicks it can be seen when there was a seem the filter was black and when there was no seem it was aluminium. It's possible the replacement filters were black
  16. I placed an order in December a didn't hear anything. Same thing about the email bouncing back but I managed to get in contact with David Landow and the order was shipped DLandow@LandowCo.com
  17. You own a copy of 1940 service bulletin? See page 139
  18. The correct colour is aluminium paint. As stated in "Buick Facts 1940" and "1940 Buick Parts and Service Bulletin" The first filters were black but it's unlikely you'd have one of them as many were replaced due to leaking at a bottom seam. The seam was eliminated in the second edition of filters.
  19. Is there a misconception of calling it "engine turning"? The term derives from the Rose Engine machine or that it started off on the engine cowls of aeroplanes? Anyone heard the term "spottng" before? I hadn't until I saw this webpage: https://www.circuitousroot.com/artifice/machine-shop/surface-finishing/engine-turning-vs-spotting/index.html
  20. I believe it is leather, I have it on my car but it's deteriorated so I am going to replace it with rubber tube and paint brown. As others have already said main function stop metal hitting metal during operation of lever.
  21. Found these 1940 photographs of an Australian bodied Buick. I wonder if they done locally or imported. I can see its s different radio panel
  22. Not that Doug probably told you but when he says "imprint", does that include grooves being formed into the metal surface. With my own panel I could not see what looks like to be grooves scratched into the surface by eye, it was only by zooming in on the photo I took that they became apparent. I'm thinking of borrowing or buying a dial test indicator to run across the surface.
  23. I haven't seen the details of it so I'll check it out
  24. Yes that's possible. Or at some point somebody was providing replacement decals. Once the lacquer protection deteriorated the bare metal rust quickly and as I demonstrated, it doesn't take much sanding for the finely machined swirls to be removed before the rust is.
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