1906 lozier

Hans1965; two men that I can think of right off hand, Ransom Eli Olds, started Oldsmobile then went on the start REO in 1904, Henry Leland started Cadillac then went on the start Lincoln

Edinmass, I recognize the vintage garage. had my Springfield P1 there a few years ago at a service seminar for PMC's. I have also been to a building in upstate New York that had as many bentleys that you have pictured , in fact they were ALL blower Bentley's (8) Harold III

Alsfarms; first off, why would you want to raise compression. The original engineers did extensive development before the cars were ever put on the road. second, I have seen more than one brass era Buick engine blow the cylinders right off of the block from doing this same thing. and they are not Tee head engines. I have a customer that did exactly what you are asking about on a 1912 Pullman and he blew the jugs off of it from only adding 1/4 inch to the top of the pistons on a 4.5 inch bore. Don't do it please. you will not see a difference in performance, and if you do add compression and it blows, you will have a very expensive repair bill.

me too; in fact we bought a '15 Packard from him. when we restored it and took it to the centennial of Packard, we were rewarded with people's choice out of 1100 cars!!

55-60 psi

RansomEli, have you looked at the REO 1 and2 cylinder website for that info? I am the guy that rebuilds radiators and make other parts for these cars, if you look me up there you can get all the info from there or do a private email and we can talk. Harold III https://groups.io/g/EarlyREO/topics

not lozier

BlueDevil, I live about 30 miles north of there. If you would like me to look at the car I would be more than willing to do it. I just need a few bites of info from you. Harold III

alsfarms, case made cars from '11 to '26 we currently have a '12 '13 and a '14 and a ton of parts that we are looking to sell if anybody is interested. black car is the '12 and white car is the '13 Harold III

I agree to it being a Overland. here is a picture of our '13 Case 40 no way the same car Harold III

just remove the eight nuts holding on the hub, then pull hub/axle out, then remove the two nuts holding the wheel on to the stub. Harold III

I use engine assembly lube for my cables. Harold

northway, possibly Oakland engine era about 1915

Rolls Royce mid fifty's

The air pump on the left side of the engine is for only pumping up the tires. the fuel tank pressure is maintained by the pump driven off of the cam shaft on the right side of the engine. I have restored two of these engines for other people and have first hand knowledge . fortunately there is a picture to verify this. if you look just behind the carb, there is a copper line that bends back towards the firewall. that is the air pump for the fuel tank. Harold III

that was John Rielly's car. his son has it now. I have toured with that car and it is a going machine. when I restored my 13 phaeton he was most helpful in all of the small details in the engine compartment. He even had the Cadillac logo remade for the back left corner of the top and I was privileged to have gotten one and installed it on my car. great car. Harold III

as Layden B say's, way, way, more lamps than cars. must have made ten times as many lamps as cars. go to any swap meet and there are numerous Cadillac lamps for sale. Harold III

o.k. back to the top. the sale fell thru.

phone 2oh-six 60 one nine 2 two 9

thank you edinmass. looks like a fun job. Harold III seattle

John, I did put it under technical also, i appreciate the heads up. I am new to this forum and can use any help to navigate it.. edinmass, are you telling me to pull the diff cover and the seal is inside of there?

well, I measured the inner race o.d. and it is .100 thou bigger than inside diameter where the hub of the driving axle goes, so it will not fit though there. Now, I am assuming that both races are the same, they look it, and as far as I can read the part numbers, they too are the same. hard to read inside the hub. I appreciate your reply. i don't want to just start beating the race out and then ruin something. As my Grandpa used to say, these are not shelf items any more. Harold III seattle

We have a 29 Cadillac with wire wheels and had an oil leak in the rear brake drum. Upon disassembly it was found that the bearings and races are not in good shape. I can remove the race from the axle side of the drum, but it looks like you have to pull the hub apart to get to the outboard race. Has anybody done this and if so, how did you get the hub apart. there is nothing in the service sheets or owners manual that covers this process.. look forward to your reply's. Harold III Seattle

We have a 29 Cadillac with wire wheels and had an oil leak in the rear brake drum. Upon disassembly it was found that the bearings and races are not in good shape. I can remove the race from the axle side of the drum, but it looks like you have to pull the hub apart to get to the outboard race. Has anybody done this and if so, how did you get the hub apart. there is nothing in the service sheets or owners manual that covers this process.. look forward to your reply's. Harold III Seattle

will except reasonable offers, don't want to have to send it off to china to be made into something else. really would like it to stay in the states. these are 120 inch wheel base, would look really cool as a car!! harold III