Maui Blue

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About Maui Blue

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    Sacramento, CA

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  1. Thank you for the responses. I appreciate it.
  2. I've searched all over but I haven't been able to find the recommended service / replacement interval for the timing chain in my 1990 Reatta. I know the car received both the 30k and 100k service at the dealer but I haven't been able to find out just what the service elements are and whether or not they included replacement of the timing chain. Thanks for any assistance. .
  3. Hello, Looking for the horn button that goes on the right in blue for 1990 Reatta. I guess the 1991 was the same? I might consider another color if they are paintable and the correct paint is available. I also have some parts to trade if you need something in particular. Thanks
  4. This part fell to the ground while I was removing the fuel filter from my 1990 Reatta. Does anyone know where it might go? Does it have anything to do with the fuel filter bracket? Thanks
  5. OK, it's dark out right now so I went out and wiggled some wires. No help. I happen to have an old headlight laying around so I decided to swap one out. When I changed out the driver side headlight that one worked and both doors go up and down now. The passenger side is still out and I only had one spare. As fate would have it I installed the other light from that spare pair into a friends car on Sunday because one of her low beams had stopped working! I'm hoping I can find another spare light somewhere in my parts junk to install on the other side. I'm hoping that will do the trick. Otherwise I will come back to this page and try out the other suggestions. I'll let you know either way. Thanks for all the help!!! I really appreciate it. Edited to add follow up... Once I replaced both headlights everything worked normally again. Lights work doors work.
  6. Thanks for the quick reply. I'll definitely go check that. Would a broken wire on one headlight cause low beams on BOTH headlights not to work? Or if one of the headlights is bad?
  7. Hello folks, I'm hoping I can get some help on an odd headlight malfunction that just cropped up on my 1990 Reatta. In short, both headlight doors go up normally when the dash switch is pushed but they don't come down when headlights are turned off. At the same time, when the doors go up the headlights do not come on, however I discovered I will get high beams when the high beam lever is activated. Also, if it helps, the headlight "on" indicator in the dash headlight switch assembly does come on when the switch is on. No other anomalies noted. So far I have checked the headlight breaker in the driver's side fuse box. It reads as a dead short when removed, which I assume is correct. I also checked all the fuses on the drivers side fuse box just to cover all the bases. All good. I have also checked the two fuses in the under-hood Relay Center. They both look good. I understand there is a headlight relay somewhere but it's not shown on the label in the Relay Center, and I don't think it is one of the relays on the firewall so I'm not sure where it is. If I can find it, is it possible to swap it with another identical relay from another circuit on the car just to test it out? Thanks for any quick assistance. I'd rather not drive home tonight with the high beams on.
  8. Here is what I hope is the last update to this issue. Based on all the best evidence and advice I purchased both the cam position sensor and the interrupter magnet. I removed the sensor (after removing the water pump pulley) and examined the interrupter magnet. (Incredibly, it was viewable through the hole without rotation. What are the odds!) The magnet looked a bit dirty but seemed to be intact. I replaced the position sensor with the new one and crossed my fingers. No luck. The check engine light returned almost immediately. Since I was certain that my problem was one of the two items I purchased I decided to have a closer look at the magnet. I did the disassembly again and had to rotate the crankshaft a bit to find it. Not as difficult as I thought it might be. I did some cleaning of the interrupter to make sure the magnet really was still inside the plastic cap since my initial inspection was done by reflecting a flashlight beam off the inspection mirror I was using. It all looked to be in excellent condition so I reassembled and regrouped. (I reused the original sensor since the connector locking stub snapped off when I disassembled it. Bummer!) I was lost for what else to do so I started semi-randomly checking things under the hood. I checked again for any cracked or broken hoses and various connectors. I pulled the coil pack from the ICM and noted that one of the connectors seemed a bit loose. I may have pulled it loose while separating them? I crimped all the connections a bit and reassembled. From there I decided to inspect the IAC (Idle Air Control) valve. I've done this on other 80's era GM cars and thought it probably needed cleaning anyway. When I removed it I found that it was very dirty and caked with residue as was the orifice in the throttle body. I doubt that it had ever been replaced in it's 130K mile life. I didn't have a replacement as I was doing the repair at a friends house out in the boonies on Sunday (Veteran's Day). I used spray throttle body cleaner, and some light scraping on the IAC cone, to do the cleaning. See before and after pics below. As a side note, I wore a paper filter mask while doing all this due to the very high particulate count (smoke) in the air due to the tragic Camp Fire that leveled Paradise, CA which is a few hours away by car. After completing the items above I decided to give it a test drive to check it out. I had no confidence that anything would change since I didn't really do anything that seemed related to the issue according to the error code and the research I had had done. I was surprised to find that the light did not return. Since then I have driven the car about 2 hours with no recurrence. At this point I am cautiously optimistic. So whether it was the coil to ICM connections, or the dirty IAC / orifice, I have no idea. But I am recording it here in case it might help others with the same problem.
  9. Well, I finally got the E041c code. Previously it had only appeared as a history code. It was out of shear frustration that while sitting in the car getting ready to go home I entered the diagnostics with the engine running. Nowhere is there any documentation in the manual or on the web that I have ever seen that states anything other than putting it in the "ON" position. What a waste of time! The code showed up immediately with no other codes reported. But it does seem to confirm that the flashing 41 code was correct in that the current code is indeed 041. (The P0446 code was pulled using an OBD1 scanner by O'Rielly's Auto Parts) So now the process begins... I will start by inspecting the wires, connector and sensor. Hopefully that will identify the problem. If not, I am curious about the magnet procedure. It seems straightforward but I do have a question. How does one bring the magnet into view through the hole? I have no idea how to turn the engine or to identify the Top Dead Center position.
  10. I replaced the gas cap today hoping for a cheap fix. No luck as the Service Engine Soon light just came on again. It was still on when I turned off the engine (it's intermittent) so I thought this would be a good time to run codes again. There are NO current codes! Just history codes. Very frustrating. It is possible that the P0446 code is for low Freon as suggested. I had been thinking about topping it off since the cooling efficiency seemed to be lacking recently. According to the reference material this does not set the SES light so the problem must be elsewhere. The interesting thing about the SES light flashing 41 is that I had NOT shorted the ALDL pins and the connector cover is in place. I was running the on-board diags as described and noted the flashing. It flashes 12 three times then the 41 code 3 times and then repeats 12 three times, which is familiar since I have used the paperclip method and counted flashes in other older GM cars. It does this repetitively as long as I am in the diag mode.
  11. Dang it! I completely forgot to specify. I will add it to the signature line, but for now it is a 1990.
  12. I guess I included too much detail in the original post... Can anyone explain the Service Engine Soon light flashing code 41 and what it might indicate? Also, I took the car to O'Rielly's Auto Parts store. They performed a free check using an OBD1 code reader. It returned a code of P0446. As I understand it that could point to several different issues. Does anyone have any experience with this code and what the most likely problems might be? Thanks.
  13. Well, I got the harmonic balancer problem sorted out. Onto the next... I am having an issue with the Service Engine Soon light. It comes and goes intermittently. I performed the dashboard check but all the codes were followed by the H (indicating a history problem that has been cleared). There were a few codes but they are difficult to interpret since some of the LED segments are confusing. Some are off, some are dim and some are bright. No idea what that means. One of the history codes is E041H. It is interesting to note that the check engine light also flashes the 41 code like some other GM cars but I found no mention of it anywhere here. Should I assume the 041H indicates an old issue. If so, what does the Service Engine Soon light flashing 41 tell me? 041 seems to be a common problem with the cam sensor magnet but from my reading it should be a constant light, not intermittent. Would that indicate some problem other than the cam sensor magnet? I'm overdue for California smog check. Now that it is running right (after the harmonic balancer replacement) I need to jump on this next. All assistance very much appreciated. Thanks
  14. OK, here is an update... I rented the AC clutch removal and adjustment tool, and bought an AC bypass belt just in case. One of the main reasons for believing it was the AC clutch was the fact that the noise only occurred when the AC was OFF and stopped when the AC was on. I believed this was a damaged or warped AC clutch plate, but on the 1 hour to my friends place the symptoms changed and the noise was audible whether the AC was on or off. Now it seemed to be RPM dependent. More RPM's less noise. Also the noise went away when I shifted into neutral at traffic lights. Before starting on the AC clutch I had my mechanic friend have a look. He was as baffled by the symptoms as I. We were unable to find any components in the belt path that had any excessive play or wobble, and we could not localize the noise even with a mechanics stethoscope. It wasn't until he used his phone camera to look at areas we couldn't see well that he discovered some significant separation of the rubber isolation material on the harmonic balancer. (See pic) So tonight I ordered the part and will return to his place (where I left the car since I didn't feel it wise to drive it another hour back home) next Saturday when we will replace the part. Fingers crossed! p.s. 125K California miles on the odometer.